problems with hemp rope cutting as a test of edge retention

brownshoe :

... measuring force pulling???

I actually ignore this as it is so slight its effect on the total work done isn't significant, this is also due to the difference in body mechanics between the two. I would agree however that it would be of benefit to determine it for the sake of completeness. This was mentioned in several reviews (and threads) talking about the efficiency on a slices of various finishes.

This would include speed of blade.

The draws should be done in a consistent manner, not because of the effect it has on the force, but because very fast draws induce blunting greater than slower ones, I am not sure if this is due to possibly overheating, or just the greater energies imparted on the blade (I keep meaning to look at this with M2 or similar which would rule out the heating). I have looked at the cutting ability as depending on speed of draw, generally is it best in a slow quasi-static manner for reasons of control.

... you need to express your test results in those quantitative parameters.

Yes, when possible this is done. If you feel critical factors are being ignore then cite them and the nature and mangitude of their effect so they can then be considered and hopefully taken into account.

The best approach would be to build a cutting machine ...

Why ignores critical factors which are induced when a knife is used by a person and thus violates the very principles you outline. I would however agree that materials testing should be done on knives, I would like to see hardness, yield and tensile strength, charpy values (notched and not), ductility and corrosion tests on all the steels used in knives. of course science is always restriced by money. Anyone who doesn't think so has never worked in a research lab. There are always improvements you could make if you had more money (and time of course).

shane justice :

The first was the claim that animal skins are like carpet due to dirt and grit. What animals would that be?

Animals with hair long enough to contain dirt that you don't wash before you skin.

What animals have you skinned?

Seal, and small game like rabbits. I have done this in a very basic sense, I would not consider myself proficient at it. I have just done it to do it and look at the basic cutting mechanics. Techniques on this differ of course, many prefer to do little cutting and pull or flay off skins.

What animals have you hunted? What animals have you used in your testing?

I used to fish a lot, salt and freshwater, from trout to eel to shark. I have caught small game mainly, usually with primitive means, sling, snare and the like, birds, rabbit and smaller. I intended to go up to Labrador for Carbiou last year, but was too busy, same for this year. Hopefully I will make some time next year.

The same comment in any case you can find all over bladeforums, how the hair of some animals will trap dirt and grit, which seems quite obvious to me. This was the case with most animals I have seen which were not washed on a regular basis. The town in which I live was one generation ago all farm land, so I grew up with plenty exposure to pigs, sheep, cows and the like, and saw the natural state of the skin, and this was with restricted behavior as they lived in barns which were constantly washed.

Even horses, which don't tend to be as dirty still need to be cleaned on a regular basis. The horses on the family farm were brushed every single day to prevent the excess buildup of dirt in the hair. Lots of people in my extended family also hunt on a regular basis, usually bear or caribou and I have talked to them about it from time to time. Usually showing them knives I have used. I keep meaning to send them knives to use.

In general though, my main interests are in utility knives, both large and small, which is the vast majority of the reviews. I have never actaully reviewed a dedicated skinning knife.


Did you ever suspect that a skinning knife is a specialty knife?

It would be obvious than any knife which is so labeled "XXX knife", is a speciality knife restricted to XXX type of use. This of course doesn't mean that I would restrict use to that for reasons described in the above.

How many outfitters do you know?

None.

Do you know anybody who works in a meat packing plant? Have you asked THEM about the type of cutting they do?

Fish plants are a large local business and they knives are cheap as dirt. Usually cheap production knives with plastic handles, stainless blades, ~440A class or less. However the same individuals responded very strongly to high quality knives I lent them. All tended to respond though they would not spend that kind of money for a work tool.

Alvin Johnson (a knifemaker who posts on rec.knives) makes knives for individuals who work in meat plants. His knives are either M2 or 1095 at full hardness, 64-66 HRC. The individuals who used his knives all commented that the edge retention and overally functionality was leagues better than anything else they have used.

His knives made *excellent* carpet cutters as well, he has used the same designs for that. This isn't surprising considering the qualities of M2 at that hardness.

I really loved the test where you took a camp knife into the kitchen. Did you really expect it to peel and dice like a chef's knife?

No, the point was to show the difference in performance. Camp knives can be geared towards the heavy end or the light end. Joe Talmadges camp knife for example works almost as well as a turely optomized kitchen knife, as that was the area which he wanted the performance slanted towards.

...why don't you hire a lab

I work in a lab, and every day discuss the methods used with those in my lab, and with those in other fields. I go to conferences on a regular basis to do the same thing, and publish articles in peer reviewed journals as well to get feedback on the work done.

The same general principles for robust analysis I use when working with knives, not nearly as strict of course, as it is a hobby. You are also without benefit of grants for funding which limits work.

Pen :

I've never felt like Cliff has made himself the ultimate authority...

No, this is why I ask for suggestions on tests (always have even from the start), the reviews contain links to other work, why blades are sent out to other people, why I read other reviews, why I talk to makers, etc. .

db :

Cliff that is a good idea to send out knives to others. I hope they comment on their results ...

They generally don't because of posts like the above. Step back and look at ad hominem posts made by Shane and others :

You SIR, are a PRYING, PIP SQUEAKING ASS!

Such a comment is not indented to be constructive and promote such commentary.

I did know you did this 1 time before with Cougar and a Talonite knife but never did see his results on it.

All blades (and other things like sharpening equipment) that I have used that were not destroyed or requested to be returned to the maker are all now in someone elses hands. Often this is made pubic in the reviews, some of them like Joe Talmadge, Will Kwan, Marion Poff, and Andrew Lynch, have commented about the knives and made threads on the subject. When they do bring up points that were radically different than mine they are discussed to determine the reason for the difference.

do you really think Cliff's tests would really be the same if people didn't question him or his methods

None of the above personal attack have any effect on me or what I do with knives, it is laughable to think anything constructive comes out of such commentary. In many of the posts it is clear that nothing could be done to please the individuals involved. In the recent Pronghorn thread I got attacked for both abusing the knife by using it for heavy work (before the review was competed), and saying it should not be so used. It isn't difficult to thus realize that no matter what was done the attacks would still be made.

I also got heavily attacked in the same thread for being biased. Yet this thread is evidence of me changing a test because of internal skew which lowers the performance of the Pronghorn. Note absolutely no comment by the posters who made statements that I would in fact intentionally chose tests to do the opposite. Those types of personal posts hardly improve reviews, mine or otherwise, they are not intended to be constructive.

The reviews however have evolved through many interactions with people actually interested in performance, such as the posts Jeff Clark has made in this thread, this is one of the main reasons I make these threads. This is usually noted in the review when a test was suggested by someone, or it was altered due to comments they made which indicates how it can be done better. If anyone reads a review where I have left this out drop me an email.

stich, sph3ric pyramid, swede79 and others, this is the goal. I am glad to see they have helped you in some way.

To address a comment Jeff made in the above about the volume of work I do. I tend to cover a lot of ground with knives, this got started because I was interested in the effect of various aspects so need to gather a large pool of knives to work out the details. It then became habit, and interesting as I would predict peformance based on what I had done in the past and refine my understanding.

There are lots of people who do as much work as I do, possibly even more when reviewing a knife. The obvious example is on the HI forum. These are serious users who do vast volumes of work on the khukuris, Pen for example has done lots of work I always intended to do, which I am very grateful for because now I don't have to do it. There are lots of excellent reviews being written, and they continue to improve, inspite of rants such as the above.

The HI forum is a model for how to encourage reviews. Bill Martino doesn't promote his blades at all, he has tested them extensively, but instead has always encouraged those interested to ask other users. He is not afraid of any feedback as he has done the work and is confident of the abiltiies of the knives. The reviews are never attacked, even when the performance of the knife is less than stellar.

Recently Pen reviewed khukuri which suffered some blade damage during use, the performance was discussed, the problem was fixed with some modifications by Pen. The reviews are hardly all positive hype, yet there is absolutely no movement to attack them at all.

-Cliff
 
Not that this thread can be dragged up from the mire, but I'll make a note about 'trash' in animal skins.

I've probably skinned a couple of hundred coyotes, wolves, foxes, various weasels, and other animals that live in burrows. Most of them had so much debris in their pelts that you could not have washed it all out even if you wanted to. The only way I've ever gotten one squeaky clean was after skinning. Most of those animals were case skinned, so there were only a couple of small cuts made on the fur side.
 
Originally posted by shane justice
Dear Cliff,
It wouldn't take much effort to pick apart your testing procedures. Testing really is not the issue.

Last time you tried to do that you didn't really seem to know the subject.

Your comments on the thin blade prove a lack of experience regarding practical knife design. This lack of perception on your part, of the the basics of form and function, causes difficulty.
I have no practical experience with knife design. Though I have 2 lades custom made by my drawings, but that's far from design. Does that mean I don't qualify to use my knives?

What have you contributed?
He contributed his time, money, and honest opinion about the knives he worked with. The question is what have you contributed?


The first was the claim that animal skins are like carpet due to dirt and grit. What animals would that be?
:) You donno any anymals with hair?

I really loved the test where you took a camp knife into the kitchen. Did you really expect it to peel and dice like a chef's knife? What incredible stupidity!
A lot of forumites use their camp and other knives in the kitchen. To test the knife itself and compare performance with other knives including kitchen knives. Again, you're insulting based on your assumptions, which are not correct anyway.

Have them age a blade ten years in a six month cycle at 70,000 feet altitude. Then have them freeze it, then bake it, then test it using machines that give specific results based on fact rather than opinion. I can promise they will not use terms like "BLAZING SHARP!"

For one using camp knife in the kitchen seems to be a lot more practical than hanging it up there 70,000 ft above and aging it. Second, he measures the edge sharpness in gramms using the scale. That's the most precise I've seen on the forums. Everyone else including myself, uses terms shaving sharp, scary sharp, etc. Out of curiosity would be nice to see your review of any knife where you'd provide more specific data.

When was the last time you ever enjoyed watching the stars without wondering what was behind them?
You know, if everyone was like you, just wathing and not ever asking questions we'd still be sure the earth was flat, and perhaps still using stone knives.

make sure your bed is made.
Based on overall tone of your messages that applies to you a lot more.

Until then the best words for you come from John Wayne in his last movie,"You SIR, are a PRYING, PIP SQUEAKING ASS!"
And who do you think U are? John Wayne? Name calling and insults are specifically prohibited here.

You create nothing. You produce nothing.
Rephrasing Ed Fowlers story huh? Nice and comfy, jumping on the bandwagon isn't it. You don't even have to think what to write.
 
shane justice,

When you have contributed 10% of what Cliff has to the knife world, then speak up with all your various, holier-than-thou criticisms. Until then, why don't you keep them to yourself? You can mutter them when you walk around your workshop.

Wait...let's make that 5%. Is that fair? Let's give it a few years and see where you're at.

Johnny
 
More rope cutting was done this weekend, 10 rounds in total have been done with the Pronghorn so far (4 rounds on the backing board, 4 rounds without while I was working the bugs out, and then two more decent ones). I want to do at least a couple more rounds with different rolls of rope (bought more on saturday). The carpet cutting is also approaching a decent conclusion and I'll run some cardboard trials next. Then comes the wood work, that is left last as the edge on the Pronghorn is very thin, ~0.005", so I have concerns about some of it, mainly baton work, splitting and the like. Carving on hardwoods, and chopping on various woods will be done first.

As a side note, I used a CPM-10V blade (62/63 HRC) for one of the comparisons, It had developed a pronounced secondary edge bevel from me being lazy about sharpening. An attempt was made to remove this with the same waterstones I had been using on the Pronghorn and other blades. This made little effect on the 10V edge. I should get my 220 SIC waterstone chunked up into a few 1x4" blocks. The edge was reground using some DMT stones, it worked readily under the Diamond. It might be hard compared to the waterstones, but it is butter to the diamonds.

As a further complication, when cutting the rope it is fairly difficult to get an even slice along the blade. Thus blunting tends to set in unevenly. The work was started with a push (because I found it easier than a pull), and the edge tends to blunt more at the start. As blunting sets in the blade slips over the blunted region and then wear gradually creeps down. What this means is that if you look at long term effects (100+ cuts) you never notice this, but it can give some odd effects at first so you want to be careful to measure sharpness all along the contact region. The ideal method would seem to be push and pull on alternating strokes. I should really think about some of these things before doing the work.

Gator, the threat of "tearing up the reviews" has been used many times, first was by McClung. This is a really lame threat. There are only two possible outcomes, the first is that the "tearing up" would be meaningless, just emotional ranting - nothing to be concerned about. The second would be that actual problems would be pointed out (and of course solutions offered), this would then mean that the work would improve. That isn't something to be afraid of.

In reality I am far more harsh on what I have done than comments made by Shane in the above. This is why I don't do things the same as they were done in the past because I realize there are better ways, and why the reviews are filled with comments as they are updated pointing out flaws in the method and reasoning.

McClung also argued that I wasn't qualified to review his knives, not because I wasn't a maker, but because I wasn't a materials engineer. Both of these are laughable conditions. I have learned a great deal from many posters on Bladeforums, as far as I know they are not knifemakers, and I have no idea of they are engineers or not, I never asked. Not that you would need to be either to know if a knife works well or not.

-Cliff
 
Comparing two different knives is easy, measure the sharpness, cut some stuff, measure the sharpness again. Check and see if one blunted more than the other. It gets complicated if you try to use two knives to compare steels, because any part of the knife which is different can influence the edge retention.

To measure the sharpness you basically want to cut something very fine in a way which allows you to be quantitative, that means you have to be able to put a number on it. It can be as simple as slicing a piece of newspring and seeing how far out from the point at which it is held before you can't make a cut, or cutting something very slight like thread or cord and measuring the amount of force required.

-Cliff
 
Aside from all the personal attacks, there was some really excellent reading in this thread. Thank you for bringing it back up or I probably would have never seen it.

I agree with the proposition that geometery of the blade can have a profound effect on edge retention. Given the thickness and profile of the two knives being compared (with the disclaimer that I have never seen a Pronghorn in person let alone used one) the results seen were about what I would expect (with a variation in degree).

The main reason is the massive difference in cutting ability. Consider an Opinel which starts cutting rope at 10 lbs compared to another knife which starts at 30 lbs.

Even if the other knife stays sharper longer, the Opinel has a 20 lbs head start. I run like a wounded Wildebeast, but if you give me enough of a head start I can outrun anyone.

Exactly right!

I cut a significant amount of cardboard into strips this weekend (needed for a craft project for my children), the only knives I used were a Victorinox Camper (my primary pocket knife) and Schrade Old Timer Stockman (another pocket knife that gets carried, I don't usually carry a tactical type knife at all). Despite having soft steel (relative to the ~60RC that si often seen on many knives) both of these knives cut massive amounts of cardboard before they were too dull to continue. Why? Because they cut well to begin with, and have thin edges and spines.

I bought a Cold Steel SRK from a knifemaker a few years back, he had never used it, but had polished the edge on a leather buffing wheel to a literal mirror finish. The edge was very thick, but it was freaky sharp, could cut light thread with the barest of pressure, and could shave hair above the skin line with no pressure at all. This knife was sharp.

When I used it to cut up a few boxes, it dulled super fast. Why, because the blade and edge profile were key components to the knife's overall performance, and readily swamped out things like metal hardness, wear resistance and initial sharpness (not the 50100B or whatever the Carbon V was is an especially hard or wear resistant steel, just an illustration.)
 
knifetester said:
...geometery of the blade can have a profound effect on edge retention.
This was one of the myths that Mike really attacked on re.knives; when you lower the profile of an edge that the knife loses cutting ability faster. He never argued that durability was lost, this is trivial, but that on many types of cutting that the level of required durability is so low than you can bring an edge right down into the primary grind and still not undercut it.

Beyond this he also knew that what you see in blunting is the *difference* in sharpness and that if you do something to radically increase the cutting ability, even if it blunts faster the lifetime of the edge is longer. This was a real step forward in thinking about knife performance, implied in this reasoning is the difference between sharpness and cutting ability which people still confuse to this day.

Joe was one of the first guys to really quantify a lot of these assertions, he took stock knives, resharpened and reprofiled them and showed the massive difference that you could make to knives with 10-20 minutes work, improvements in hundreds of percent were possible. You could take a cheap production and make it both sharper, with better cutting ability and a better edge lifetime than a custom costing 10x more.

-Cliff
 
Shane:
Such a machine already exsists, its the CATRA machine and there 24 in use in the world, so how many knife enthusiasts do you think have one in their basement. If you are so eager, why don't you sent out some knifes to CATRA (they have two machines) to refute Cliff? All I read are typical armchair remarks. And even the CATRA machine performs a measurement that is limited in its applicability.

If you think about it, measuring sharpness is not easy. Especially when you want to compare different edge finishes and knifes with different edge or blade geometry.

Personally, I was nevery really happy with Cliff's thread test, I felt that it didn't really represent a true push cut, BUT regardless of whether it really answers the question you are asking or not, it IS a consistent measurement and I will admit very frankly, even though I thought about it for quite some time now, I can not come with anything better either.

If for nothing else, I think you should respect Cliff for the experience he has with many, many different knives and how he obtained that experience. I am pretty sure that I have had my Manix long than he had his, but I doubed that I have more experience with it. After all, what do I use my knives for? Even in a scientific lab (in which I happen to work as well, and you are welcome to do a google search for my name) experience is of great importance.

If you have really some scientific issues with his testing, I thought that Cliff was alway open to discussion. I have disagreed with him on a couple of occasions, which let to a productive discussion and usually to a clarification of different premises.

Totally off topic: Hey Cliff, is it correct that you are doing vibrational spectroscopy?
 
On the other hand, it should be noted that thin edge geometery may be adverse to edge holding under different cutting situations. Above, the effects of more acute geometery was determined to be positive on abbrasive materials, like hemp rope and cardboard. However, when cutting materials that tend to dull an edge by deformation (edge roll, denting, etc) then a thicker edge (which is stronger, meaning that it is less prone to deformation) will last longer. Strength can actually come from either geometery (thicker cross sections are stronger than thinner obviously) or by increasing the hardness of the steel and relying on the material properties.

What types of materials dull an edge by deformation? Hard plastics and soft metals (think cutting thick packaging, tubing, deburring aluminum and brass) as well as many sythetic materials (Formica, etc).

Even wood carving in seasoned hardwoods can readily deform an edge, despite the wood being much softer than even annealed steel. When carving, you may have to apply lateral pressure to a very discrete (small) part of the edge, concentrating the pressure. On softer steels, this deformation can be readily corrected with a quick burnishing. Harder steels will resist this deformation, and are thus optimal for suc work, see many Japanese wood working tools, as well as M2 (one of my favorite steels) in Western high end wood working tools.

On large chopping tools, thinner geometery may result in no edge holding, that is the edge could be functionally damaged on the first blow if too thin. At this level though I tend to think of it as durablity issue rather than edge holding, however I suppose in the strictest sense such failures demonstrate lack of edge holding with the dulling mechanism either being gross deformation or metal loss at the edge.

This was one of the myths that Mike really attacked on re.knives

Yes, many myths have been debunked in recent years. It was from lurking on Rec.knives that I came to appreciate the sharpening attriubutes of very hard steels. The traditional wisdom is that very hard steels are very hard to sharpen. This of course is not true, since they abbrade cleanly (minimal burr formation) they can be quite easy to sharpen if the original edge geometery was proper since there is actually very little metal to remove and modern abbrasives are much harder than even full hard steels.

It is actually the highly alloyed stainless steels when run soft that are the hardest to sharpen. They are hard to abbrade (lots of carbides) and form terrible burrs that are floppy and very hard to remove. Carbide formation occurs before the tempering stage, so they are basically uneffected by tempering the steel to a softer RC. This is very ironic since the justification for runing them (High alloy stainless steels such as S30V) soft is that it makes sharpening easier.

The only stainless steel knives I use regularly have 12c27 (which is excellent with a proper heat treat) or similiar steel, i.e. Victorinox stainless.
 
knifetester said:
On the other hand, it should be noted that thin edge geometery may be adverse to edge holding under different cutting situations.
Yes, if the edge is thinned beyond the required functional durability it will collapse readily. I thinned out a mild steel blade for example to the point where it failed on hemp rope, one cut and the edge just folded. However up to that point the thinning was greatly accelerating performance. For other harder materials more steel is needed behind the edge, user ability and method come into play as well.

It is actually the highly alloyed stainless steels when run soft that are the hardest to sharpen.
I think a difference should be made between shaping the edge and sharpening it. It is very difficult to shape M2 at 66 HRC, but easy to actually sharpen it. It is very easy to shape AISI 420, but very difficult to actually sharpen it as the edge is floppy.

User standards are an issue here as well, it is pretty easy to get any steel to slice a piece of paper, but I would not consider that sharp, that is about 25% of optimal sharpness or less, which is the ability to push right into fine newsprint, shave hair above the skin, and yes you can get this even with a coarse edge.

Of course shaping the edge should only be done once, unless the knife is damaged in use, the user should only be sharpening not shaping, especially on customs, and even production knives now like Busse are offering custom edge shaping on request.

So what the knife is used for is important as well, M2 would be a hard steel to keep sharp if you were using it for a rough field knife as the edge would get routinely damaged on hard impacts and thus need a lot of shaping, for that I would go with something simple like 1075.

HoB said:
Personally, I was nevery really happy with Cliff's thread test, I felt that it didn't really represent a true push cut
It is difficult to constrain it, if the edge is tilted at all, then the thread will slip and it becomes a draw cut. It is also really isolated, which is good because it lets you focus on a tiny part of the blade, but this also makes it problematic because you need to take a lot of readings to get a decent average or else you can get really mislead
[*]. Jeff suggested ribbon awhile ago which I tried but the problem then becomes one of way too much force required.

On most NIB blades for example it is common for the readings to jump like 50,90,125,150,75 . If you just took a couple you could get really different impressions, consider 50 & 75 vs 125 & 150. Slicing really light cord or thin hemp is a much more consistent measurement of sharpness (measuring draw though), and it is also *much* faster to do than cutting thread.

-Cliff
 
Yes, those were my concerns about the thread cutting. But also, I would wish for a less fibrous material, one with greater cohesion if you will (something that isn't made of individual strands that get cut successively. If there would be a way to load a piece of paper with weight,...but I haven't figured out how to do that and it still doesn't get around the problem of sampling only a small part of the blade. And lastly, I kind of think that a push cut test should simulate the fact that even in a push cut there is motion. The thread test is essentially static, and will at best simulate the initiation of the cut.

But again: I haven't been able to think of something better than the thread test and until I or somebody else does I think the thread test is better than no test at all. And there is nothing wrong with the consistency of the test. What does Mr. Glesser always say: As long as there is testing there is room for improvement (that is paraphrased of course).

Do you ever get tired of tying those loops with this thin thread? I annoys the hell out of me :rolleyes:. I guess that's what I like least about this test :D .

P.S. Yes, I realize that even paper is essentially made of fibrous material.
 
I still like the idea of something "tape-like". How about audio recording tape from audio cassettes? The quality control on it is rather high so that it won't break and yet it is very thin to allow higher recording time on a small reel.
 
Tape like

Yeah! That is a really good idea, me thinks. Have you tried that already?
 
HoB said:
... a push cut test should simulate the fact that even in a push cut there is motion. The thread test is essentially static, and will at best simulate the initiation of the cut.
Yes, but you are looking at sharpness here, not cutting ability so you want just the start of the cut. You can look at cutting ability by cutting thicker material like plastic cord which Dave did some with with awhile ago.

Do you ever get tired of tying those loops with this thin thread?
You are talking to someone who has spent hours aligning mirrors by moving them in fractions of degrees and checking transmitted intensity over and over and over. Better or worse, better or worse.

I have tried a few light ribbons, the problem is that the force required is very large, consider than the width on even slight ribbons is ~100 times wider than light thread so the force required is huge.

I should pick up a few sensors and hook them up to the TI-89.

-Cliff
 
I take aligning over tying knots into thin thread any day. At least our mirrors have finger-sized adjustment knobs....but then again, I have been doing alignments for a lot longer than owning a decent folder.

What kind of sensors are you thinking?
 
The last mirror alignment I did had three independent mirrors knocked out of alignment by an over excited grad student and all three needed to be adjusted along the three axis to catch an image of a filament less than 1 mm thick on a PbS sensor about the same thickness which meant that the image had to be near perfect in parallel with the sensor, any tilt and the intensity dropped to next to nothing, plus it had to be N2 (l) cooled. Was a fun way to spend an afternoon.

Vernier makes force probes which you can run into a TI-83 or better. You could for example press a knife into a piece of hemp and record the force as you are cutting through it, see how it increases. Compare hemp to poly, different sizes, see if chisel vs v-grind acts differently with respect to wedging. Then there are larger floor plates you can use to study impacts such as chopping etc., whack a knife into a piece of wood and compare the penetration while measuring the impact forces, etc. . You can even buy acceleration probes you could attach to a large knife and measure swing speeds, accelerations, etc., look at balance, heft issues etc. .

If I actually did work for Busse or similar company this is the kinds of things I would be playing with. Cost around $1000 to set up a TI based lab, $1500 for a palm based station, $2000 for a desktop work setting, including computers for all. I meant to set this up for myself awhile ago, I just keep thinking, well $2000 on measuring equipment, or a new 14" brush knife from Ray, a pathfinder from Martin, and an extended Battle Rat from Swamp Rat. The knives usually win. You can pick them up on ebay as well for of course a lot less I check there from time to time, just search for vernier.

-Cliff
 
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