Rambo First Blood Knife question

kevinyue, I don't even care about your website, but I hit "Report Post" just to watch your spam get taken away, lol. :thumbup::thumbup:
Thanks for playing, and good luck with the sharks.

Sam :thumbup:

ETA: I didn't quote you on purpose, so that you are forever lost to the history of the Interwebs. :)
 
maverick3981 said:
Aitor Jungle King1 is good quality look alike.
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I agree, maverick. And in my opinion, they have probably the best "survival kit" of any knife I've ever seen. Built in sling shot, skinning knife, sharpening stone, and tons of other goodies. Very cool knife/system.
 
Hey guys,Im curious which one of these version is better:

(( removed live eBay links ))

I think first and last are same,except signature.
 
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I collect hollow handle knives. I have over 15 of them but they are all customs and cost hundreds each and some over $1000.00. I would not hesitate to take any of them as my primary survival knife. If you use a knife what a knife is designed for (cutting and light chopping) and not use it like an axe a quality custom will last forever. So my point is I know hollow handle knives. If I were you I would scrap the UC and Master cutlery idea and buy the Boker/Martin collaboration survival knife. It is a solid well built knife for the money and much better quality than what you are looking at. A little more expensive but well worth the extra expense.

http://www.blackscoutsurvival.com/2013/04/boker-plusmartin-knives-apparo-review.html
 
shaving sharp said:
I collect hollow handle knives. I have over 15 of them but they are all customs and cost hundreds each and some over $1000.00. I would not hesitate to take any of them as my primary survival knife. If you use a knife what a knife is designed for (cutting and light chopping) and not use it like an axe a quality custom will last forever. So my point is I know hollow handle knives. If I were you I would scrap the UC and Master cutlery idea and buy the Boker/Martin collaboration survival knife. It is a solid well built knife for the money and much better quality than what you are looking at. A little more expensive but well worth the extra expense.

http://www.blackscoutsurvival.com/2013/04/boker-plusmartin-knives-apparo-review.html
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Im kind a short with money,at the moment.
Im planning to buy Rambo First Blood knife first.
However i have in plan to buy few knives that you and other guys on forum recommend,but im not yet 100% sure which one.
Anyway,i saw one Rambo knife that have 420 J2 Stainless Steel,on the other hand i saw other knife that have 440 STAINLESS STEEL.
Few days ago i called local knives shop and ask they which one is better,and they told me 440 SS is excellent steel,but i need to know how much carbon (i think) does it have in it.
Do you by any chances know how much carbon it have?
 
Petar said:
Hey guys,Im curious which one of these version is better:

(( removed live eBay links ))

I think first and last are same,except signature.
Click to expand...

Those are all the Master Cutlery Versions.
There's nothing wrong with them as long as you know they're curios and not users.

I like them too, but I'd buy the Boker version if you want to use it.

If you're on a budget, Schrade makes a hollow handle knife in three styles , that are made from a solid piece of steel.
They don't look like Rambo knives, but they can be used hard.
 
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Petar said:
Im kind a short with money,at the moment.
Im planning to buy Rambo First Blood knife first.
However i have in plan to buy few knives that you and other guys on forum recommend,but im not yet 100% sure which one.
Anyway,i saw one Rambo knife that have 420 J2 Stainless Steel,on the other hand i saw other knife that have 440 STAINLESS STEEL.
Few days ago i called local knives shop and ask they which one is better,and they told me 440 SS is excellent steel,but i need to know how much carbon (i think) does it have in it.
Do you by any chances know how much carbon it have?
Click to expand...

I would take well heat treated 440a (that knife most likely has a poor one) over 420j2 any day but its by no means excellent. When a company puts 440stainless on a knife it means it 440a. There are three different steels in the 440 category with vastly different results for a knife
440a- usually in cheap knives very low edge retention. Make a usable knife with good heat treat.
440b- similar to aus8 and 8cr13mov. Moderate edge retention. Makes a good budget knife.
440c- can make a great knife, good edge retention. Great knife steel to the average user.

As you can see theres a big span of performance with the 440 series and if the "shop guy" referred to 440stainless as a singular steel, he probably doesn't know what he talking about. Bottom line, don't expect performance out of these knives your looking to buy.
 
jobasha11 said:
I would take well heat treated 440a (that knife most likely has a poor one) over 420j2 any day but its by no means excellent. When a company puts 440stainless on a knife it means it 440a. There are three different steels in the 440 category with vastly different results for a knife
440a- usually in cheap knives very low edge retention. Make a usable knife with good heat treat.
440b- similar to aus8 and 8cr13mov. Moderate edge retention. Makes a good budget knife.
440c- can make a great knife, good edge retention. Great knife steel to the average user.

As you can see theres a big span of performance with the 440 series and if the "shop guy" referred to 440stainless as a singular steel, he probably doesn't know what he talking about. Bottom line, don't expect performance out of these knives your looking to buy.
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Thanks for great explanation :)
However im not familiar with "heat treat".
Can you please tell me what's that,and how to do it?
 
Petar said:
Thanks for great explanation :)
However im not familiar with "heat treat".
Can you please tell me what's that,and how to do it?
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Its a process in which a steel is heated up to its critical temperature and held there for however long it needs to soak. Some steels are then quenched in oil to cool fast and some slowly cool in the air to reach an optimal hardness. After a steel is hardened it must be tempered. This slightly softens the steel so it isn't as brittle so less prone to breaking. In general, the softer it is the tougher it is, but the trade off is less edge retention. Some steels have a much more complicating process while others are very simple. It changes the steel on a molecular level. It all can be confusing but I'm sure the guys over in shop talk could give a better answer then me:)
 
Sam Wilson said:
Oh man, your video link led me to this creepy gem, filmed in a bathroom, lol. Don't know why the lid is off the toilet, maybe that's the Rambo-stash.

[video=youtube_share;Q3PGOKz1Z6I]http://youtu.be/Q3PGOKz1Z6I[/video]
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Thank you for the laugh, good sir :p

I love how he dubbed the theme over his footage. And how he's got knives signed by Stallone AND Rambo!!! I didn't know these movies were based on a true story :thumbup:
 
jobasha11 said:
Its a process in which a steel is heated up to its critical temperature and held there for however long it needs to soak. Some steels are then quenched in oil to cool fast and some slowly cool in the air to reach an optimal hardness. After a steel is hardened it must be tempered. This slightly softens the steel so it isn't as brittle so less prone to breaking. In general, the softer it is the tougher it is, but the trade off is less edge retention. Some steels have a much more complicating process while others are very simple. It changes the steel on a molecular level. It all can be confusing but I'm sure the guys over in shop talk could give a better answer then me:)
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Thanks man :D
 
jobasha11 said:
Its a process in which a steel is heated up to its critical temperature and held there for however long it needs to soak. Some steels are then quenched in oil to cool fast and some slowly cool in the air to reach an optimal hardness. After a steel is hardened it must be tempered. This slightly softens the steel so it isn't as brittle so less prone to breaking. In general, the softer it is the tougher it is, but the trade off is less edge retention. Some steels have a much more complicating process while others are very simple. It changes the steel on a molecular level. It all can be confusing but I'm sure the guys over in shop talk could give a better answer then me:)
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One last thing.
How can i found out knife grade,how much carbon knife have?
Only thing i know is that it's 440A.
 
Not anymore as a regular item, you pretty much are looking at the secondary market for those now.
 
Hey guys,i saw one that seller claim is United Cutlers Rambo First Blood knife,but i would like to know from what steel is made...
Seller told me he doesn't know from what material is,so i was hoping you could tell me.
Also,how can i trust seller,when he claims it's UC,but there is no box-is there anyway for me to recognize that is United Cutlery?
Here is a link of knife:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111355024275

Do you think it's 440A SS or 420 SS?
 
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Petar said:
Hey guys,i saw one that seller claim is United Cutlers Rambo First Blood knife,but i would like to know from what steel is made...
Seller told me he doesn't know from what material is,so i was hoping you could tell me.
Also,how can i trust seller,when he claims it's UC,but there is no box-is there anyway for me to recognize that is United Cutlery?
Here is a link of knife:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111355024275

Do you think it's 440A SS or 420 SS?
Click to expand...

Petar,
It doesn't really matter because they don't have a consistent Heat Treatment and they may not really be that steel anyway!
These are novelty knives. If you must, But the one that you think looks the coolest or is the least expensive. it will most likely break anyway. Buy the Condor, Boker or others if you want a real knife, these are really just toys.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Petar,
It doesn't really matter because they don't have a consistent Heat Treatment and they may not really be that steel anyway!
These are novelty knives. If you must, But the one that you think looks the coolest or is the least expensive. it will most likely break anyway. Buy the Condor, Boker or others if you want a real knife, these are really just toys.
Click to expand...


Yeah,i know what you mean.
I read on this same forum chat between few guys.
Here is what one wrote:

couple of things always come up in any discussion of Rambo knives.

1. The myth that the hollow handled knives will break where the handle meets the blade. I understand why this is perceived as weak point due to the way it is constructed but in many years of talking to collectors, reading reviews and forum postings, I have yet to find a single case of this actually happening. Not one first hand account of the knife breaking at the handle.

I would suspect that if someone really tried to break one at that point they could, and probably will now that I have written this, but I have never seen one documented case of this happening under normal use.

2. United / 420J is junk: Again, this is always thrown in. Obviously a $80 mass produced knife of 420J is not going to perform like other knives of superior steels. That said, most United knives will perform fine under light to medium normal use. Yes, you will have to sharpen it more often than a higher grade stainless or a good carbon steel blade in most cases but you can get a decent edge on it and it will perform OK. 420J also happens to be one of the most stain and rust resistant steels that you can get so if appearance is important, and lets face it, it is in this case, then 420J is understandable.

Much like that handle breakage thing, I always hear people repeating what they have heard but seldom hear someone who actually had the knife fail to perform in first hand personal use.


This was one of post that ''attracted'' me to Rambo knife,if you don't count that i love Rambo movies.
 
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