Pocket knife suggestions to cut up cardboard

I’m kinda obsessed with finding a perfect box cutter for all the Amazon shit stuff I buy. It’s been a lot of purchases!! Believe it or not a canary box cutter yellow handle is so far the best. Moves through cardboard like a snake, moves easy in the hand, very little box drag, blunted tip so I can throw it in my pocket, thin serration which stays sharp forever. Costs 10 bucks.
CANARY Corrugated Cardboard Cutter Dan Chan, Safety Box Cutter Knife (Link to amazon removed as they are not a supporting vendor)
 
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I think the best basic cutter I have is my Ontario RAT in D2 steel.
Nothing fancy in steel or design. But a great work knife at a great price.
 
I need to ask... Is there a true reason to slice and dice every single cardboard box within 100yard reach? Do the dumpsters have such a small opening that you have to feed 1" wide strips through a slot or something?

Whenever I receive a cardboard box (amazon, appliance or whatever) I just cut or rip the tape and fold it back to it's original (before assembly) flat shape. If anything, some boxes have glued overlaps that might require one or two cuts to allow folding flat. This allows me to slide them inside the cardboard/paper dumpsters openings no problem.

So... what is all that rage about 24/7 cardboard cutting thing?

Mikel
 
I need to ask... Is there a true reason to slice and dice every single cardboard box within 100yard reach? Do the dumpsters have such a small opening that you have to feed 1" wide strips through a slot or something?

Whenever I receive a cardboard box (amazon, appliance or whatever) I just cut or rip the tape and fold it back to it's original (before assembly) flat shape. If anything, some boxes have glued overlaps that might require one or two cuts to allow folding flat. This allows me to slide them inside the cardboard/paper dumpsters openings no problem.

So... what is all that rage about 24/7 cardboard cutting thing?

Mikel

I used to have to pop them open and then make displays out of them.

Which was a bit of cutting.
 
I need to ask... Is there a true reason to slice and dice every single cardboard box within 100yard reach? Do the dumpsters have such a small opening that you have to feed 1" wide strips through a slot or something?

Whenever I receive a cardboard box (amazon, appliance or whatever) I just cut or rip the tape and fold it back to it's original (before assembly) flat shape. If anything, some boxes have glued overlaps that might require one or two cuts to allow folding flat. This allows me to slide them inside the cardboard/paper dumpsters openings no problem.

So... what is all that rage about 24/7 cardboard cutting thing?

Mikel
I'm kind of on the same page. At work we have a cardboard compactor in which most boxes will fit when folded back to their original flat shape. Those that won't can be folded one more time to fit in the compactor.

At home I usually fold boxes until they fit in the trash can. If they're too big for that then I will cut them down but the box has to be of pretty good size to require that.
 
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I've been reading a lot about knives and at first couldn't understand why a pocket knife should cost more than $30. Then I found this chart that quantifies the properties of different types of steels.

I am looking to get a pocket knife that will hold the longest edge while cutting up cardboard and the occasional wood slicing for creating tinder. Looking at the Edge retention rankings, it seems like I need one of the super steels (although not the CPM-S110V, S90V, or the M4 due to lack of toughness/corrosion resistance). Elmax and CTS-204P seem to be out as well as they are very expensive. This left me with CTS-XHP, CPM-20CV, and M390. Now I'd like to keep the budget below $100 ($150 max, if necessary). Based on that, I have come up with these models after a long search:

  1. Spyderco C152PGY Chaparral Knife - CTS-XHP, $96

  2. Kershaw 1812BLK Dividend Assisted Flipper Knife - M390, $77

  3. MKM Burnley Fara Slip Joint Folding Knife - M390, $95

  4. Boker Kalashnikov Automatic Knife - CTS-XHP, $70

  5. Kershaw 1776OLSW Link Drop Point Knife - CPM-20CV, $72
Now because choices 4 and 5 only come in crappy green color, I'm left with #1, 2, and 3. Of these, I prefer the style of #1 and #2. Since #2 is out of stock, that leaves me with the Spyderco. Yet, reading online, it seems that the M390 will hold the edge much better than the XHP, so I don't know if I should wait for #2 to come in stock...

Since I'm new to knives and only yesterday bought the Sharpmaker to try sharpening, I have two questions:

  1. Am I missing anything in the assessment of the steels when it comes to edge retention, given my use case? I read some comments where the CTS-XHP is essentially pretty much the same as the CPM-S30V in terms of edge retention

  2. Are the above choices really the best one can do for getting a high quality pocket knife these days? I was willing to get used, but eBay searches turn up pretty much the same prices as elsewhere. If by spending a bit more I'll get a much better knife (durable), that would be worth it. Wondering what the knife veterans have to say here.
Best knife I can recommend for cardboard is someone else's knife. The more expensive the better.
 
I need to ask... Is there a true reason to slice and dice every single cardboard box within 100yard reach? Do the dumpsters have such a small opening that you have to feed 1" wide strips through a slot or something?

Whenever I receive a cardboard box (amazon, appliance or whatever) I just cut or rip the tape and fold it back to it's original (before assembly) flat shape. If anything, some boxes have glued overlaps that might require one or two cuts to allow folding flat. This allows me to slide them inside the cardboard/paper dumpsters openings no problem.

So... what is all that rage about 24/7 cardboard cutting thing?

Mikel
I think generally breaking down boxes includes just that unless the boxes are glued or otherwise need to be shaped to fit in the recycler.
 
Of the five on your list I would recommend the chaparral. The thin blade stock really makes a difference. I recently did a test comparing different knives in a broad range of media - cardboard, hard plastic, and seasoned pine. My chaparral came out slightly ahead of my M390 spyopera.

Don't discount S90V and S110V for cardboard, they are plenty tough enough. And in that previously mentioned test, my S90V native did noticeably better than my S110V native. It just wanted to keep cutting.
 
Thank you for the recommendations. I guess I was a bit hesitant about the Spyderco because of the CTS-XHP steel. The rankings place it at the same edge retention as the M390, but for whatever reason, I have seen multiple comments on the M390 edge lasting much longer than the XHP and that the XHP is very close to the S30V or even the D2. Hence the confusion.

The S110V is rated to have the best edge retention, but it's also ranked as one of the least tough steels, less so than AUS 8, so I have steered away from it. I want to be able to use the knife as needed without worrying about ruining a $200-$300 knife. Though in reality, I don't really understand the real world difference between a Toughness ranking of 2 (S110V) vs 6 (XHP).



This was an excellent observation about blade geometry, something I did not even consider. You're right, that could make quite a difference, assuming that a thinner geometry doesn't also mean more fragile blade. As for the ergonomics of the handle, I guess I won't find out until I receive it. One of the unfortunate side effects of ordering online...
Imagine toughness as the amount of stress a blade can take without chipping, or even how much it could bend without breaking.

The difference is incredible. S110V can often withstand only a few foot pounds of force applied to it, while XHP might hold up to five or six times more pretty easily.

M390, CPM-20CV, and CTS-204P are actually identical steels produced by different companies under different names. CTS-204P is rarer than the other two, and is produced in America by Carpenter, which lends to the illusion of higher price.

M390 is made by Bohler in Austria and is probably the most common of the trio.

For what you want to do, M390, XHP, M4, or even S35VN will all work great. In practice, you probably wouldn’t ever be able to tell the difference between these steels if they were on the same knife!

Basically:

M390 holds an edge very well and doesn’t rust easily. Not super tough, but pretty good. Avoid metal staples.

XHP is the toughest of the crew, but holds the least edge. Still pretty good edge retention.

M4 is very tough and holds a great edge too. Not as tough as XHP, and not for as long as M390, but very good scores in both categories. It rusts easier.

S35VN holds a good edge, is pretty tough, doesn’t rust easily, and is pretty good to sharpen too. It’s the most balanced of these steels.

The guys up there are right though—the shape of your knife is a big deal!

For cutting cardboard, I’d go with the Chaparral. I might not buy it personally, but for what you want to do, it’s great!

(As long as it fits your hand!)

If you really want to get into the science of it, look up Knife Steel Nerds or search for “Knife Steel Nerds” plus whatever you’d like to know about the steels.
 
Check out the Kizer sheepdog in 10v steel. On sale for $60 and will cut a ton of cardboard.

I love my spydercos, but that is a great deal.
 
Over a year later, my guess is the OPs decision most likely has been made some time ago........:rolleyes:


Some people just feel the need to reduce the size of ANY pile of cardboard...
Yes, reducing the size is the idea. My recycling bin is 64 gallons, and gets picked up every two weeks. Cutting the boxes up significantly reduces the volume vs just folding them up to fit in the bin.
As to cutting them, a Cold Steel Recon 1 tanto does an excellent job.
 
I rear up paper in my office for the same reason: spa e issues.
But cutting cardboard is easy. Even THIS knife can do it. 😁
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Cardboard dulls an edge quick in mediocre steels. S110V and M4 are my go to steels for cardboard.
Yup! They DO last longer... but it's not sinful to use ANY sharp knife on cardboard...
I've got a pair of Manix 2s that are carrying S110V under the hood, and they have yet to see a sharpener.
The same goes for my M4 Mini-Grip!
 
Yup! They DO last longer... but it's not sinful to use ANY sharp knife on cardboard...
I've got a pair of Manix 2s that are carrying S110V under the hood, and they have yet to see a sharpener.
The same goes for my M4 Mini-Grip!
I also keep around one of those sentry tuf-cloths to wipe all that tape gunk off the blade when I’m done, which is always there when I’m cutting up boxes.
 
after breaking down cardboard for 15 minutes with my 1660 CKTST Leek it was getting duller. I recalled hearing that cardboard worked as a strop so I tried it. I was astonished how well it worked!!
this might help folks as oblivious as I've been. and maybe the thin, flat ground Leek blade helped, too.
 
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