Part 2: Help us build a Buck Knives 110

Which options?

  • Thumb Disk

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • NO Thumb Disk

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Finger Grooves

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • NO Finger Grooves

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
I can kinda already see where this one is going, and like Mr. Martin, I think you may wind up with a product that doesn't really satisfy anyone. Just a thought here, and it may be too late, but why not run two separate polls for two separate knives. Run one poll in the Buck forum for those that are die hard traditional Buck fans and make that one first in honor of their long support. Then run a separate poll in the General section that would open it up to more diverse thinking and modern responses. That one could be made second. You may then be able to please both dynamics, as long as the two sides had the understanding that cross voting would ruin the end product. Just a thought.
 
A 110 is easy to open one handed. A thumb disk, or thumb stud is not needed, and I fear would just get in the way. I voted no thumb disk. I don't care either way on the finger grooves. Without them is fine, with them would be fine also.

O.B.
 
no disk, no grooves

With these options, I'd vote stag or elk handles and stainless or nickel silver pins too if thats an option
 
I voted for disc and grooves, mostly because I found the idea of doing something new with the 110 attractive. Ultimately, I am more of a traditionalist and I like a more traditional 110, but the idea of a unique 110 is really interesting.

I voted for nickel silver on the first poll, but now there is a part of me that wishes this had gone all the way in a less traditional mold: S90V, stonewash, Aluminum bolsters, carbon fiber scales, no notch, pocket clip, disc, and grooves. That would be a modern 110, which is wonderful in a brain breaking kind of way (though I prefer clip point all the way).

Nickel silver with no clip and no disc would make for a real pretty 110, but a more traditional one. I think it is important to make sure that all the parts will work together. If there is no clip I hope there is also no disc.
 
Instead of the thumbdisk, for something different and ambidextrous. I'd like to see a 110 with a small fuller on both sides of the blade instead of a nail Nick.
 
I like the thumb disc but like it without, also. I can do the Buck Drop to open it with one hand if need be. The finger grooves are not my favorite, but I can live with them. I have large hands and finger groves and I do not get along, most of the time, as I want room for my fingers to find their own places.

The one thing I want is no more 420HC. I want better steel, like S30V, which is better than BG-42 (but I can live with it). I prefer S30V or S35VN to D2. HOWEVER, CTS-XHP, a stainless D2 would be awesome.
 
I voted no disk and yes to the finger grooves.
This is shaping up to look a lot like the custom shop 110 I would buy if I could, so as of now I'm pretty stoked.

Obviously I'm not the one forking over the cash to fund this project, but it seems like it would be worth it to add a smaller run of modern 110s to your order. There is obviously a desire for a completely modern 110, and I would be shocked if after all this was said and done that it didn't sell out.
Regardless, I appreciate your interest in putting together a "dream" Buck for us forum folk. Your effort and dedication to the project shouldn't go unnoticed.
 
Well well well, what do we have here? Renditions! And, stonewash is not looking great at all. And the thumb disk looks quite good in my opinion. Feast your eyes!








 
As far as thumb disks go it looks ok. I would prefer no disk cause I don't like anything sticking out to interfere with the cut and to collect stuff. Just my opinion. How about a Flat Grind instead of the Hollow, just a thought. 😎
 
Wow! These renderings help a lot. I do not like the stonewash after seeing it(even though I voted for it). If the blue is that bright for the micarta, I would love it! I like the finger grooves, not so much the thumbdisk but could live with it. Great work so far!
 
Top one would definitely get my vote. That would be great without the thumb disk too.
 
stonewash, yuk. I picked drop point, but clip looks really good with finger grooves and disk. Blue looks nice, so does carbon fiber.
 
So... how much help in opening the knife is the disk really going to be?

I'm not typing this simply because I don't want a disk. I'm thinking about how useful it might actually be. Think about the geometry of the back-spring on the 110. The blade shape at the pivot is made so that the back-spring keeps the blade closed. There's more tension in the beginning motion of opening the blade than the rest of the path. Is the disk going to be big enough to actually give you a place for your thump to catch and open without being to big to interfere with cutting tasks?

Most of the disks I've seen and handled have been on liner locks or frame locks. Neither of these types have much tension holding the blade closed. It doesn't take much to get them to open. Some even have bearings to facilitate a smoother, faster opening.

A thumb stud I can understand because it can be located virtually anywhere on the blade with a left-hand or right-hand bias, and you can remove it without any issue.

Perhaps the disk could give a much better parking place for your thumb in lieu of jimping when you need to really push the blade through something? But then of course, we're limited by the geometry of the blade. Hollow grinds are great cutters, but not the best slicers after all.

I think a view from the top, or at least the dimension of the disk should be provided so we can get a feel for how intrusive or useful it might really be.

Something more to think about...
 
MT_Pokt said:
Most of the disks I've seen and handled have been on liner locks or frame locks. Neither of these types have much tension holding the blade closed. It doesn't take much to get them to open. Some even have bearings to facilitate a smoother, faster opening.
Click to expand...

Cold steels sometimes use a thumb disk on their Tri-ad lock, which operates similar to a back lock. I think it'd be better if the disk was closer to the pivot though.
 
MT_Pokt said:
So... how much help in opening the knife is the disk really going to be?

I'm not typing this simply because I don't want a disk. I'm thinking about how useful it might actually be. Think about the geometry of the back-spring on the 110. The blade shape at the pivot is made so that the back-spring keeps the blade closed. There's more tension in the beginning motion of opening the blade than the rest of the path. Is the disk going to be big enough to actually give you a place for your thump to catch and open without being to big to interfere with cutting tasks?

Most of the disks I've seen and handled have been on liner locks or frame locks. Neither of these types have much tension holding the blade closed. It doesn't take much to get them to open. Some even have bearings to facilitate a smoother, faster opening.

A thumb stud I can understand because it can be located virtually anywhere on the blade with a left-hand or right-hand bias, and you can remove it without any issue.

Perhaps the disk could give a much better parking place for your thumb in lieu of jimping when you need to really push the blade through something? But then of course, we're limited by the geometry of the blade. Hollow grinds are great cutters, but not the best slicers after all.

I think a view from the top, or at least the dimension of the disk should be provided so we can get a feel for how intrusive or useful it might really be.

Something more to think about...
Click to expand...

Completely agree with and understand this line of thought. Truthfully, until I have a sample in my hand from Buck, we really won't know the answer! And when I have that sample, I'll most likely do a video and definitely take some pictures.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top