Random Thought Thread

That was one of the items I looked at after reading the previous link.

Figured at $995 for that, I’d try what I have first, to see if I noted any appreciable difference.

The Seek Nano 300 makes it easy to check that the cooling packs were in the 45-60f range.
 
Last edited:
How far away can you take a reading on the thermal?
It has a genuine 320x240 resolution microbolometer, so pretty decent (especially for ~$300. Be wary of the marketing BS. Plenty of cheap thermal imagers using deceptive advertising where they’re advertising the resolution of the SCREEN, but the microbolometer itself has significantly lower resolution).

How far away will depend on the size of what I’m taking a reading of. For instance, if you look at some of the images I’ve posted, I’ve toggled 2 settings ON; the ‘High-Low’, and ‘Spot’.

High-Low shows the highest and lowest temps in the image (and yes, you can scan around looking for heat signatures). The ‘Spot’ setting shows the temperature of the Spot in the center, so you can aim it at something to see the temp at a specific spot. ***with all thermal imagers, you also need to understand emittance vs reflectance. Something that is very shiny, will give erroneous readings, as you’ll likely be reading the MWIR being reflected off the shiny surface. To get around that, we either use a piece of tape, or matte paint on shiny objects).

But as an example; on a colder day/night, this little thing would highlight a deer sized heat signature from 1/2 - 1 mile out (colder, because if the ambient temp is close to the heat signature, everything blends together).

First got to play around with thermal imagers back in the 90s. We used it to check mods on the track car (could check everything from suspension adjustments, by looking at the temps across the tires, so you could see if there was uneven heat BEFORE uneven wear patterns on expensive race tires. How airflow/air duct mods affected cooling systems for the engine and brakes etc.).

THAT top-of-the-line Mikron 320x240 thermal cost ~$15-20k(?) back then. Glad I wasn’t the one paying for it. Crazy to think that the tech has advanced enough, that the Nano 300 is smaller than my thumb, and ~$300).
 
Last edited:
B bluemax_1 I am needing to blow insulation into my attic. Do you think that would work for me to use in the house?

What I want to do is point it at the ceiling in a bedroom, living room etc and see where exactly the heat is coming into the house.

House is 22 yrs old so it’s time and I do plan on blowing it all over attic but interested to see where I am actually losing the most and in what room.
 
B bluemax_1 I am needing to blow insulation into my attic. Do you think that would work for me to use in the house?

What I want to do is point it at the ceiling in a bedroom, living room etc and see where exactly the heat is coming into the house.

House is 22 yrs old so it’s time and I do plan on blowing it all over attic but interested to see where I am actually losing the most and in what room.
Yup. It would show that.

When I use it to scan my ceiling, I can actually see where the rafters are above the ceiling (the wood insulates more, so you see the cooler band beneath the rafters).

I’ll try to take various thermal pics to show what it can do, later this evening.
 
I’ve just got roof vents. Been thinking I need the fan as well. It’s always been hella hot in my attic during summer.

I do know the insulation has compacted down and is just at ceiling joist level so only about 5” deep now.
A fan is a good idea. But get fiberglass blown in may be more effective. Request 19 inches which equates to R60, you’ll notice a difference considering 5 inches isn’t much at all for insulation you are losing a ton of energy both heating and cooling.

We don’t use attic fans often where I live and all our homes (new builds) get r60. Any more and it’s a bit of a waste. You could get away with r49 but it’s not that expensive.
 
Last edited:
I’ve just got roof vents. Been thinking I need the fan as well. It’s always been hella hot in my attic during summer.

I do know the insulation has compacted down and is just at ceiling joist level so only about 5” deep now.

A properly done ridge vent and the appropriate holes under your fascia is all you need. Add insulation (without blocking those vents) and you're going to be really good.

That's worked great even during the 100+ degrees we hit in the summer.
 
Just got done with a camping trip where I got to use my behemoth chopper a lot and my cruwear bfk was on my belt at camp.

You guys need to get some of Nathan's cruwear. It's really good....no, listen.......it's really good.

That behemoth chopped better than my prandi hatchet.....way better. I was really surprised. It's an excellent camp tool. I love that thing!
 
Back
Top