Pics of customized production knives

Oh man this Juma sure looks great. How does it feel in the hand?
Micarta and G10 have a somewhat sturdier feel to them as opposed to "cheap plastic" handles...
How's this stuff?
 
This is an awesome thread. Very inspirational. Here's what I did with my Spyderco Resilience:
I reshaped the blade.
crowned the spine (this was way easier than I thought it was going to be)
stonewashed the blade, liners and pocket clip

This was my first time doing anything like this, and although not perfect, I'm pretty happy with the way it came out.


tumblr_m4aedtjJPB1rsgyamo1_1280.jpg



tumblr_m4aef58e9N1rsgyamo1_1280.jpg




tumblr_m4aegbUO8I1rsgyamo1_1280.jpg




tumblr_m4aeheuiL11rsgyamo1_1280.jpg




for reference, here is an original resilience:
SP142GP.jpg
 
Sharp looking new avatar you've got there CTS :)

Frenchmade: Great job! I would definitely get one if they came like that!
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
How did you do that stonewash? Looks great.
Click to expand...

Hey CrimsonTide, it was super easy. The first step is to find a bunch of smooth stones of various sizes and put them into a container that is large enough to accomodate the blade and whatever else you want to stonewash.
Then spray a liberal amount of WD40 onto the rocks (I don't know why you need to do this really, my guess is to reduce friction)
drop in the blade and close the lid. Then you have to shake it for about an hour or more.
-What I did was wrap the container in a towel and put it in the dryer with a bunch of other towels, to prevent damaging the dryer, and let it spin for an hour. Much easier.
Then you just have to resharpen the blade.

Be careful with higher carbon steels though, like tool steels because they may chip if you are not gentle enough.
 
frenchmade said:
Hey CrimsonTide, it was super easy. The first step is to find a bunch of smooth stones of various sizes and put them into a container that is large enough to accomodate the blade and whatever else you want to stonewash.
Then spray a liberal amount of WD40 onto the rocks (I don't know why you need to do this really, my guess is to reduce friction)
drop in the blade and close the lid. Then you have to shake it for about an hour or more.
-What I did was wrap the container in a towel and put it in the dryer with a bunch of other towels, to prevent damaging the dryer, and let it spin for an hour. Much easier.
Then you just have to resharpen the blade.

Be careful with higher carbon steels though, like tool steels because they may chip if you are not gentle enough.
Click to expand...



I have a vibratory tumbler, so I'd like to play around with putting in regular rocks instead of the ceramic media.

These smooth stones you are talking about, are they anything special or just regular old smooth gravel?
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
I have a vibratory tumbler, so I'd like to play around with putting in regular rocks instead of the ceramic media.

These smooth stones you are talking about, are they anything special or just regular old smooth gravel?
Click to expand...

The rocks were nothing special, no. But I did try and find rocks that we similar in texture.
I tumbler would be great! The first blade I stonewashed (Endura 4) I did by hand. What an exhausting task that was. It certainly is the poor man's way to do it.
 
BTW, I just checked out your youtube channel and I realized that I've watched a million of your videos in the past.
Thanks for posting so much work. Really helpful.
 
Wow, There is some awesome stuff on this thread. I wish I had the hardware to do engravings and stuff of that nature, but alas I do not. So for now I use athletic tape and a pencil to do mu personalizing, lol
photostream
 
Here is my Benchmade Mini Warn. I removed the tanto, and reground it into a full convex with a BM Stryker profile.
IMG_0003.jpg
 
kershaw ram. Smoothed the g10 scales, darkened and flamed the clip, flamed the rest of the silver hardware hex, stop bar. I will be finnishing up the thumbstuds tomorrow.
moddedram002.jpg

moddedram001.jpg

moddedram003.jpg

moddedram005.jpg
 
frenchmade said:
This is an awesome thread. Very inspirational. Here's what I did with my Spyderco Resilience:
I reshaped the blade.
crowned the spine (this was way easier than I thought it was going to be)
stonewashed the blade, liners and pocket clip

This was my first time doing anything like this, and although not perfect, I'm pretty happy with the way it came out.


tumblr_m4aedtjJPB1rsgyamo1_1280.jpg



tumblr_m4aef58e9N1rsgyamo1_1280.jpg




tumblr_m4aegbUO8I1rsgyamo1_1280.jpg




tumblr_m4aeheuiL11rsgyamo1_1280.jpg




for reference, here is an original resilience:
SP142GP.jpg
Click to expand...

Outstanding job on the resilience! Your reshaping of the blade make the lines of the knife sleeker and much more appealing to the eye.
 
idaho said:
What kind of crazy material is that?
Stabilized albino snake?

Gorgeus.
Click to expand...

Thanks idaho,
It's a material called Juma and this particular pattern they call Ivory Snake.
No matter how you cut it, sand it, or shape it; the pattern is still there.
It's very cool.
 
Murphys Law said:
Oh man this Juma sure looks great. How does it feel in the hand?
Micarta and G10 have a somewhat sturdier feel to them as opposed to "cheap plastic" handles...
How's this stuff?
Click to expand...

Well, it's not as rigid as G10 or Micarta. But, it's still hard enough for scales. I found this stuff while searching for scale material on line. The seller advertised it being used for knife handles and cue sticks. The pattern runs right through the material. You can sand, fine sand, buff and get a shiny glass like finish. Or use a coarser grit paper for a more textured surface. How it is finished has everything to do with how it feels "in hand".
The real plus here is the patterns....for sure. :cool:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top