Probably asked before cannot find it, tempering 440c steel in home oven.

Thanks, John & Greg.

It took me a while how I wanted to use all of your guys suggestions and still design a knife that I
Think is cool as well.
I will start working the measurements tomorrow when I get back from work, and then I am
Going to focus first on getting it into the shape as the design is and work very precise.
Once thatis done I am going to think about the next step... A bolster maybe, that is something completely
New to me and want to know than how to make one.... I just want to learn everything there is to know about
Knife making.

Till next time fellas.
Semper Fi.
 
I got my bench belt sander in today, it is not a professional one and I know it is fast
, but it is mine and I am
Proud of it. It is a Craftsman 2"x42"

 
Forget the belt sander ;0)

That is a sweet work bench you built there, steel top? how much did that run ya?
 
John Let's just say , office supplies..not the wood but the steel top
;)
I build the work bench for the knife making, cause before that I did not
Have anything.

And the steel has a longer life now, otherwise we would just blow
It up and breach it.
 
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I have got the feeling that i am doing something wrong....
The tip of the dagger doesn't develop as I thought.
Or does that come by it self once I bevel all 4 sides??

Please advise..
 
Thats looking really good


Going from 2D to 3D is kinda rough, kinda weird having to file past the point on both sides to make a beveled point ;0)
 
Yes John, that was the doubting point....
But as you see I just went on with filing, and I think
It worked out well. (I think)
The other side is almost done as well, but I am calling it a day.
Even got a blister from filing the entire day.
I keep about an 0.8 of a mm on the edges, is that ok??
Will continue tomorrow.

Semper Fi.
 
88cb05630b12cf1686de21aa401db7e7_zps4cabd099.jpg


Is this correct?
 
After reading about 440c until my eyes were bleeding, It seems the most common HT formula is as follows, Ramp to 1400F soak for 10 minutes, Ramp to 1900F soak for 30 minutes, air or plate quench cool to room temp, sub zero in dry ice/acetone 1 hour, Temper at 350 twice, cool to touch between cycles

The only gray area I found was the temper temperature some say 350 some say 400, I was unable to find a compelling argument for either temperature
 
Go with 400°F temper and if available, use cryo after the initial quench ( before the first temper).

The blade is looking much better.

The best thing to remember is that you can always file off a little more steel later on to even things up...buy you can't file any of it back on.
 
One thing I like to do is to make a cardboard or plywood profile for my knife. This also lets me get a better idea of how the knife will feel in my hand.

I usually draw it on paper, then glue it to plywood or card board. After profiling it, I can see how it feels in hand then reshape, modify or ask my self "What the ##@# was I thinking?" All said and done I use it for a template.

Ric
 
Not finished yet, needs some tweaking.
But I sanded it (by hand) with 150 grit.
Should I go higher once I want to send it
For HT?

Both sides are done only one side sanded.

 
I would stop at 1 grit below where you want to finish, after HT it will be much more difficult to sand, try to keep your grind lines (edges) as crisp as you can
 
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Use a hard backing stick of some sort to help clean up your lines when sanding. Maybe step back to draw filing for the bevels to clean them up again and then sand in the same manner with the hard backing.

--nathan
 
I don't want it to be too shiny when it is done, so my end grit will be 600 so I should go to 400 before HT?
I am going to make 2 more blades before I send them for HT, any advise on other designs that I should try?
Otherwise I will make another Roman (dagger) and a new Stamina2 (hunter knife).

So when I sand I should do the motions in one direction? Not just going back and forward?
After HT how do you guys and what do you use to sharpen the edges?

Still to do as well on the dagger; making holes for the 550 cord (where to make them?) haha just read your reply Greg..
And make thumb grip grooves (2 on each side, round or triangle?)

I know a lot of questions again, but like I said...eager to learn..

And thanks for the tip Nathan, I will use something flat and square to do the sanding.
And of course thanks to you as well for your advise John.

Semper Fi.
 
It won't matter so much before heat treating if you sand back and forth or not. For final finishing, you'll want your 400 or 600 grit passes to be in the same direction at the end to remove j-hook scratches that happen when switching direction. The main thing is with a hard and truly flat backing, you stay on the flat of your bevel as you work. This will help crisp up your lines.

--nathan
 
nevermind the 550 cord handle, I have decided that I am going to make a Micarta handle on it..
 
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