Pulaski re-hang (pic heavy)

Square_peg said:
Calculated? I thought I was just being anal.
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I always see the best in people...it's a gift that I have really. :p (Insert super sarcastic tone.)
 
SamuraiDave said:
I'm off for a larger rasp!
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I'd recommend a farrier's rasp. They are huge, cheap, and work great. Plus, if you know a farrier you can probably get the throw aways for free. Most farriers don't waste a second on an even slightly dulled rasp. They need to be fast to make a living, and view rasps more like a disposable product than most tools.
 
M3mphis said:
I'd recommend a farrier's rasp.
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I recommend a wood rasp. I use the curved side much more than the flat side. I have larger and smaller ones then the one pictured but I prefer that size for detail work on axe handles. I use larger ones when making a handle from scratch. For the rasp to be efficient the work needs to be secured in a vise.
 
Square_peg said:
I recommend a wood rasp. I use the curved side much more than the flat side. I have larger and smaller ones then the one pictured but I prefer that size for detail work on axe handles. I use larger ones when making a handle from scratch. For the rasp to be efficient the work needs to be secured in a vise.
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That's funny, my curved wood rasps never leave the shelf!
 
I went to Home Depot to see what they had.

Their Nicholson files are now made in Columbia. What a disappointment.
The teeth aren't a standard shape across the file, like the machine missed one here and another there. Also, although the rasp is made from a curved profile piece of steel, if you look at the teeth they are cut so that it will rasp flat.

I'm going to have to find a farrier, or maybe check out what the local woodworking stores have.

Perhaps this is a good time to finally refurbish my draw knives, as they just don't make things like they used to.
 
SamuraiDave said:
......or maybe check out what the local woodworking stores have.

Perhaps this is a good time to finally refurbish my draw knives, as they just don't make things like they used to.
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There's still good stuff out there at the woodworker's stores. There must be a Rockler in Dallas.
 
Square_peg said:
To each their own.
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My farriers rasp seldom comes out of the drawer.
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I don't use the farriers much either. Seems I prefer to use the flat surface of the rasp on round surfaces and the round part of a rasp on flat surfaces.
 
SamuraiDave said:
I went to Home Depot to see what they had.

Their Nicholson files are now made in Columbia. What a disappointment.
The teeth aren't a standard shape across the file, like the machine missed one here and another there. Also, although the rasp is made from a curved profile piece of steel, if you look at the teeth they are cut so that it will rasp flat.

I'm going to have to find a farrier, or maybe check out what the local woodworking stores have.

Perhaps this is a good time to finally refurbish my draw knives, as they just don't make things like they used to.
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Dave, In my experience the nicholson no 49 is the best that you can buy. The 50 is good also but the teeth are to close for me.
 
Square_peg said:
House sells Pulaski handles and I bet they would octagon one for you if you wanted. I wonder how fat they are without the octagoning?

This handle came from Tennessee Hickory through a local retailer. The wood seems exceptional. I deliberately chose one with a grain about 20° off of vertical. With a Pulaski's narrow eye the handle is prone to cracking just below the head from only the merest amount of sideways prying. I think that what we consider 'perfect' grain for an axe isn't necessarily right for a Pulaski.
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That handle came out great.
The Pulaski handles that I have from house run about .8 in width.
That sheath looks great. Think I will go with the same design for my own.
 
M3mphis said:
I can hardly believe the price tag on Council's FSS Pulaski. Wow...
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Yea they are not cheap but do the job we have 40 of them Our trail crew use and abuse we have both models they make the fss which are really nice and the twisted style which also works really well!
 
If they haven't changed suppliers, the "Forestry Suppliers" Pulaski is a Barco. The McLeod they seel is a DI (Dixie Industries) at least up until about 5 years ago. As far as trailwork goes, I use the McLeod about 80% of the time. I do carry a Pulaski, but use it to chop roots for the most part or use the hoe end in a tough hillside. The Pulaski's that I use have a somewhat short life; they get dulled from the dirt and rock and get sharpened in between trail events with files. I have worn out a couple of them. Mine never sees wood.....just dirt and rock. I have been a longtime customer of Forestry Suppliers located down South in Jackson, MS. I'm confused about the Council Tools website. I see the two Pulaski models and the price difference. Might kind of be like the $300.00 government toilet seat deal. The more $$ one does look like it comes with a sheath.

Jon
 
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jonc123 said:
Mine never sees wood.....just dirt and rock.
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Most of them used in trail work are too dull to do anything with wood. But I figured that there's plenty of beater pulaskis out with a trail crew to handle the dirty work. It's nice to have one kept out of the dirt and kept sharp enough for chopping wood. For insurance purposes the local trail-owning jurisdictions (state, county) don't allow volunteer trail groups to use chainsaws. So fallen logs have to be taken either with an axe or a crosscut saw.
 
Most of the volunteer work I do is in the Mark Twain National Forest for the most part. Volunteers can get chainsaw certification through the Forest Service, they have classes ever so often. I think it amounts to a couple weekend sessions, one indoor and one outdoor. I am not certified. I prefer to work on the tread or trim the overgrowth back. Wife and I use our own equipment, we have a couple Pulaskis and McLeods painted bright orange to make them look different....won't think I'm stealing the FS stuff when I load them in my truck!!
 
Good on you for doing volunteer trail work! It's a great way gain skill with your tools while giving back the community and adding value to your public lands.

We have chainsaw and crosscut saw certification classes up here, too. But the local jurisdictions still won't let a volunteer run a chainsaw even if they're certified. Crosscut saw teams must have at least one leader who is crosscut certified. It's weird, when I'm working for the county DNR I can run a chainsaw all day long because I've had their class. But if I volunteer on a trails project on state land I can't even run a crosscut crew because I'm not certified.
 
It's probably a good deal that you need the training and certification. A chainsaw in the hands of an expert logger is dangerous, you can't let down your guard. A chainsaw in the hands of a volunteer is extremely dangerous. If you get hurt out in the middle of your trail a mile or two from your vehicle you have a major problem. I think 3 people minimun are required to take a chainsaw out. One person saws, the other two carry supplies. If someone gets hurt, one stays with the injured and the other gets help. Wife and I have two of the second largest folders Silky makes. It's just amazing what they can do. We just saw the stuff laying across the trail, nothing standing. We can take care of probably 80% of them with the Silky. The rest we just report and eventually they are taken care of.
 
jonc123 said:
Wife and I have two of the second largest folders Silky makes. It's just amazing what they can do. We just saw the stuff laying across the trail, nothing standing. We can take care of probably 80% of them with the Silky.
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I recently added a Silky Big-Boy to my trail tools set. First day out I cleared a 15" maple with it. It ain't a crosscut but for something that fits in your Carhart side pocket it's pretty amazing.
 
I was out on trail crew again today and got a lot of work out of this Pulaski. It's still working like a champ. I've use it many times since I started this thread. That handle is amazing. It feels so good in the hand. I've had several trail work veterans comment on it - "best they've ever used", etc. And the FS spec bit holds an edge great. It's a real work horse in every respect. I think I use the adze end more than the axe but it's sure nice to have that razor sharp axe when you need it.
 
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