quick question about steel

getting an edc fixed blade made, gonna be a work knife and just overall hard use probably. my steel options are 1095, 1070+CR, and 5160. i was gonna go with 1095 but then was warned about corrosion especially with being in the coastal areas of florida with such high humidity and salt content, then i was told to go with 1070 but i dont know much about steels. what do you guys think would be best?

What is 1070+Cr? Do you have any info on that one. The +Cr part is intriguing.

How big a blade will you have? What do you consider hard use?
 
What is 1070+Cr? Do you have any info on that one. The +Cr part is intriguing.

How big a blade will you have? What do you consider hard use?
this design currently is a 4” blade, in the end i want anywhere from 3.5-4”. truthfully now that i think about it itll be pretty mild as ill be carrying the fastback aswell, but cutting open bags of cement, maybe scoring drywall (if i dont have my fastback on me), stripping wire, maybe light prying (try to avoid as much as possible). basically ill be working on a construction site and/or potentially going to school for one of the 3: HVAC, electrical, or plumbing

i dont have more info but ill look for some.
 
couldnt really find anything, i wonder if its just something that they call it overseas? i dont know, im not the person to ask
 
I do electrical work, senior elect. For the OCSD for 33 years in FWB,on the salt water. A light coat of any light oil over the patina works . You will know when it needs it. What part are you from on that side?
 
this design currently is a 4” blade, in the end i want anywhere from 3.5-4”. truthfully now that i think about it itll be pretty mild as ill be carrying the fastback aswell, but cutting open bags of cement, maybe scoring drywall (if i dont have my fastback on me), stripping wire, maybe light prying (try to avoid as much as possible). basically ill be working on a construction site and/or potentially going to school for one of the 3: HVAC, electrical, or plumbing

i dont have more info but ill look for some.


ok, based on your parameters there is no reason why you couldn't use a stainless steel. But if you want some more toughness why not try AEB-L.
 
Perhaps it's just me, but I find the propensity to demand stainless steels around water to be kind of an eye-roller.

Especially on a forum supposedly full of folks who know how to maintain a knife.

I've been using carbon steel knives on the coast my entire life. None of my blades shows any rust. Salt water rinses off my knives just as easily as blood, grease, glue, plaster etc. I don't crazily slather my blades with axle grease, I don't coat them in Cerakote, I don't pull WD-40 from a quick draw holster and panic fire it at my knife after it gets exposed to the "salt-air" around here.

I clean them and dry them after use. Wow, the insanity.

Some folks even dive into these threads certain that only H1, a'la Spyderco Salt, will survive coastal conditions. Hey, I can see recommending this stuff to folks, it's definitely suited for the salt water environment and will serve users very well. But it's hardly the end-all-be-all steel that people seem to think it is.

OP, you get your knife and use it proudly. It will be just fine, just maintain it like you would any other steel stuff... like your mountain bike or your barbecue... and fret not.
 
What is 1070+Cr? Do you have any info on that one. The +Cr part is intriguing.

How big a blade will you have? What do you consider hard use?

my guess is 1070+Cr is this stuff: '70cs' (since he's in the UK - it only has 0.1% Cr...)
http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/BS/70cs.shtml

hardly any Chrome at all... still basically 1070

5160 will be the toughest of the 3, just go for it ;) (and post pics! we all are suckers for customs)
 
I do electrical work, senior elect. For the OCSD for 33 years in FWB,on the salt water. A light coat of any light oil over the patina works . You will know when it needs it. What part are you from on that side?
gonna be in melbourne, im in tennessee currently, moving down there in a couple months.

Perhaps it's just me, but I find the propensity to demand stainless steels around water to be kind of an eye-roller.

Especially on a forum supposedly full of folks who know how to maintain a knife.

I've been using carbon steel knives on the coast my entire life. None of my blades shows any rust. Salt water rinses off my knives just as easily as blood, grease, glue, plaster etc. I don't crazily slather my blades with axle grease, I don't coat them in Cerakote, I don't pull WD-40 from a quick draw holster and panic fire it at my knife after it gets exposed to the "salt-air" around here.

I clean them and dry them after use. Wow, the insanity.

Some folks even dive into these threads certain that only H1, a'la Spyderco Salt, will survive coastal conditions. Hey, I can see recommending this stuff to folks, it's definitely suited for the salt water environment and will serve users very well. But it's hardly the end-all-be-all steel that people seem to think it is.

OP, you get your knife and use it proudly. It will be just fine, just maintain it like you would any other steel stuff... like your mountain bike or your barbecue... and fret not.
pretty much what i gather is go 1095, 5160, CPM-S35VN, CPM-S30V, or LC200N. all of it will need some sort of care at any point but these are the strongest/best to go with.

i still want to try and find a maker in the US to do this instead.
 
the design i have now is almost a mixture of these two:
benchmade-hidden-canyon.jpg
VP4009GB_1.jpg

i would post the design directly but i dont know if that would be morally okay or not
 
i agree, right now its kinda come to the fact that i want someone in the US who has a little more credibility really. this guy is in another country, just started, and has no presence anywhere really other than a couple posts in a FB group that im in. hes a nice guy, but it kinda worries me.
I'd be cautious to make sure it's not a pakistani made knife. I'd avoid that like the plauge. They go around trying to sell there bad steel with an even worse heat treatment. It's very common. Just be careful.
 
I'd be cautious to make sure it's not a pakistani made knife. I'd avoid that like the plauge. They go around trying to sell there bad steel with an even worse heat treatment. It's very common. Just be careful.
his knives look good qualify and such, he just doesnt have the credibility that id like for just sending $140 to someone
 
this design currently is a 4” blade, in the end i want anywhere from 3.5-4”. truthfully now that i think about it itll be pretty mild as ill be carrying the fastback aswell, but cutting open bags of cement, maybe scoring drywall (if i dont have my fastback on me), stripping wire, maybe light prying (try to avoid as much as possible). basically ill be working on a construction site and/or potentially going to school for one of the 3: HVAC, electrical, or plumbing

i dont have more info but ill look for some.
Thats knife abuse really. When you say prying especially so.
5160 and a blue back differential temper. Not a stainless especially not in a factory knife, i can almost here that blade breaking now.
 
i definitely would enjoy learning to care for it/making it part of my routine.

It's very easy: keep it clean, keep it dry, and oil it when not in use. As it will be an EDC this should be no problem. For example, make wiping it down with a cloth impregnated with food grade mineral oil at the end of each day (you can find such mineral oil at any pharmacy for as little as $2 per pint).

Considering you'll be working in Florida, don't carry it in a manner that you'll be dripping sweat onto it. And, let the blade naturally develop its protective patina (don't polish it off, as it inhibits red, pitting rust formation); in fact, you may want to force a patina and update it periodically as hard use may wear some of it off.

Can you post some pics or links to work your Irish bladesmith has produced so we can see what has you enthralled? I see no problem with you posting the design he did for you -- he's just starting out, and such guys depend on word of mouth advertizing, so you may well bring him new customers.
 
Perhaps it's just me, but I find the propensity to demand stainless steels around water to be kind of an eye-roller.

Especially on a forum supposedly full of folks who know how to maintain a knife.

How was the West possibly won without stainless steel?
 
Thats knife abuse really. When you say prying especially so.
5160 and a blue back differential temper. Not a stainless especially not in a factory knife, i can almost here that blade breaking now.
the likelihood of me prying is very very low, im just saying it may happen at some point or another but i try and avoid it at all costs
 
It's very easy: keep it clean, keep it dry, and oil it when not in use. As it will be an EDC this should be no problem. For example, make wiping it down with a cloth impregnated with food grade mineral oil at the end of each day (you can find such mineral oil at any pharmacy for as little as $2 per pint).

Considering you'll be working in Florida, don't carry it in a manner that you'll be dripping sweat onto it. And, let the blade naturally develop its protective patina (don't polish it off, as it inhibits red, pitting rust formation); in fact, you may want to force a patina and update it periodically as hard use may wear some of it off.

Can you post some pics or links to work your Irish bladesmith has produced so we can see what has you enthralled? I see no problem with you posting the design he did for you -- he's just starting out, and such guys depend on word of mouth advertizing, so you may well bring him new customers.

i dont know how to post pictures on my phone without copying them from google, but heres his FB page: https://www.facebook.com/Brugman-Knife-Works-379172979212478/
 
Take a look at Helle knives. Laminated stainless; take a razor edge and keep it. Great variety of styles.
Rich
 
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