Quit lubing your knife to pieces

fulloflead said:
Come on, guys. :thumbdn:
Reasonable people can disagree at times. Let's try to be those people.

Can't we even debate the merits of lubing/not lubing a knife without it having to get ugly?

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That's right,these are the threads newbies will look to for guidance and knowlege (luckily there's enough humor in it to keep it interesting). My personal opinion is- I bought the knife, if I want to drench it with oil that's my business :)
 
Well said matches. lol


Actually today i soaked one of my knives in lube just for the heck of it :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
I like to take the sheets off my waterbed and squirt baby oil all over the bare bladder and then...

Wait. I don't want to get this thread moved. :(

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fulloflead said:
I like to take the sheets off my waterbed and squirt baby oil all over the bare bladder and then...

Wait. I don't want to get this thread moved. :(

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I thought I was the only one... :eek:
 
i remember my first time. It was a hot summer night. i just got back from working outside in the yard. I laid her on the table and cleaned her good. Made sure i got all the gunk. Then i lubed her up and opened and closed rapidly until i was done. Wiped off the extra lube and then left her by herself.

My first lubing of a knife. It was a one nightstand :D
 
fulloflead said:
A good scrubbing with hot soapy water does wonders for a knife doesn't it? With ALL out technology I find I use hot water, dish soap and a vegetable brush more than anything.

(Then I rinse with SUPER HOT water so that all the moisture evaporates really quickly when I dry it and then I just oil it a bit.)
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It really does help when a knife is dirty. For removing minor stuff, I use compressed air and toothpicks.

I didn't know about the super hot water trick. I'll have to try that one.
 
Inmates in prison want lube more than anything else. So before you toss out the bottle of Tuf-Glide, think of those poor inmates.
 
Confidence based upon a single person's subjective experience has a limited power to convince. Appropriately lubing the moving parts of metal tools is a practice sanctified by the centuries of experience of millions of tool users and the recommendations of thousands of tool makers. If they are all wrong, it will take more that one testimonial, however forcefully asserted, to count at all in this discussion.
 
There is no doubt in my mind that most knives benefit from a sparing amount of a good synthetic lube in the right places. While I agree, most pivots actually have very little friction and don't really need lube, though I think they still benefit from it, the much more likely reason for a gritty action and where more of the friction lies, is the ball detent riding against the side of the blade (in liner/framelocks). I have had numerous folders where the action got gritty and would even start to squeak badly until a dab of grease was put on the ball detent, problem solved.

No, of course the friction in a knife doesn't produce the heat a car engine does, but, there is no doubt that there is still some friction, and at the very least, the action feels smoother with some lube.
 
Shmackey said:
Look, mike_mck2, you matter-of-factly posted something patently, absurdly incorrect. Either you believed it and you were wrong, or you know it's ridiculous and you're trolling.
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Shmackey said:
Most folders need lube.
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Wow, when I say it it is patently, absurdly incorrect, but when you say pretty much the same, somehow it is not absurdly incorrect. How does that work?

Like I said before, if you or anyone else wants to post however you like and expect civil responses to what you say instead of replies in kind, deal with Cliff Stamp, he's an easy target for that nonsense.

The owner of this site has said not to feed trolls, and yet any number of you continue to do so, after declaring someone a troll.
Maybe these people think it's really ballsy, or tough, to deliberately flaunt their disregard for what the owner of this site says, but it's just lowclass, boring, and pointless.

If you think I am a troll, don't respond. Your contribution will not be missed by me, or quite probably any person who actually attempts to contribute something to the thread.
 
Thirteenth Star said:
Ryan8, who is that on the very last coin in your signature? She looks familiar but I can't recall a name.
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It's a depiction of Liberty as a mythological goddess wearing a coronet. Many early US coins were inspired by Greek and Roman art. It's a $10 gold piece made in San Fransisco in 1886. It was designed by Christian Gobrecht and used in $2.50, $5, and $10 gold coins starting in the late 1830s until 1908.
 
Does anyone remember the original version of this dicksmack? His screen name was mike mck1 or just mike mck. Every single person on the forums disliked this guy because all he did was create conflict and piss people off.

He's some assface from Texas and he was a regular in the political forum. He seemed to hate everyone in the world because they weren't as Libertarian as he was. I'm a Libertarian but I don't hate people simply because they hold different opinions than I do.

He's a troll.
 
I cannot say for certain that every knife NEEDS lube...but I have never seen ANY knife that did'nt function better with some lube.

I also don't believe that lubrication actually causes your knife or tools to wear out faster.
However, not maintaining, and cleaning, AND RE-LUBRICATING them will.


Allen.
 
This guy hasn't got a clue.

Metal against metal is bad. Especially steel against steel. While heat/friction might not be a problem as it would be in a car or motorized electronics, lube is still necessary. Steel against steel has a very high coefficient of friction. Steel against phosphor bronze is much less, but there's still friction (plus the brozne is softer and more susceptable to damage). Metal against metal can cause galling, which is a scratching or gouging of the metals. Consider a knife with extremely high tolerances like a Chris Reeve Sebenza, and the slightest burr in the washer will cause the knife to pivot very poorly. Lube not only smooths out the action, but prevents galling.

Some knives also require lube in non-pivot areas. Take a Benchmade AXIS lock for example. If the lock itself isn't lubed, the lock will stick and be difficult to engage/disengage. Not to mention that the lube keeps the exposed M2 steel on the tang of my 710HS from rusting.

Lack of lube on an assisted knife like a Kershaw Leek will cause the knife to fail opening all the way.

A knife like a Microtech Scarab will completely fail without lube, and will fail if the wrong lube is used. Militec-1, perhaps the best lube for metal/metal contacts on knives, is disasterious to D/A OTFs. Rem Oil and Tuf-Glide work great. Very picky, but if lubed properly will work 100%.

This guy also has very obviously never handled a balisong. Try doing a basic horizontal without any lube on your pivots and then tell me how many of your fingertips have cuts on them (my record is all 4).

mike_mck2, you're welcome to neglect your knives all you want, but the rest of us will be at least as happy with our smooth functioning knives that don't wear out prematurely.
 
mike_mck2 said:
It's true, most knives do not need lube. Just a good cleaning, and that's about it.
Quite a few lubes on the market not only are not needed, but they actually increase the wear & tear, because they gum up and collect dirt/dust/debris, even when used sparingly, and most seem to be applied quite liberally.

I have explained this to numerous people, and they just do not understand.
I try to tell them, if it's not broke, you won't hurt it by not fixing it. Don't lube it unless it just absolutely needs it, and even then use very very little.
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Good post with some good advice. I would say however that it depends on the steel of your knife. All folding knives need a drop and the non-stainless steel knives need an oiling of some sort for rust protection. I use Break Free CLP. It is a synthetic like Rem-oil and is military spec. It C-leans, L-ubes, and P-rotects. You can get it inexpensively in any gun store. I also use Mobile 1 five weight when I can't find my CLP can. It seems to work very well also and a quart of the stuff is less than 5 bucks.

Like you said you don't need much lube at all but many people think if one drop is good then 10 drops is better. And you should always wipe off all the excess.

If you were to ask any gunsmith about this over lubing problem you would get an ear full. Most nonfunctioning guns can be restored to working order with disassembly and a good cleaning off of all the old gunky crud. However, lots of damage occurs to wooden stocks because folks get nutty with their 3 in 1 oil can.
 
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