Pics of customized production knives

Nice Keyman! A little something I'm working on as we speak. Prototyping.

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This is a rusty okapi that I re-handled with two aluminum breaker bars. I also replaced the pivot pins with 1/16 brass pivot screws. It was a bit of a project, but it turned out looking great. I used a rat tail file and a coping saw to cut and shape the breaker bars, and sandpaper and elbow grease to finish. Decided to paint it pink and replace the split ring with a badass duck. :thumbup::p





 
Braincandle said:
Draggat, here is the step bit for the 2-56 screws

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=1097

And here is the most common step bit I use for the main bolt screw (I have a few different ones for this but use this one the most)


http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=528
Click to expand...


Thanks. I already have the one for the 2-56 screws, but it has only worked on Benchmades for me so far. I typically drill the pivot countersink with a forstner or brad point and then find the center for the pin where the point of the first bit was. I use the pivot pin to join the original scale on top, drill the rest of the scale holes and then use a standard twist drill bit to start the countersink, then finish it with a brad point. I find that the twist bit finds the center of the thread hole really well. It just doesn't make flat bottomed holes. Takes a while, but it seems to work really well for me.... if any of it makes sense!
 
H&K 14715. Stripped the BK1 coating off with a wire wheel and added red linen micarta scales, which seem to be pretty tough. I already dropped this knife twice and other than a little ding, they're fine. Forgot to mention, you won't find clips on my knives.... I hate em.





 
Al Mar Shrike with black paper micarta and red G10. Turned out pretty well until I got to the final sanding and saw that there were some epoxy voids under the G10. Can't win them all!







 
draggat said:
Thanks. I already have the one for the 2-56 screws, but it has only worked on Benchmades for me so far. I typically drill the pivot countersink with a forstner or brad point and then find the center for the pin where the point of the first bit was. I use the pivot pin to join the original scale on top, drill the rest of the scale holes and then use a standard twist drill bit to start the countersink, then finish it with a brad point. I find that the twist bit finds the center of the thread hole really well. It just doesn't make flat bottomed holes. Takes a while, but it seems to work really well for me.... if any of it makes sense!
Click to expand...

Ditto.
Well, except I mark all my holes and drill pilot holes first.
Very nice work Draggat.

Very interesting looking material you've got there Igorded.
 
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