The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
getting an edc fixed blade made, gonna be a work knife and just overall hard use probably. my steel options are 1095, 1070+CR, and 5160. i was gonna go with 1095 but then was warned about corrosion especially with being in the coastal areas of florida with such high humidity and salt content, then i was told to go with 1070 but i dont know much about steels. what do you guys think would be best?
this design currently is a 4” blade, in the end i want anywhere from 3.5-4”. truthfully now that i think about it itll be pretty mild as ill be carrying the fastback aswell, but cutting open bags of cement, maybe scoring drywall (if i dont have my fastback on me), stripping wire, maybe light prying (try to avoid as much as possible). basically ill be working on a construction site and/or potentially going to school for one of the 3: HVAC, electrical, or plumbingWhat is 1070+Cr? Do you have any info on that one. The +Cr part is intriguing.
How big a blade will you have? What do you consider hard use?
this design currently is a 4” blade, in the end i want anywhere from 3.5-4”. truthfully now that i think about it itll be pretty mild as ill be carrying the fastback aswell, but cutting open bags of cement, maybe scoring drywall (if i dont have my fastback on me), stripping wire, maybe light prying (try to avoid as much as possible). basically ill be working on a construction site and/or potentially going to school for one of the 3: HVAC, electrical, or plumbing
i dont have more info but ill look for some.
What is 1070+Cr? Do you have any info on that one. The +Cr part is intriguing.
How big a blade will you have? What do you consider hard use?
gonna be in melbourne, im in tennessee currently, moving down there in a couple months.I do electrical work, senior elect. For the OCSD for 33 years in FWB,on the salt water. A light coat of any light oil over the patina works . You will know when it needs it. What part are you from on that side?
pretty much what i gather is go 1095, 5160, CPM-S35VN, CPM-S30V, or LC200N. all of it will need some sort of care at any point but these are the strongest/best to go with.Perhaps it's just me, but I find the propensity to demand stainless steels around water to be kind of an eye-roller.
Especially on a forum supposedly full of folks who know how to maintain a knife.
I've been using carbon steel knives on the coast my entire life. None of my blades shows any rust. Salt water rinses off my knives just as easily as blood, grease, glue, plaster etc. I don't crazily slather my blades with axle grease, I don't coat them in Cerakote, I don't pull WD-40 from a quick draw holster and panic fire it at my knife after it gets exposed to the "salt-air" around here.
I clean them and dry them after use. Wow, the insanity.
Some folks even dive into these threads certain that only H1, a'la Spyderco Salt, will survive coastal conditions. Hey, I can see recommending this stuff to folks, it's definitely suited for the salt water environment and will serve users very well. But it's hardly the end-all-be-all steel that people seem to think it is.
OP, you get your knife and use it proudly. It will be just fine, just maintain it like you would any other steel stuff... like your mountain bike or your barbecue... and fret not.
I'd be cautious to make sure it's not a pakistani made knife. I'd avoid that like the plauge. They go around trying to sell there bad steel with an even worse heat treatment. It's very common. Just be careful.i agree, right now its kinda come to the fact that i want someone in the US who has a little more credibility really. this guy is in another country, just started, and has no presence anywhere really other than a couple posts in a FB group that im in. hes a nice guy, but it kinda worries me.
his knives look good qualify and such, he just doesnt have the credibility that id like for just sending $140 to someoneI'd be cautious to make sure it's not a pakistani made knife. I'd avoid that like the plauge. They go around trying to sell there bad steel with an even worse heat treatment. It's very common. Just be careful.
Thats knife abuse really. When you say prying especially so.this design currently is a 4” blade, in the end i want anywhere from 3.5-4”. truthfully now that i think about it itll be pretty mild as ill be carrying the fastback aswell, but cutting open bags of cement, maybe scoring drywall (if i dont have my fastback on me), stripping wire, maybe light prying (try to avoid as much as possible). basically ill be working on a construction site and/or potentially going to school for one of the 3: HVAC, electrical, or plumbing
i dont have more info but ill look for some.
i definitely would enjoy learning to care for it/making it part of my routine.
Perhaps it's just me, but I find the propensity to demand stainless steels around water to be kind of an eye-roller.
Especially on a forum supposedly full of folks who know how to maintain a knife.
the likelihood of me prying is very very low, im just saying it may happen at some point or another but i try and avoid it at all costsThats knife abuse really. When you say prying especially so.
5160 and a blue back differential temper. Not a stainless especially not in a factory knife, i can almost here that blade breaking now.
It's very easy: keep it clean, keep it dry, and oil it when not in use. As it will be an EDC this should be no problem. For example, make wiping it down with a cloth impregnated with food grade mineral oil at the end of each day (you can find such mineral oil at any pharmacy for as little as $2 per pint).
Considering you'll be working in Florida, don't carry it in a manner that you'll be dripping sweat onto it. And, let the blade naturally develop its protective patina (don't polish it off, as it inhibits red, pitting rust formation); in fact, you may want to force a patina and update it periodically as hard use may wear some of it off.
Can you post some pics or links to work your Irish bladesmith has produced so we can see what has you enthralled? I see no problem with you posting the design he did for you -- he's just starting out, and such guys depend on word of mouth advertizing, so you may well bring him new customers.