problems with hemp rope cutting as a test of edge retention

Cliff Stamp

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Awhile ago I started cutting rope as one of the methods to look at edge retention. I choose it for a couple of reasons, first many people did it so there was a base of information for comparison, and second it was readily available cheaply in consistent stock. The main goal was of course to allow some measure of comparison against other steels.

As side issues, the rope cutting allowed exploration of various other aspects such as the effect of changing the profile on cutting ability and edge retention. Through looking at the performance of dozens of knives with various profiles, and altering many of the knives I came to have a decent understanding of the influence of many of the geometrical aspects.

However the main goal was still not reached in a concrete fashion. Way back a few years ago on the forum I remember arguing that you could test for edge retention on different blade profiles, assuming you were careful enough about what you were doing. I still hold that this is true in some cases, however now realize that rope cutting is problematic in this area.

I recently finished up four rounds of hemp cutting with the Pronghorn, complete full sharpenings each time. The results were consistent, showing a smooth blunting pattern. However when compared to other knives the results don't make sense. It doesn't show the level of edge retention you would expect based on the quality of the knife.

Now before assumptions are made about the Pronghorn, the same can be said of other knives. I spent some time the last few days trying to sort out all the hemp trials I have ran, and there have been many. What I found was that the largest factor was the geometry of the knife. The more efficient the knife was cutting the rope, in general, the longer the edge lasted.

If the geometry difference was large enough, this effect would swamp out everything else and allow knives with softer steels which were of lower abrasion resistance to out cut knives which they should have no ability to do at all. Thus the obvious question was where is the performance coming from. Or was there a bias in the results.

I looked at the bias issue early on through use of friends who would do random cutting and not tell me how many cuts they had made, until I had finished the run. This had no influece on the trials and they were still consistent. I have also run blind trials in the past where I didn't even known the steels or heat treatment - again no problem with any skew.

During the Fowler hemp cutting I constantly watched the edge under magnifiation as well as testing for sharpness and noted the progress looking at the edge both to the side and straight down. It became quickly obvious that the reason for the skew in the performance was head smacking simple.

Back in the beginning I reasoned that the amount of force used to make a cut could be separated into two parts. A component necessary to cut into the hemp, and another which pushed the hemp apart. Doing just a few cuts you immediately realize that with a sharp knife, almost 100% of the force is the latter.

Based on this I reasoned that if you looked at the *change* in performance, the increase in load would allow an examination of blunting independent of the geometrical influence. I knew there was a small effect due to bunching based on geometry but figured this could be ignored. I also tested this with a few blades and found it was true.

Now it is very critical that the sharpening angle be the same. The microteeth formed by an abrasive are dependant on the angle of the edge. This is why you can see such massive changes in slicing performance when you decrease edge angles. For the hemp trials I always ran the same micro-bevel angle using a v-rod setup.

Here is the kicker, though I did test the influence of geometry, the blades used to test this aspect all cut the hemp very well. I mean *really* well. They could slice the hemp in under 10 lbs on a two inch draw. Try to do that and see just how impressive a performance that illustartes. For reference I have seen this take well over 100 lbs on some knives.

However, on knives that don't cut as well, you don't have as much control on the end of the draw, when you approach the very bottom of the cut. Take a knife which you bare need to press on, ~8 lbs on a draw, and you can finish the cut with minimal contact on the resting surface. Take a knife which needs 40 lbs and at the end of the cut you are mashing the knife into the cutting board.

Thus there is a significant influence of the cutting board (I have always used the same type of board). Unfortunately, the influence of this factor is *strongly* dependent on geometry. So you can increase the edge retention simply by altering the primary grind.

In short, only if the knives cut the rope with a similar amount of force, then you can make pretty much direct comparisons.

What is needed is a way to cut the rope without having it on a backing material, and for this to be easy enough to set up that you can run hundreds of cuts in a short period of time and which doesn't waste too much rope.

Other materials can be cut without such problems as they can be cut freestanding. Cutting cardboard is fairly easy in the manner, as it carpet and such. Thus edge retention comparisons on those materials would be more directly comparable.

As long as that described factor is eliminated, it would seem logical that the change in cutting ability would indicate the blunting and this this could be looked at independent of geometry. This of course isn't an arguement that you should not use identical geometries if at all possible.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

Ya, hemp rope in general can be misleading. I recently got a Lochsa -- as a quick aside, an absolutely magnificent piece of work -- and tested the edge as-sent on hemp rope versus my hand-tuned BM 710. The Lochsa's relatively more polished straight-edge blade shouldn't be able to touch the 710's recurve with coarse edge for slicing, but the Lochsa actually did really nicely on hemp rope. Why? Because the Lochsa's edge was so well done I could push-cut through the soft hemp, whereas I mostly slice with the 710, so I wasn't really measuring slicing ability. Switch to hard poly rope where push cutting isn't possible, and the difference shows.

In a recent thread on running abrasion tests to look at wear resistance, I think I mentioned hemp rope, but (hopefully) mentioned that the rope be held looped in one hand, specifically to avoid hitting the cutting board and thus turning the test back into one that tests edge strength to some extent.

Joe
 
Awhile ago on rec.knives the argument was raised that coarse edges were a crutch used on knives with inefficent cutting geometries. To some extent this is true, but you can generally performance increases with coarse geometries on any slicing. The best hemp cutting I have see was a modified D2 custom with a 10 degree (included) edge bevel and a 100 AO belt finish.

Loop cutting would eliminate any board influence but it is fairly wasteful. Generally you need to do ~100 cuts to get a decent blunting (depending on the steel quality). So repeating this a few times starts burning through rolls of hemp fast. The great thing about cutting on a board is that you can do cuts every 1/8" inch or so.

I really don't want to have to start paying so much for hemp that it cuts back seriously into money that could be buying knives. I think I'll try to find a very tight clamp with a very sharp contact surface.

You make a good point though about contrasting materials. Hemp cutting isn't a complete picture of edge retention, not even for ropes.

-Cliff
 
Yep, I agree that as a practical matter, it's too much of a pain to use handheld loops until the edge blunts. I usually do take a few cuts using handheld loops, not to test blunting, but to test edge geometry in this way. It's my sense that most people who do a lot of cutting do it by looping, so it's interesting to see how a knife cuts this way, it is different than cutting on a board.
 
Cliff,

I understand what you're saying, I'm just not clear on whether this came to your attention because the pronghorn was performing above or below your expectations?

-Jose
 
Cliff,

What is the best geometry for rope cutting?

What custom and production knives have performed the best on rope for you?



- Frank
 
It has been a known problem for some time. Will York touched it off awhile ago when he asked me to make a comment comparing various steels, which I should have been able to do considering all the hemp cutting I have done.

However when I looked at the trials they just didn't seem to indicate well the inherent performance of the steel. The simple opinel for example did very well and it is one of the softer steels with a low wear resistance.

At times I have even tried really crappy steels, like made in Japan "stainless steel" knives, and if I ground them so they cut really well, they would have better edge retention on such hemp cutting done in the above manner than other much better steels.

With the Pronghorn I was fairly determined to solve the problem so the edge was inspected under magnification and compared the part of the edge which contacted the cutting board to the part that did not and measured each for sharpness separately.

The difference was obvious both in appearance under magnification as well as when tested for sharpness both in terms of alignment as well as inherent aggression.

While I have solved the problem, or at least identifed it, I have now created another one as I have to work this information back into the reviews becase as they stand they can be misleading if someone compares the results from one to another.

On a really ironic note, some of the really early edge comparisons I did (pre 2000) were in fact more accurate in guaging edge retention than the rope cutting described in the above, though not nearly as precise.

In the beginning I would just do freehand cuts of various materials and guage sharpness in various ways. When I refined this technique I unknowingly skewed the result significantly. One step forward, two steps back.

As for the relative performance, the Opinel for example, with the same edge finish, ~600 DMT, can cut about twice as much before being blunted to the same level as the Pronghorn. This obviously does not imply an inherent steel superiority, though it does show the huge effect that geometry can make as the Opinel cuts about twice as well initially.

I'll confirm this idea shortly by compring the Pronghorn against the same knives on carpet and then carboard if I can gather some, as well as wood whittling possibly, and maybe chopping , splitting etc., depending on what Gaben wants to risk. I have no doubt that it will fare better than a lot of knives due to the consistency of the edge hardness and composition.

I am fairly confident in the above arguement based on the simple principles involved and what I observed both visually and on the sharpness testing. Anyone wishing to debate the general principles please do.

Frank, for slicing hemp, I have found no geometry limit on quality cutlery steels and have gone as low as five degrees per side on a D2 custom. An Opinel was the best production cutter, again mainly due to the geometry issue.

The grit finish I have found optimal was 100 AO, I tried 40 grit Diamond but it was too rough. I keep meaning to try 80 AO. Files work well also on really soft steels which can be readily cut.

-Cliff
 
Maybe what would work best would be sort of a miter box for rope. Find some metal tubing with an inner diameter just slightly bigger than the OD of your rope. Take a piece of 2x4 lumber and cut a narrow transverse slot about 1 inch deep across it with a thin saw (like a miter saw or hacksaw). Epoxy the tubing lengthwise down the center of the 2x4 such that it crosses the slot (don't get glue in the slot). Use a hacksaw to cut through the tubing over the slot. This cut should allign with the slot. Either use two angled cuts when you do this to make the break in the tubing v-shaped to accomodate the widest blade that you might use or use a tapered file to shape this slot.

The idea is that you can extend a piece of rope through one end of the tube, past the slot, and around 1/4-inch into the opposing tube. You slice through the rope and your blade passes through to drop into the narrow slot in the wood below. The slot is narrow and deep so that the blade is stopped without hitting bottom in the slot. There is no edge wear from the fixture with this approach.

Other materials could be used and other techniques of assembly. I think you understand where I'm going with the idea. The wood might tend to wear excessively so a hardwood, phenolic, or aluminum might be better in place of 2x4 fir.
 
But surely you are never going to be able to assess different steels on finished knives unless you use the same knife design for all the steels.

I agree the different grinds play a big part in a steels cutting ability, but so does everything else about the knife, right down to the handle shape/erganomics. The handle shape plays a big part in how much of the force you exsert is transmitted to the cutting portion of the blade. Say the centreline of the handle is a little lower than the centre line of the blade, this means that on a flat surface you would have to raise the handle slightly, meaning not so much of the blade is in contact with TITBC, as well as the canted wrist not being able to transmit the force to the blade as efficiently. An extreme example, but you are talking small degrees.
Add into that, blade profile, blade weight, centre of balance etc, and you are not exactly starting off on a level playing field.

Comparing one knife to another as a complete package is far easier.
 
Yog right on. That's why I don't hold much weight in these so called tests. And it didn't even take me years of testing to figure that out. The variables are just to great. The funny thing is some people on these forums actualy think they are scientific LOL
 
Enlightening information. I think this fact has probably been guessed by quite a few of the 'right tool for the job' crowd but it is nice to see more concrete examples.

I realize you are attmepting to assess the steel (or HT) alone and thus need to improve your testing, but for most of us this is very useful information as it stands. Most of us aren't using steel, we are using knives.

Good luck with your test method though.
 
I agree that it is very difficult to test only a steel, your results are more likely to be of the knife and this is fortunate because it is the end product we use.

While the Opinel results are surprising to some, there are some of us who have favored using these and other, small, thin bladed knives not because of how long they hold a sharp edge, but how long they will continue to cut after they have somewhat dulled. Funny how an $8 knife made to CUT, can at times outperform those costing hundreds more that are made under the illusion of possessing cutting ability. Just some food for thought. :D
 
Jamie, I'll just bet that your green canvas Wheeler utility hunter with the W1 blade slices rope very well too!
 
Cliff,

However when I looked at the trials they just didn't seem to indicate well the inherent performance of the steel.
With the Pronghorn I was fairly determined to solve the problem

Citori,

Most of us aren't using steel, we are using knives.

This comment makes a lot of sense to me. In my mind, the steel is just one variable in knife performance. The important thing is how all the variables mesh together in the final product. If Cliff plans to test each variable independently then I can see why he wants to alter the way he runs the rope cutting tests. Maybe it would make sense to record the results using both methods? If not then it would seem inconsistent, at least to me, that he just recently expoused the merits of the edge geometry regardless of the quality of the steel, but is now looking to remove it's effects from his tests.

-Jose
 
Jeff, that is an interesting idea. However I am not sure if you can cut rope unsupported, which is why I thought the tension would be necessary. Your idea would however be much faster cutting that what I was thinking of though, which would be great. I will try it out and see what happens.

Yog :

The handle shape plays a big part in how much of the force you exsert is transmitted to the cutting portion of the blade.

Yes, but the scale doesn't care about this, all it sees is how much force is exerted on the rope. Those other aspects are however important and come into other sections on ergonomics and overall efficiency issues.

Such influences are also very strong for a lot of cutting such as wood whittling. While blade geomtery is critical here, ergonomics have a large influence as it can limit the level of tolerable force applied, and there can be issues with leverage depending on the blade shape. Such aspects are explored in the reviews.

... blade weight, centre of balance etc,

These are not significant on rope cutting as done in the above, as the force they exert isn't enough to cut the rope at all, even on the heaviest of blades, it is less than a percent of the total force.

The blade curvature can be a factor, which is why I started using a small section in the beginning, as I could flat regions of 2" in length on most blades.

Of course for free hanging cuts, or chopping, weight and balance are directly linked to how much power than can be generated and thus are as important as blade geometry, unless you want to just use a baton which can be used to isolate geometry.

Citori :

I realize you are attmepting to assess the steel (or HT) alone and thus need to improve your testing, but for most of us this is very useful information as it stands. Most of us aren't using steel, we are using knives.

Yes, I didn't mean to imply that cutting rope in that manner isn't useful, just that it tests geometry rather strongly. Any decently done comparative test is informative, regardless of how isolated the influences are. The critical part is how you interpret it.

Jose :

... it would seem inconsistent, at least to me, that he just recently expoused the merits of the edge geometry regardless of the quality of the steel, but is now looking to remove it's effects from his tests.

It is one test in the review, not the whole thing. Reviews contain multiple pieces of work which are strongly dependent on just geometry, such as the initial perforamance on the hemp, wood whittling, chopping etc. .

The point made here was that test was not a good one to isolate steel performance, not that it isn't informative as a while. As I noted, it makes a strong statement about the influence geometry can have on edge retention.

blademan 13 :

[higher cutting efficiency]

... how long they will continue to cut after they have somewhat dulled.

Yes, a good point which was brought out by Mike Swaim on rec.knives many years ago, who was the first I saw argue the very simple but yet rather profound point that if a knife is much more efficient at cutting, then it can easily have a longer edge lifetime than another knife with better edge retention which doesn't cut as efficiently. This fact has been in my reviews almost since the beginning with many examples of such contrasts.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

OK, makes sense. Do you write a summary at the end of your testing or will you just post each test seperately?

-Jose
 
I usually don't post it in pieces, as I like to repeat most of the work many times to confirm the expected behavior. And pieces can often be deceptive as it is the overall performance that is of interest. Any knife will look very bad on some work and very good on others.

A review will look like this generally :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/camp_tramp.html

They contain a section on the specifics of the knives, some stock tests which can be readily compared to other knives, usually a similar one is reference directly, a part on general work and scope of use, and often some comment on general design issues. Tests to failure may also be done depending on a few factors.

The reviews are updated periodically on my knives with extended use. There are still a few things to be done with the Camp Tramp. Some additions may be added to the review depending on what comes up in the thread here on Bladeforms. The Camp Tramp review has a couple of examples of such commentary.

I made the couple of posts about the Pronghorn, as the rope cutting test was being changed and I had talked a lot about it in the past and wanted as well to solicit ideas. The carpet cutting was specifically asked for by a few, and it didn't go as I had expected so I talked about that a little so feedback could be given on method.

There has already been a lot of other work done with the Pronghorn, grip work in various positions as well as lubricated with animal fats, general kitchen work, utility work, various stock tests and such. It all needs to be repeated a few times as a consistency check, but I should be in a position by monday to put up a link to a first stage review.

Back to the rope cutting :

I found a blindly obvious solution last night which was to just extend the rope over the end of a 4x4 and cut it basically parallel to the surface of the wood. However this is very demanding on a knife in regards to cutting ability. An Opinel could do it, but I don't think a lot of other knives are going to be capable of making the cut. The rope tends to bend down and thus the knife just slices out leaving the bottom uncut.

Jeff, I rigged up a box like you suggested and it worked well. The rope is stiff enough that it can support itself over the hole and thus allow a more complete cut. I also tested holding the rope down as if it was in a tube and it helped as well. So I just need to get a small piece of plastic now to form a pseudo-clamp and guide track, the track is now just cut into the wood and the rope fits in there tightly.

-Cliff
 
If you have a long drill bit of the appropriate diameter you could simply drill a hole through the block lengthwise. Then you could use a thin saw to cut a transverse slot and a v-notch for blade clearance. I like this approach best. If your bit is only 3 inches long you could use a 3 inch block and then nail the block to a longer board for stability.
 
Hallo!
One of the things that became obvious to me about a year and a half ago, when I began building the knife that passed the ABS test was that there are a BUNCH of differetn kinds of MANILLA rope!

I ordered some one inch from a company in AZ. It was oiled, and had little plastic cords running through it. It was hauser quality rope.
My knife cut it fine. And it was the rope I took with me to Mr' Fowler's shop for the test. By the the by, I use hard maple as a backing to do my cuts on. I figure it has an affect on the edge, and can be considered as part of the test.

Point of fact, at the Blade school they use non-oiled manilla rope. It cuts with little resistance.

So when you mention this rope or that rope, maybe you could be a bit more precise.

Since everything else you are doing is so scientifical you might as well include that. Did you include the humidity on the days you were making the cuts? Sometimes sweaty rope cuts different? How about freezing the rope so it will cut more precisely?

The long and short of it is, that makers test there blades for a variety of applications. Do not try to attack one test as the end all and be all. Most makers I know use rope cutting as a general frame of reference. They most certainly conduct other tests for quality control and performance measurement.

Just some thoughts.

Shane
 
Cliff,
Do you make knives? Or do you just play? I hear you telling
everybody how to do it...but is it just talk? Put up or...?
You finish the sentence.

If you do make knives, maybe you should send Mr. Fowler one of
yours and let him test it. (Turn about and fairness.)As much hate
and discontent as you spread, it would only be right to see what all your fuss is about.

C'mon, if we're gonna dance. Let's dance!

Tired of all the nonsense.

Shane
 
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