Quenching Oil Question

Big Smitty

Big Smitty

Joined
Aug 30, 2007
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I just ordered some McMaster Carr 28 second quenching oil for O1. Would it be acceptable to use this oil for 1084 and 1095? If it is not acceptable what would a good quenching oil be for 1084 and 1095 that can be bought in 5 gal or less quantity at a resonable price?
 
It's probably too slow for 1084 or 1095 steels. They require a pretty fast quench approaching the speed of water. A good oil for them would be Park's #50. Check in the for-sale area here. Patrick (patriq) is selling 5 gallon pails for a reasonable price.

--nathan
 
nathan-I did check in the for sale area and it seems that patrick is having difficulty with his shipping arrangement and is not sending any out. Is there another product that is readily available that i can use? It seems that the quenching oils are hard to get:confused:
 
I have heard that Houghton makes a quenching oil that is faster than their 11-13 second oil (the stuff that is repackaged as Brownell's Tough Quench from what I hear) Tough Quench heated up to 150F is okay for 1075/1080 but I like Parks #50 for anything more shallow hardening than that like Aldo's 1084 and Don's W2. I can tell you from personal experience that Tough quench will leave the thicker portions of a big W2 blade partially unhardened. Room temperature...or more precisely, hot ass Florida shop temperature #50 won't do that. I have only had to heat uo my #50 once and that was this past January when the outside temp was in the 50's.
edit....the oil is Houghton Quench K and it is listed as having a 7-9 second quench time whihc would put it in the same neighborhood as Parks #50.
 
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You're not joking. The companies producing these oils are typically producing for industrial heat treatments. Large quantities (i.e. 55 gallon barrel minimum order) are apparently a norm. I know Heathbath and Houghton will balk at most of us small time knife makers unless you place a ginormous order. Maybe check into the McMaster Carr 9-11 second oil.

Here is a good thread to check out:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5752950

Patrick has ordered the 5th round of oil and will be shipping them as soon as he gets them (I'm eagerly awaiting my 50 and AAA). He's had issues with UPS, but has been able to find alternatives. I don't know how many more rounds he will do, because it takes a good bit of time. You might email him and see what he says. He's always good about keeping us informed and getting back to you.


--nathan
 
BTW, check the for sale area again. Patrick's back in business. Just costs a bit more because of shipping. If Darren Ellis has any in stock you may check there, but I bet it's close to the same or more cost, and he's had trouble keeping it stocked.

--nathan
 
If you have a feed store close by get a gallon of the horse grade mineral oil. I think it should be around 13 bucks for a gallon. I use it for 1084 and 1095 with good success.
 
Alberto V05 moisturizing conditioner or Murphy's oil soap works like magic with most 10XX series steels, and the Murphy's can be used for martempering when mixed with a a little water. :thumbup: They are at your local store while quench oils are really hard to get if you don't have a telephone.
 
Houghton won't give you any trouble if you want to buy a small order from them, they were very helpful when I spoke to them on the phone. They'll sell you smaller orders, but they do charge a premium. I don't think it's as much of a premium as brownell's marked up tough-quench though.

1084 shouldn't be any more shallow hardening than 1080 or 1075. The manganese specification for 1080 and 1084 is the same while the 1075 spec is lower, meaning your 1075 should actually be a faster quenching, shallower hardening steel than 1080/1084. One might even argue that 1075 is closer to 1095 in this regard, although it really seems to fall in the middle ground. Kevin or mete or someone can now feel free to come by and tell me why I'm wrong on this :D
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
Alberto V05 moisturizing conditioner or Murphy's oil soap works like magic with most 10XX series steels, and the Murphy's can be used for martempering when mixed with a a little water. :thumbup: They are at your local store while quench oils are really hard to get if you don't have a telephone.
Click to expand...

But Kevin, won't a moisturizing conditioner promote rust?!?!?!

-d
 
AcridSaint said:
Houghton won't give you any trouble if you want to buy a small order from them, they were very helpful when I spoke to them on the phone. They'll sell you smaller orders, but they do charge a premium. I don't think it's as much of a premium as brownell's marked up tough-quench though.

1084 shouldn't be any more shallow hardening than 1080 or 1075. The manganese specification for 1080 and 1084 is the same while the 1075 spec is lower, meaning your 1075 should actually be a faster quenching, shallower hardening steel than 1080/1084. One might even argue that 1075 is closer to 1095 in this regard, although it really seems to fall in the middle ground. Kevin or mete or someone can now feel free to come by and tell me why I'm wrong on this :D
Click to expand...

Looks good to me, except for how out of touch your are with the common man. Not everybody lives within 500 miles of an internet connnection, telphone or post office, making Houghton products VERY hard to get for the average guy. If however you are a gizillionare that can afford a telephone, they have loads of literature including a little booklet packed full of great information on heat treating that you can read and determine exactly what you need before hiking 500 miles back to the nearest phone to talk to an incredibly helpful rep who will help you out even more and ship you the product, possibly by helicopter:confused:, to your remote doorstep.
 
It's true that rust can be an issue... but the trade-off is that you get a beautiful full-bodied blade with plenty of bounce. Plus, if you use the V05 Highlighting Conditioner, your hamons will really pop.;)

deker said:
But Kevin, won't a moisturizing conditioner promote rust?!?!?!

-d
Click to expand...
 
So of the things that are real easy to get, like peanut oil, corn oil, Murphy's, mineral oil, and a few others which is the best for 10xx or better yet 1084FG?

Kevin I would have never dreamed of using Murphy's Oil Soap.
 
WadeH said:
...Kevin I would have never dreamed of using Murphy's Oil Soap.
Click to expand...

Niether would I, and still wouldn't, but when you proceed down the slippery slope of XXX is cheaper and easier to get than the product made for the application where does one draw the line??? As soon as other factors become more important than optimum heat treatment, why curtail our imaginations at all, as anything could be an equally valid option.

The sad state of affairs surrounding heat treating blades probably had dozens of readers jotting down Murphy's Oil Soap and heading for the local grocery, it is a darn good thing I am more responsible than to suggest gasoline!:eek:
 
Now what am I going to do with all this Alberto V05??? Argh.
 
i'm a little confused here....are you saying that murphy's oil soap is good for quenching 1095 steel or are you just kidding?
 
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