Random Thought Thread

Casinostocks said:
Friggin M-Class, be it ML350, ML550, ML63, specially if early model W164 chassis. Nothing but POS money pit which will eventually put itself in limp mode when the Check Eng light comes on and stays on (if unaddressed) for many various reasons. I am going to make a very rude and controversial statement: the fracking thing is assembled in AL, so don't but the early MBZ-AL assemblies! I much rather have the older body on frame W163 chassis than the POS unibody W164 chassis.
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Mine's a 2012 W164 ML350 4Matic that has been a reliable vehicle for the past 5.5 yrs that I've owned it.

Recently had a problem w/the HVAC blower motor. Bought a cheap replacement on EB that didn't fix the problem and actually had to take it into the stealership for repair. OEM blower was probably fine. Problem was some shorted out wiring somewhere under the floorboards which apparently is NOT an uncommon problem.

Only other problem was the stupid lightbulb that I would have ignored if the car's computer did keep telling me to check the lightbulb every time I turned on the f*cking engine. LOL!

So, I'm happy w/the vehicle but it's getting to the point where more things are likely to go wrong and if that starts to happen I won't wait around to sell or trade it.
 
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sgt1372 said:
Mine's a 2012 W164 ML350 4Matic that has been a reliable vehicle for the past 5.5 yrs.

Recently had a problem w/the HVAC blower motor. Bought a cheap replacement on EB that didn't fix the problem and actually had to take it into the stealership for repair. Problem was some shorted out wiring which apparently is not an uncommon problem.

Only other problem was the stupid lightbulb that I would have ignored if the car's computer did keep telling me to check the lightbulb every time I turned on the engine. LOL!

so, I'm happy w/the vehicle but it'sgetting to the point where more things are likely to go wrong and it that starts to happen I won't wait around to sell or trade it.
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In fairness, 2010 - 2015 (their last year before changing over to the GLE designation) were better W164 models, so I grant you that. I used to sell MBZ, I used to work at MBZ, I may know a little bit about them ;)
 
Justin Fournier answered my texts, all is well... He's getting fat and he's happy... Sends his regards to all those who ask about him :)

ETA: I don't know what fat means in this context because back in the day he was like 165ish at 6 feet tall... He considered 185 to be a bit too fat!
 
Casinostocks said:
In fairness, 2010 - 2015 (their last year before changing over to the GLE designation) were better W164 models, so I grant you that. I used to sell MBZ, I used to work at MBZ, I may know a little bit about them ;)
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It's all good. I don't bother to learn any more about the vehicles that I own than I "need" to know.

I was just venting about the 1hr it took me to change the headlight bulb which I thought was ridiculous. 🤷‍♂️
 
sgt1372 said:
It shouldn't take an hour to change a headlight bulb, should it? 🤔

Could have done it quicker if I had a rack but I don't; only a floor jack. Why do you need a rack or floor jack to replace a headlight bulb? You'll have to ask Mercedes Benz that question.

But on my ML350, in order to change the low beam headlight bulb, you have to lift the front wheel (the left one in my case) to have more clearance to open up a flap in the fender liner to gain access to a porthole which then allows you access to the light bulb holder. "Quality" German engineering. 😲

Didn't help that the flap was a b*tch to open (w/o fear of damaging it) and then getting it closed again (with the help of a vice grip) or that the light bulb holder refused to release the lightbulb w/o the help of a screwdriver as a lever (which shouldn't be necessary for a simple lighbulb swap).

I thought about taking it to my shop to do it before I started the job because it looked like too much trouble and, after getting it done, I'm convinced that that is what I should have done in the 1st place. LOL! ;)
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bluemax_1 said:
Some manufacturers appear to be deliberately making it harder for DIY'ers.

Fewer and fewer vehicles with 60 second toolless bulb replacement.

Really glad I sprang for the all-LED on the Toyota. Headlights are nice and bright, and hopefully, I'll never have to change a single bulb.
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Nathan the Machinist said:
It's nicer than any car that I've ever owned. The people who buy these don't care about these "shortcomings". If they forget where they parked it they just go buy another one. If the headlight is out it is not intended for the owner to replace it (the headlight). They'll spoil their manicure. The driver should take it to the dealership and they should drive their Bentley instead.
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It sucks, but I guess it's more understandable in a Benz or BMW. But the tail light in my daughter's cheap Ford Focus is the same deal. Not designed to be replaced by owner. Off to the mechanic and his car lift it goes. 👎
 
Casinostocks said:
We have a rule Nathan: veiled sarcasm must be in green color font! That said, here is how to buy a used, second hand ML, say model year 2008 ML350: the original owner, one little ol' lady from Pasadena bought it back in 2008 for like $52K and during her ownership for almost 15 years, she sinks another $30K in regular maintenances and out of warranty repairs at the MB dealership ($150-$200 per hour nowadays?). When she dies, he state sells the ML for today's fair market value of around $6K, or trade it in for $3K. Well done Mercedes-Benz!
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200-300 your not going to find a dealership for 150 anymore. We are 197.50 in Oregon
 
The shiv only weighs 12 ounces? !
I have never seen one in person.
I can’t wait to get my hands on this thing!
It must be glorious.
I ordered ECAM buffed. I am also wondering if anyone has some pictures or preferences based on experience with buffed and non buffed ECAM.
 
JACKMANDU said:
The shiv only weighs 12 ounces? !
I have never seen one in person.
I can’t wait to get my hands on this thing!
It must be glorious.
I ordered ECAM buffed. I am also wondering if anyone has some pictures or preferences based on experience with buffed and non buffed ECAM.
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buffed is the winning choice for that material. In my honest opinion.
 
JACKMANDU said:
The shiv only weighs 12 ounces? !
I have never seen one in person.
I can’t wait to get my hands on this thing!
It must be glorious.
I ordered ECAM buffed. I am also wondering if anyone has some pictures or preferences based on experience with buffed and non buffed ECAM.
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iu4B548.jpg


buffed, buffed, non buffed, buffed, buffed, buffed then changed to non buffed
 
Casinostocks said:
We have a rule Nathan: veiled sarcasm must be in green color font! That said, here is how to buy a used, second hand ML, say model year 2008 ML350: the original owner, one little ol' lady from Pasadena bought it back in 2008 for like $52K and during her ownership for almost 15 years, she sinks another $30K in regular maintenances and out of warranty repairs at the MB dealership ($150-$200 per hour nowadays?). When she dies, he state sells the ML for today's fair market value of around $6K, or trade it in for $3K. Well done Mercedes-Benz!
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It's not that bad if you know how to buy/spend well.

My 2012 ML350 cost me $25k (including sales tax & license fees) back in 2017. The car is still worth $15k now if you belive KBB & NADA.

I've only spent about $125/year on oil changes (Mobil 1 0-40 European Synthetic), $700 for that HVAC blower repair and $20 for that light bulb. My most expensive "maintenance" cost has been for tires -- Continental Extreme Contact DW06 -- which use to cost bout $200 each but, just looked for 2 new tires, and they're asking $290 each now which I assume has something to do w/supply problems up and down the tire manufacturing chain.

So, the total/annual cost of purchase/maintenance for my ML350 has been pretty low given that it's now a 10 going on 11 year old car.
 
sgt1372 said:
It's not that bad if you know how to buy/spend well.

My 2012 ML350 cost me $25k (including sales tax & license fees) back in 2017. The car is still worth $15k now if you belive KBB & NADA.

I've only spent about $125/year on oil changes (Mobil 1 0-40 European Synthetic), $700 for that HVAC blower repair and $20 for that light bulb. My most expensive "maintenance" cost has been for tires -- Continental Extreme Contact DW06 -- which use to cost bout $200 each but, just looked for 2 new tires, and they're asking $290 each now which I assume has something to do w/supply problems up and down the tire manufacturing chain.

So, the total/annual cost of purchase/maintenance for my ML350 has been pretty low given that it's now a 10 going on 11 year old car.
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Ever try to keep a Ford running?
 
dericdesmond said:
Needs to be a handle scale pic thread with lots of comparisons. Can ebonite be buffed to look more rich? Anyone have an opinion on buffed vs non buffed ecam? Thx guys
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JACKMANDU said:
The shiv only weighs 12 ounces? !
I have never seen one in person.
I can’t wait to get my hands on this thing!
It must be glorious.
I ordered ECAM buffed. I am also wondering if anyone has some pictures or preferences based on experience with buffed and non buffed ECAM.
Click to expand...

Lorien said:
buffed is the winning choice for that material. In my honest opinion.
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I agree with Lorien, the buffed ECAM looks much better.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Just now:


View attachment 1952767


SMH
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In college I was driving to my friend's mom's house and got a flat destroyed my tire. I put on the donut and drove about 75 miles more to get there. My friend's dad worked at a tire shop, and he told me to meet him at a local fast food joint for help changing the tire. I showed up, he pulled out a literal tire, and proceeded to change it manually with tire levers within about 5 minutes. Up until that point I'd only seen it done with machines.
 
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Nathan the Machinist said:
Ever try to keep a Ford running?
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Yes. My 2002 F250 7.3L Diesel 4x4 Lariat Supercab Longbed.

It also has cost me very little to own & maintain. Bought it about 12 yrs ago for $10k when you couldn't give big trucks away and that is worth about $15k now but I'd hold out for $20k because of all of the "extras" that I put into it . . .

. . . like a rear Superhitch, front hitch, tonneau cover, a 67 gal fuel tank, airbags, brake controller & camper tie downs because the original plan was to use it to tow a travel trailer or haul a cabover camper. Did that for awhile but sold the trailer and camper.

Keep it still because it costs so little to maintain.

Other than annual oil changes of about $175/yr and the $2k it just spent on a new set of tires (only the 2nd set in 12 yrs), the only things I had to spend to actually fix it were for some new ball joints, a starter, a steering box and some bits and pieces which cost about $2k more altogether, which isn't bad considering it has over 200k on the motor and that it's 20 yrs old.
 
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