Post your CRK carry knife for today.

91bravo said:
Hey Chazz, looks like your stop pin screw is loose!
Click to expand...
I'm more often told that I have a screw loose myself than on one of my knives. :rolleyes:

Your message sent me scurrying up to my knife drawers for the StarBenza and my WiHa hex set. I don't recall ever touching any adjustments on the knife, and when I put bit to screw just now it moved no more than 5-10 degrees before touching the slab. I couldn't see it was out looking at it in hand, so you must have one hell of an eye. Looking at the pic, I'm wondering if it might be more the crappy jobsite lighting and hi-def enhancement.

Anyway, what's interesting is that I've touted this as the freest, smoothest CRK I've yet owned. When I just kiss the slab with the screw, it still is, but when I gall it down (which is almost no additional rotation) I can't even open the knife. This has always been my only knock on the 25's design, as the screwed down stop-pin is so close to the pivot as to render any adjustment there almost moot. This is why I love the floating stop-pin on the Inkosi so much.

I hate putting loc-tite in any knife and would rather make an occasional adjustment for play or centering than glue any component down. I'll just keep an eye on this one as I do several others so as not to lose a screw. :oops:
 
I was just looking out for ya! That is odd that tightening down the stop pin screw prevents you from opening the knife, that doesn't sound normal. All screws on my CRKs get snugged down firmly and doesn't affect my blade opening action at all.
 
Wooden Wednesday
y9U2XXA.jpg
 
91bravo said:
I was just looking out for ya! That is odd that tightening down the stop pin screw prevents you from opening the knife, that doesn't sound normal. All screws on my CRKs get snugged down firmly and doesn't affect my blade opening action at all.
Click to expand...
On the 21s with their bushing pivots, both the stop-pin and pivot screws are cranked down all the way at the factory to set the spacing and action just where CRK wants it when hand fitting. With the adjustable pivot on the 25s, the stop-pin is so close to the pivot that it affects the movement of the slabs needed to get the action right. I've taken down the washers on my 25 so I can get the action where I want it. This is something that I do to my 21's as well as I like my Sebenzas freer than CRK sends them out. I only take the washers down about 0.015 mm for the desired effect.

Checking the pivot on the Starbenza in question, I noted it's been loc-tited at the factory so I'll leave it alone and keep my stop-pin just kissing.

At any rate, I do appreciate you looking out for me, bro!
 
On my own 25, the lockside stop pin and standoff is lok-tited in and hasn't been touched in years. When I disassemble and reassemble, I only tighten the presentation side stop pin and standoff screws. Then I'll adjust tension on the pivot screw and voila! Smooth 25! I have a pic somewhere, let's see if I can dig it up!
 
ChazzyP said:
On the 21s with their bushing pivots, both the stop-pin and pivot screws are cranked down all the way at the factory to set the spacing and action just where CRK wants it when hand fitting. With the adjustable pivot on the 25s, the stop-pin is so close to the pivot that it affects the movement of the slabs needed to get the action right. I've taken down the washers on my 25 so I can get the action where I want it. This is something that I do to my 21's as well as I like my Sebenzas freer than CRK sends them out. I only take the washers down about 0.015 mm for the desired effect.

Checking the pivot on the Starbenza in question, I noted it's been loc-tited at the factory so I'll leave it alone and keep my stop-pin just kissing.

At any rate, I do appreciate you looking out for me, bro!
Click to expand...

IMG_1812_zpsccd08801.jpg


The stop pin and rear standoff don't have to be removed, so mine stay lok-tited in.
 
91bravo said:
IMG_1812_zpsccd08801.jpg


The stop pin and rear standoff don't have to be removed, so mine stay lok-tited in.
Click to expand...
Your practice makes a lot of sense leaving those standoffs frozen in place, bravo, as dis- and re-assembly are much easier that way. Regardless, if the factory fit between the stop-pin cranked all the way down and the spacing at the pivot for the washers is off just a little in a 25, the proximity of the two can affect the movement of the blade. This was not so profound in my Plain Jane, though I did tweak it just a taste to be more to my liking, but the tiniest little movement (touching vs galling) at the stop-pin on my StarBenza is the difference between free-dropping and un-openable.
 
Makes you think that in those knives where the stop pin tightness makes a difference in blade deployment that maybe the washers were fitted without the stop pin tightened completely.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top