PIF-ERS just talking shop

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RayseM said:
Trying to open is the problem. The knife is new and pristine - no dirt and definitely no rust. :confused:
Thanks for the ideas though.

R
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Kizer and that damn red lock tight. I take a soldering iron to them nuts just about first thing when I get them. If I don't I make sure to do it before I send it out. A lot of people have problems getting them to break loose. It's not just you. Good to see you are going to be able to send it back and hes going to open it up for you. That's a hell of a great guy there.

Cheers
 
@BearMGCHafter glad the Ontario is going to keep getting used. It really is a great outdoors knife!
@Neko2 I intentionally use Libre Office and can say I've had zero issues. Has been 100% compatible even with the newer versions of MS Office and it runs faster IMO. :thumbsup:
@razor-edge-knives thanks for taking a look at the Splinter. Very kind indeed. You Hogue will be out this week I haven't forgotten or anything just keeping very busy moving :mad:
 
Just received this little Spyderco folder from Sharp & Fiery Sharp & Fiery ,
UswVQoi.jpg
thanks very much Cloeman, now if you would be so kind to pass on your secrets to unpacking rather then the way I did, but a least I had a knife and missed the box. I don't know when you will get mail Sir but it's coming.
 
woodysone said:
Just received this little Spyderco folder from Sharp & Fiery Sharp & Fiery ,
UswVQoi.jpg
thanks very much Cloeman, now if you would be so kind to pass on your secrets to unpacking rather then the way I did, but a least I had a knife and missed the box. I don't know when you will get mail Sir but it's coming.
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Glad you like it. :) Its a sweet little lightweight and smooth knife. :)
 
South paw draw said:
Hey S&F if I had let's say a fixed blade. And I wanted to maybe send it to my Canadian brother S&F would your Canadian mail take that or is that just folders they take?
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Basically, fixed blades, slipjoints and lockbacks are no problem.
Its a grey area for flippers, and knives that can be “wrist” flicked right now.
Autos, balisongs are all a no-go.
Generally folders are fine...but they are on a kick snagging anything with a flipper tab.
Hope that helps.
 
Sharp & Fiery said:
Basically, fixed blades, slipjoints and lockbacks are no problem.
Its a grey area for flippers, and knives that can be “wrist” flicked right now.
Autos, balisongs are all a no-go.
Generally folders are fine...but they are on a kick snagging anything with a flipper tab.
Hope that helps.
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Can you pm me your address please. Have something here I'll like you to have. Might be a week or so for me to finish the leather work. I have the slips I am finishing for the pif thread and a few things I'm doing for another member. But as soon as that's done I would like for you to have something. Nothing special. And the sheath is boring and made by a idiot but I think you would use it a little bit more then me.
 
I guess this is the place to talk about our PiF after we have gotten them done. I didn't realize. My apologies.

Yimes Yimes you mentioned you use a sharpmaker. You want to know a really fast way to reprofile an edge with the Sharmpaker? A combination of Jdavis' technique, and cheap diamond plates from ebay.

I can't remember if he uses any bad language in the video, but if he does, consider it heartily dislclaimed!

​
I even reprofiled my K390 Police 4 this way, from whatever it was from the factory (aka not very sharp at all), to 15 dps before I did a 20 dps microbevel. Sensing a theme in my sharpening yet? I started with a 320 grit stone, then 600, then 1000 for the reprofile. After that, I went to the brown rods, then the white rods. I did use the corners, though, unlike Jdavis.

Also this was after I reground my blade to be thinner behind the edge. It is currently .5 mm behind the edge, which is just under .02". I can't tell you what it was from the factory, because I just got the right battery for my first set of calipers today. But this K390 grind slow, and it took me a long time, like an hour and a half. On the other hand, I re-straightened and sharpened the edge on my Tuff lite in like five or ten minutes this way. With a normal steel and not a super high carbide steel, you'll probably find this technique to be a breeze. By the way, that Pacific Salt is somewhere south of .3 mm (.0118") behind the microbevel - It is essentially "zero ground". Yeah, it cuts. It doesn't touch diamond though. Only the SM rods.

Note, I use the Sharpmaker "sideways", instead of front to back. I rotate it 90° from how Sal teaches to use it in the Spyderco videos. I find this more comfortable. I also do it left handed. o_O

IMG_5581.JPG IMG_5582.JPG
 
And this is a fairly new technique for me, one I did not use on the fighter I PiFed you.
 
David Mary David Mary Very cool. I see what your doing there. I never thought to use a stone like that up against the rod. I have recently sharpened a new Police 4 using just the brown and white rods and it took a while but it’s sharper then when it arrived but could be better. I have a small fixed blade that needs some serious work to make it sharp and I am going to try your method to the best of my amateur ability to see what I can do. Thanks for the information.
 
Makael said:
You mean Dye it, no paint
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Nope I ment edge coat aka edge paint. Sand the edge and paint it with black edge coat.

Edit. Ok so technically it is acrylic dye. But it's leather paint. It doesn't dye the leather. I will post a picture of the edge when I finish it tomorrow. I'm not varnishing it off. Its getting a black acrylic edge.20191028_223622.jpg
 
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jlauffer said:
South paw draw South paw draw , just curious about the Pro Lite Sport you claimed a bit ago. You thought it would probably be catch and release, but haven't seen it back on the list. Did your daughter end up liking it?
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She only got to use it for a few days. Then she headed out to Australia for vacation she will not be back for another 8 days. I want her to be able to use it for a few weeks before any decision is made.
 
South paw draw said:
She only got to use it for a few days. Then she headed out to Australia for vacation she will not be back for another 8 days. I want her to be able to use it for a few weeks before any decision is made.
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Gotcha:thumbsup:
 
David Mary said:
I guess this is the place to talk about our PiF after we have gotten them done. I didn't realize. My apologies.

Yimes Yimes you mentioned you use a sharpmaker. You want to know a really fast way to reprofile an edge with the Sharmpaker? A combination of Jdavis' technique, and cheap diamond plates from ebay.

I can't remember if he uses any bad language in the video, but if he does, consider it heartily dislclaimed!

​
I even reprofiled my K390 Police 4 this way, from whatever it was from the factory (aka not very sharp at all), to 15 dps before I did a 20 dps microbevel. Sensing a theme in my sharpening yet? I started with a 320 grit stone, then 600, then 1000 for the reprofile. After that, I went to the brown rods, then the white rods. I did use the corners, though, unlike Jdavis.

Also this was after I reground my blade to be thinner behind the edge. It is currently .5 mm behind the edge, which is just under .02". I can't tell you what it was from the factory, because I just got the right battery for my first set of calipers today. But this K390 grind slow, and it took me a long time, like an hour and a half. On the other hand, I re-straightened and sharpened the edge on my Tuff lite in like five or ten minutes this way. With a normal steel and not a super high carbide steel, you'll probably find this technique to be a breeze. By the way, that Pacific Salt is somewhere south of .3 mm (.0118") behind the microbevel - It is essentially "zero ground". Yeah, it cuts. It doesn't touch diamond though. Only the SM rods.

Note, I use the Sharpmaker "sideways", instead of front to back. I rotate it 90° from how Sal teaches to use it in the Spyderco videos. I find this more comfortable. I also do it left handed. o_O

View attachment 1221855 View attachment 1221856
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I just did this with the Ontario 1 that Eric sent me. It came with a rolled edge that wasn't weak enough to break off so I whipped out a diamond plate and rested it against my SM rods. I forgot who I stole the technique from but it was definitely due to someone suggesting to do so on BF.
 
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