Pocket knife suggestions to cut up cardboard

I cut cardboard using my folding knives, not because they are the best choice but because I need/want to find whatever chances to use my folders ;) I agree with several posters that cardboard dulls a sharp knife VERY quickly and it doesn't matter whether its VG10 or K390; it also scratches the blade easily, not deep scratches but hairline ones. Also, some thick cardboard boxes have staples and if you are not careful enough and run your blade into them, they can nick the edge, although I found K390 seems to be tougher than S30V.
 
numbersman said:
...How about a serrated Endura, oreven Tenacious? I own both of thiose, and they tear up cardboard boxes real good.
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Endura y saber ground and has a very obtuse bevel... that's not what you are looking for when zipping through thick carboard. Tenacious... maybe, at least is full flat. A serrated Military would be even better.

I still don't see the benefit or serrations to slice through non-fibrous material.

Mikel
 
If your usage is cutting cardboard only occasionally or a small percentage of the use then there are several knives that would meet that need. I use a Buck vantage pro with 20cv blade and it works great. But if you cut up a lot of cardboard and that’s your primary chore then I would recommend a dedicated box cutter with replacement blades and save your pocket knife for regular pocket knife use.
 
Planterz said:
I can't speak for XHP, and to be honest I haven't really used S30V all that much either. Nothing against the steel really, it just happens that I've never really used an S30V knife for any extended amount of time. Not that I can recall, anyway. I will say though that I like M390 and CTS-204P much better; or at least that I like the knives I have in that steel (a Kershaw Bareknuckle and Spyderco Delica, respectively). It holds an edge very well and is easy for me to sharpen with the tools and skills I possess. I find it easier for me to maintain a sharp edge with those steels than I ever did with S30V. Actually, I can get a sharper edge, but that maybe could be attributed to improvements in skill and not just the steel (probably both).

Extreme edge holding is useless if you can't maintain it, whether by lack of equipment, skills, or both. Maxamet or S110V might take a hell of a long time to dull, but it eventually will and if you can't resharpen it, it'll be an expensive, useless knife shaped object rather than a knife. Of course, on the opposite end of the spectrum you have knives that are easy to sharpen but don't hold an edge worth a shit.

What you need to find is what works best for you. For example, I've been a big fan of VG-10 for a long time. Once upon a time it was a higher-end steel, a bit below 154CM/ATS-34, but is generally considered a a not-quite-low-end steel these days; it ain't great, but it's much better than 8Cr13MoVWtFBBQ and the like. But for my purposes, it has served fantastically. It holds an edge for as long as I usually need it to, and with my skills and equipment I can easily touch it up. Plus there's just something about VG-10 combined with my tools and skills that I can get it sharper than just about anything else I've used, with only a few very new exceptions (the aforementioned M390/204P and K390). I know my limitations and needs, and S110V or Maxamet would be a bad choice for me.
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The point regarding the difficulty of sharpening makes sense. The XHP is not supposed to be any more difficult to sharpen than the S30V. Now regarding M390, I have seen users mention both that it is not hard to sharpen and a few saying that it is. It's also good to know that Maxamet is also tough to sharpen. Since you sharpen M390s, I was wondering what are you using to sharpen. I recently bought the Sharpmaker with the default rods. Do you think it would be necessary to get the diamond rods if I do get the M390? I read that the diamond rods don't last long, so some people get a regular diamond sharpener and then overlay it on one of the medium rods to get the correct angle.

If I were to go with the regular steel knives, I would probably get the Ontario Rat II in D2 steel, since it looks great to boot. The edge retention rankings go only so far though. Both M390 and XHP are ranked as 9/10 in edge retention, but I've seen tests that show the M390 edge lasts much longer than XHP despite the same rank. Now the D2 is ranked as 7/10 and VG-10 as 5/10, so presumably the edge would last for a much shorter period. In real world, I wonder how much of a difference this translates to and how noticeable it is. Maybe users who regularly utilize both a super steel and a "regular" steel can shed some light on this aspect.
 
Black Oak Bladeworks said:
Welcome! I think for your uses both steels will work quite well. I would go with what ever one you like the looks of better. :) Having owned both kershaw and spyderco though, I would say spydercos quality is better than kershaws. But Kershaw does have a really good warranty service if you should need it.

I think your choices are solid, I think cold steel has decent options in your price range as well. I still prefer spyderco just because they are USA made. I would pick that option out of those 5 listed. Good luck!
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The Spyderco Chapparal is made in Taiwan...

Confractus said:
Ok, maybe I should have provided more details so users here didn't think I'm getting a knife just to be cutting up cardboard boxes all day. My use is specifically for occasionally cutting up cardboard to burn in a fireplace. This might happen couple times a week or not at all in a given week. It's based on if I received any packages that week. I can understand the box cutter recommendation if I was cutting a lot of boxes and frequently.
I just want an all around knife that won't dull easily, including if I need to use it to trim a stick I might find outside for fetching with my dog. For automotive purposes, it's more for cutting off things if the need arises. I once had a piece of bumper detach and rub on my front wheel. I had to pull over on the freeway and was stuck because I couldn't cut off the offending piece and yet didn't want to have the car towed just for that reason (and no one to call to bring me a knife at that time). Embarrassingly, I had to borrow a knife from the police who had stopped to see what's up to cut off the damn thing.

If I really go down to it, I guess my concern is related to the apparent edge retention differences between the XHP and M390 steels. But I don't really see any sort of strong consensus in the replies here that one is better than the other. So maybe I'll just wait for few days to see if Kershaw M390 comes in stock and if not, I'll go with the Spyderco XHP steel. I guess the XHP is also nice in terms of being easier for a novice to sharpen.
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It's generally recommended not to burn cardboard in a fireplace or indoor stove because it contains toxic chemicals (including the ink used to print on cardboard).
 
eveled said:
A box cutter or utility knife is best for sure. My personal favorite is the good old Stanley non retractable one. But it requires a sheath.

Next best cardboard knife is a Dexter Russel net knife. The thin serated blade will cut miles of cardboard before it needs to be sharpened. Then it just needs to have the back rubbed flat on a stone.
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I gotta second this ^^

As a "knife guy" you wanna use a knife for everything cuz it's cool, but I've worked in three hardware stores -sometimes cutting boxes for a long time -and nothing works better than a good ol' box cutter. Keep the knife clipped onto your pocket and the cutter in a sheath if you want to still carry a knife. I replaced blades often...

Box cutter hands down...

-T
 
You’re splitting hairs at this point, just buy whatever knife you want to get most. After that, buy the second. It’s good to have variety.
 
Like others have said, something like the Delica below (was going to also include a pic of a Chapparal, but I can't seem to find my only example today :eek:) if only modest box cutting is being done. But, a decent box cutter is the best for lots of box cutting. This Snap-On folding box cutter feels pretty good in-hand. It is push-button lock for both open and close. The blade moves just a tiny bit in the blade holder, but the blade holder itself has zero up/down or side/side play in the handle. The knife opens and closes very smoothly for a box cutter. Handle ergonomoics are not bad either. Downside (to most I assume?) is that it does not have a pocket clip. I have other folding box cutters that DO have a pocket clip though. I think I got this cutter on Amazon for something like $12 several years ago.

6THEPeL.jpg
 
Confractus said:
The point regarding the difficulty of sharpening makes sense. The XHP is not supposed to be any more difficult to sharpen than the S30V. Now regarding M390, I have seen users mention both that it is not hard to sharpen and a few saying that it is. It's also good to know that Maxamet is also tough to sharpen. Since you sharpen M390s, I was wondering what are you using to sharpen. I recently bought the Sharpmaker with the default rods. Do you think it would be necessary to get the diamond rods if I do get the M390? I read that the diamond rods don't last long, so some people get a regular diamond sharpener and then overlay it on one of the medium rods to get the correct angle.

If I were to go with the regular steel knives, I would probably get the Ontario Rat II in D2 steel, since it looks great to boot. The edge retention rankings go only so far though. Both M390 and XHP are ranked as 9/10 in edge retention, but I've seen tests that show the M390 edge lasts much longer than XHP despite the same rank. Now the D2 is ranked as 7/10 and VG-10 as 5/10, so presumably the edge would last for a much shorter period. In real world, I wonder how much of a difference this translates to and how noticeable it is. Maybe users who regularly utilize both a super steel and a "regular" steel can shed some light on this aspect.
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I freehand with ceramic rods, including from a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Occasionally I use diamond if I need to. I also have a strop, but I prefer the finished edge my ceramics give me. I was lousy with the Sharpmaker. I have an Edge Pro that I use for reprofiling, which I only do very rarely. If you maintain your edge with regular touch-ups, reprofiling shouldn't be a frequent requirement. I've been freehand sharpening for ~25 years. I've reprofiled knives freehand many times. My knives won't have that mirror polished edge that some people get, but they still cut.

If you haven't developed your sharpening skills yet, it's not a bad idea to start with a "practice" knife or two. Something low to mid end but decent, like a Kershaw in 14C28N or a used Spyderco in VG-10 that you got off eBay or the Exchange here. A Kabar Dozier in AUS-8 is less than $25 but very good for the price. Use a knife like that to cut your cardboard and you'll need more frequent touch-ups, giving you the practice and confidence to progress to knives in better steels.
 
OrangeBlueOrangeBlue said:
The Spyderco Chapparal is made in Taiwan...
It's generally recommended not to burn cardboard in a fireplace or indoor stove because it contains toxic chemicals (including the ink used to print on cardboard).
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Well, now you have me looking up burning cardboard in a fireplace. I usually burn a few to start a wood fire, but I guess this is something I'll have to look into more now. I even see articles about the negative effects of burning wood in a fireplace. Funny things you learn online - I asked about a knife to cut up cardboard for burning, and I'm learning that maybe shouldn't use a knife to cut up cardboard or cut up cardboard to make a fire in the first place or use the fireplace. Hahaha.

By the way, I didn't know that they make boxcutters where it's so easy to replace the blade. Mine is a 10 year old craftsman boxcutter where you have to unscrew the damn thing to replace the blade, so most of the time I don't care to go through that trouble. Now the nice boxcutters that have been posted here can cost as much as a decent knife (some cost as much as M390 steel knife). So I don't know if I'm being cheap by thinking that I'm better off investing in a decent knife instead that has many more uses than a box cutter. Plus it seems like I might stop cutting up cardboard soon thanks to Orange here...
 
Confractus said:
Ok, maybe I should have provided more details so users here didn't think I'm getting a knife just to be cutting up cardboard boxes all day. My use is specifically for occasionally cutting up cardboard to burn in a fireplace. This might happen couple times a week or not at all in a given week. It's based on if I received any packages that week. I can understand the box cutter recommendation if I was cutting a lot of boxes and frequently.
I just want an all around knife that won't dull easily, including if I need to use it to trim a stick I might find outside for fetching with my dog. For automotive purposes, it's more for cutting off things if the need arises. I once had a piece of bumper detach and rub on my front wheel. I had to pull over on the freeway and was stuck because I couldn't cut off the offending piece and yet didn't want to have the car towed just for that reason (and no one to call to bring me a knife at that time). Embarrassingly, I had to borrow a knife from the police who had stopped to see what's up to cut off the damn thing.

If I really go down to it, I guess my concern is related to the apparent edge retention differences between the XHP and M390 steels. But I don't really see any sort of strong consensus in the replies here that one is better than the other. So maybe I'll just wait for few days to see if Kershaw M390 comes in stock and if not, I'll go with the Spyderco XHP steel. I guess the XHP is also nice in terms of being easier for a novice to sharpen.
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OP, I am not sure that everyone that responded has read your updated message. It sounds like you are looking for a general EDC knife. Any of the knives you originally listed will do what you want. The Chaparral is a fine knife, however a bit small. That’s great for me. I don’t need a large knife for EDC at all. However for general EDC, I would strongly recommend the Spyderco Delica. Get the standard in VG10 if you are a noob with sharpening. VG10 is easy to sharpen with the Sharpmaker.

if you have bigger balls and want to try out a more wear resistant steel, get the Delica in K390. Yes, you should get the Spyderco diamond or CBN rods for your Sharpmaker. For the task you listed in your updated post, skip the box cutter. You already have one, as you said. The reason many of us recommend Spyderco is because they are all about performance. Put a high end steel like K390 into an affordable package like the Delica is like putting a large engine into a small car. You get the original muscle car (or knife.)

You have taken your first steps into a larger world. I mourn for you wallet. But, you will find peace.
 
That's always the "top recommendation", and while practical, this isn't the "Home Handyman and Professional Worker" forum. On BF, what fun would a utility knife or similar tool be? If knives were ONLY for cutting and absolutely NOTHING else, BladeForums could not exist in its current format, neither could 85%-90% of knife manufacturers and companies.

And nobody would be posting these questions. They'd have already been to Lowe's or Home Depot and bought some utility knives and spare blades.

Mitchell Knives said:
This is what you want for cutting cardboard.

View attachment 1493743
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So, the summary after 4 pages of discussion is: Buy whatever you like because in no longer than 2 weeks after receiving your new purchase, you would be looking for suggestions about another knife. And so on. It is cyclic, don't fight it, embrace it.

Cheers!

Mikel
 
Confractus said:
Well, now you have me looking up burning cardboard in a fireplace. I usually burn a few to start a wood fire, but I guess this is something I'll have to look into more now. I even see articles about the negative effects of burning wood in a fireplace. Funny things you learn online - I asked about a knife to cut up cardboard for burning, and I'm learning that maybe shouldn't use a knife to cut up cardboard or cut up cardboard to make a fire in the first place or use the fireplace. Hahaha.

By the way, I didn't know that they make boxcutters where it's so easy to replace the blade. Mine is a 10 year old craftsman boxcutter where you have to unscrew the damn thing to replace the blade, so most of the time I don't care to go through that trouble. Now the nice boxcutters that have been posted here can cost as much as a decent knife (some cost as much as M390 steel knife). So I don't know if I'm being cheap by thinking that I'm better off investing in a decent knife instead that has many more uses than a box cutter. Plus it seems like I might stop cutting up cardboard soon thanks to Orange here...
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treated wood is probably something to avoid burning indoors, but regular untreated wood shouldn’t be a problem.
 
As you said, you are NOT cutting cardboard all day long, so get the knife that you like the knife (feel, size, features) that you are able to sharpen.

This is my opinion based on what I have read here:

If you keep the knife very sharp, (strop often, etc) you will probably not see much difference between a super steel such as S110V and a buck stockman using 420HC. OK, a buck made in the USA has a BOS blade so better steel than the China version, but the point is that for the initial use, the journey from super sharp to not super sharp is pretty close. If you go a long time without sharpening, you hit this point where the super steel will long outlast your other steel.

So, if you keep that knife shaving hair, you might not notice a difference because you are always touching up your blade. On the other hand, a super steel is likely to be more difficult to sharpen, especially if you let it get very dull.

My first successes with sharpening came using sharpeners similar to the sharpener that you ordered (Spyderco Sharpmaker). You can even buy some ultra fine stones (https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/...ker-Ultra-Fine-Replacement-Stone-P297C98.aspx) or for the "rough stuff" either a diamond (https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Spyderco-Triangle-Sharpmaker-Diamond-Stone-Pair-P380C98.aspx) or cubic boron nitride (https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/...r-Cubic-Boron-Nitride-Stone-Pair-P606C98.aspx). After reading a bunch about the last two, I pretty much flipped a coin and purchased the Cubic Boron Nitride for no particular reason.

What I found was that my Spyderco with S110V steel was sharpened at a smaller than 15 degree angle so I still needed to angle the knife on the Sharpmaker.
 
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