Random Thought Thread


Okay okay... here is dailmotion link for full video. I just watched it and honestly totally was dissapointed with Karls katana. Sword which bends at stays at that position sucks tbh. After that Im more in love with my 3v wakizashi lol, pre delta3v and before assembly ige bended it to 45-60° with my hands with no problems...

That rodrigo says he is from georgia and his knife was made by smith in mountains of north georgia. Im curious that USA georgia state or my country lol... as our country got huge higstory in forging blades.

About Jo. I loved how she tried. With whole heart. But that course requires bennie boo or mr beast aka dan keffeler.

Also im very stubborn sometimes. I will cut Jo's part and try to upload it. Lets see what happens.
 
Maan I still can't forget Karls katana failure.
That got me disappointed. From childhood I adored japanese blades because of their aesthetic beauty and many other reasons.

First of all never-ever trust smiths who are in china, as nowdays thet are just scumbags.
(Also if your katana is good for katas or tameshigiri that doesn't mean its beast like behemoth chopper lol)

Then at beginning he said that it is banned to export sharp blades from japan. But it isn't my friend bought sharp one on ebay from japan (tho he got scammed and that sword also bent like Karls sword lol) so I don't trust every japanese seller also.

Karl said that swords are considered as japanese national treasure but man are you joking? There are 122 swords which are national treasure, some are kept in museums and some at private collections and those 122 swords mustnt leave japan. You can buy great sword from new.unique.japan or aoi-japan or some antique sword sellers and export it anywhere. Or you can contact smith there, I know several, and forging and assemblying katana takes around 10 000$ or more...

Well I don't have 10k usd so I decided to make one by myself. I wanted one which would perform like Keffelers or Tendicks sword. And I wanted to use it in woods for cutting everything on my way lol. So I decided to make wakizashi with blade of 20" (actually cutting edge is around 18.5" came out like KoD and rest is habaki) and as I don't need big curvature because it isnt practical for chopping I made small curvature to remain aesthetic beauty of it. Also I tweaked handle a bit for my needs. Made it 8.6" so I can use it two handed when one isnt enough for power cuts. Usually handles where no longer than 7" on wakizashi (but japanese will forgive me 1" I hope lol)
As for steel I ordered 3v of course and Nathan was kind and gave me pre delta protocol which was last predcesor of delta 3v. He told me that: "the low temp tweak was already used for good edge stability and has a proven track record with Dan Keffeler's swords. Delta is not stronger, it stays sharp better. The previous tweak is a good process, perhaps just as good when used in a large knife. Use it. Be happy"
So I was happy and quickly shaped my blade and sent back to USA to peters. Brad there did his magic on it and after recieving it back to Georgia I started polishing and making/crafting/carving and assemblying it all by myself. It was long process lol, I hope also japanese will forgive me that I used mahogany for saya(scabbard) and handle core as usually they used soft woods like magnolia. I dont wanted to color my scabbard so beautiful and strong mahogany is my choice in that cases lol... also as it was designed and built for cutter/chopper I didnt made handle with pin as dissasambling handle is always weaker than fixed one, like Karls handle had play as that testing guy admited(i hope japanese will forgive me that also) so I put everything on some antique parts and new ones on it and after finishing lacquered rayskin several time for resistance and ito(cord) also after wrapping several times so it is rock hard and still got genuine silk feel in hand.

As for now Ive lacquered scabbard 7th time with very thin layers of glossy varnish and will finish it in several days. As for sword itself Im getting ready to sharpen it. Wrapped blade with protective film to protect my mirror polish and now being lazy to sharpen it as i have several days until scabbard will be finished and sharpening will take just around 2 hours as I want mirror polish on the edge (tho already used 220 grit stone and established bevel). For sharpening my sword I got different approach from japanese (hope they will forgive it also lol) usually their sharpening was with polishing. They havent had edge bevel like our knives have. So it meant that everytime they sharpened they worked on whole surface which isnt practical for me lol. Main blade bevels are around 15° on my wakizashi and I made it's edge bevel at 25° dps.

So I believe it will cut/chop and perform like I want (and I want it to act like sword of Hatori Hanzo lol)

Also about Karls katana which got bended, before assembly I was pulling it on my knee many times as hard as I could almost around 60-70° with no problems getting back to original shape. Also i juat remembered that after assembly my drunk friend bended it on knee at around 45° or more and it got back and everythong was rock hard. What should I expected from Nathans heat treat wizardy? Everything is awesome.

Here are some pics and I again got boring with long post lol.. sorry guys.

4-20200322-123103.jpg


3-20200322-123050.jpg


2-20200322-123027.jpg
 
And my mobile phone photos are crappy as always. Focus is messed up at scabbard and handle was in lacquer drying process so it's ito (cord) looks awful.
I will try to take some good quality shots after completly finishing it.
I cant wait to finish it. It took around 1000$ and countless time from me lol..
 
And my mobile phone photos are crappy as always. Focus is messed up at scabbard and handle was in lacquer drying process so it's ito (cord) looks awful.
I will try to take some good quality shots after completly finishing it.
I cant wait to finish it. It took around 1000$ and countless time from me lol..

Now I know think that I know what your avatar represents and what it probably belongs to ;)
 
^ wow man cool sword. :thumbsup:

Thanks Nathan, I appreciate it.
If not you then this sword wouldn't exist. (Well honestly it would but it wouldn't be pre delta 3v badass performer)
And I'm sorry I think Ive been annoying with my mails and messages during those times lol.
Thank you a lot with all my heart.

Now I know think that I know what your avatar represents and what it probably belongs to ;)

Hehe. I told you guys I lack of some creativity. I didn't wanted to be without avatar and quickly uploaded my antique tsuba (hand guard) by mogarashi souten. I will swap it later with some good picture.. tsuba is from around 17-18th century which I got on auctuion for around 300-400 usd lol... honestly I wanted everything antique for my sword but sadly some things messed up and couldnt buy rest antique details... tho there was amazing fuchi/kashira(details on top and bottom of handle) and auction ended for 200 usd.. and it was same wave pattern so it would match my tsuba theme... also good antique menukis are being sold for 100-200$ but meh.. my sister needed liver transplantation surgery and all of our money went there + ive been liver donor and thats why it took me almost 1 year to complete my sword... but thanks god for everything.

Here is my tsuba
Front side

IMG-9967-zpse80p39jq.jpg


And back side

IMG-9974-zpss7cg6tzl.jpg


And this is fuchi/kashira i wanted to buy but already was out of money q.q antiques this quality and price are very rare and + theme on it makes also more rare... tho if i will have money later and i will be lucky enough to find one like this i will buy and dissasamble my handle and swap modern fittings with antique ones...

s-l400.jpg


And this is what i have started from. My sword before ht.

IMG-20190412-233952.jpg


Being unexperienced sucks lol, wish i had grinded those blackish materials off from blade before sending it to peters, it took my around 2 mounths or more to polish my blade because of them... if i were doing it again now, i would polish my blade before ht at around 600 grit and send later... but meh shit happens lol...

IMG-20190412-233829.jpg
 
Some researchers at UCLA are now expressing opinion that this Covid-19 virus could become an actual airborne virus under certain conditions, explaining as to why so many people have gotten sick so rapidly beyond the illustration below. So far the evidence that the Covid-19 virus can behave as an "aerosol" particulate is patchy at best because their research has shown this kind of characteristic under more optimal lab conditions. For instance as another point of reference, the virus survives under optimal lab conditions for far longer (sometimes up to 2 weeks) as compared to real-world conditions:

81D8036D-A714-421E-BF91-BD2473902489.jpeg
 
Some researchers at UCLA are now expressing opinion that this Covid-19 virus could become an actual airborne virus under certain conditions, explaining as to why so many people have gotten sick so rapidly beyond the illustration below. So far the evidence that the Covid-19 virus can behave as an "aerosol" particulate is patchy at best because their research has shown this kind of characteristic under more optimal lab conditions. For instance as another point of reference, the virus survives under optimal lab conditions for far longer (sometimes up to 2 weeks) as compared to real-world conditions:

View attachment 1309174

Saw something the other day saying they found the virus still alive after 17 days on surfaces in the Diamond Princess cruise ship:eek:
 
Saw something the other day saying they found the virus still alive after 17 days on surfaces in the Diamond Princess cruise ship:eek:

it is quite possible that an infected person kept touching the same surfaces till he/she was quarantined. By and large 72 hours without getting freshly repopulated seems to be the consensus among scientists, unless in a petrie dish lab situation.

#notascientisteither
 
it is quite possible that an infected person kept touching the same surfaces till he/she was quarantined. By and large 72 hours without getting freshly repopulated seems to be the consensus among scientists, unless in a petrie dish lab situation.

#notascientisteither

https://www.kron4.com/health/corona...ss-cruise-17-days-after-passengers-disembark/

"A report released by the CDC says the coronavirus was found on surfaces of the Diamond Princess cruise ship 17 days after passengers disembarked."
 
Okay this is one from two which ive sharpened today.

20200325-115616.jpg


^ Okay okay I know that it was half of blade rest is here.

20200325-115536.jpg


Well yeah it's just a blade at the moment I won't share full pic till later. And yeah sometimes I used to weird design blades (because of requests). Gonna collect pics of knives made by me and share with you later guys. They are spread around me (dun got any blade made by me in hands besides sword which you've seen, and one bigass recurve which is under "production" just cut blank out of sheet of steel, it will have 10" blade like MC) but mostly my blades are in monastery.
Anyways won't get you bored with stories how I got involved in "knifemaking" as it's like my hobby, thing of passion, back in days practical needs forced me to do that but maybe will talk about it later...
 
Okay I give up. I've varnished my scabbard already 7th time.... I need help as I don't got any experience of varnishing lol.

Can anybody give helping hand and some advices? As I haven't had any experience I've searched internet several times.. yeah I've learned that I had to sand between layers of varnish and I did so. All layers are thin as they should be. Between first 3 layers I used 400 grit sandpaper to sand, wet rag cleaned, dried and continued applying layers. Between 4th 5th and 6th layers I used 1200 grit sandpaper and yesterday I applied 7th layer and it just dried and still got some problems...

I don't know what should I do. Some friends of mine adviced to sanded it with 1500>2000 and then buff with some car polishing paste or something like that idk to be honest. Buffing is needed as even with 2000 grit my glossy finish becomes somewhere between semi-gloss and mat.

Some told me to sand it again with 1200 grit and then spray lacquer it instead of applying by brush. And my problem will be fixed.

Some told me that I have too much free time to care that much about it and just leave it as it is.

I don't really know what to do... I put part of myself in this entire sword and why to leave it like this when I see imperfections in it?
Sometimes I feel tired also and I also think to leave it as it is. It still will get covered up by sageo (cord) beautifully wrapped around it or by leather "carrying shealth" (about which I will ask you guys later).

So impurities and imperfections with shape of little dots are spread all over scabbard lacquer. And glossy finish is unforgiveable to mistakes like that.

Sageo (cord) wrap on scabbard will look like this if you don't know.

imageAOS.jpg


My leather carrying "shealth" (better to say attachment) may pair up with sageo and may look like this (but lets talk about that later ill post pic just for referance)

20200316-090745.jpg


So all of this will cover big part of scabbard while worn but still it wont always be on belt you know lol...

So ive tried to take pics with my crapoy phone that way that those dots could be seen. Just in case "circled" them. Those dots on light shine in pictures.

20200326-004307.jpg


20200326-004111.jpg


20200326-004128.jpg


Also have to mention that on certain angles they aren't seen at all. (But the fact that I know that they exist there is disturbing me a lot lol)

20200326-004352.jpg


20200326-004338.jpg


And one shot in darkness with flashlight

20200326-002632.jpg


Ive workes with wood lots of times because of knives and swords but I wasn't lacquering them. Just oil finish or danish oil or something like that... varnish with brush is pain in the butt for me lol.
Hope there will be somebody to give advices.
Thanks in advance.
Be healthy.

Nika
 
@
Okay I give up. I've varnished my scabbard already 7th time.... I need help as I don't got any experience of varnishing lol.

Can anybody give helping hand and some advices? As I haven't had any experience I've searched internet several times.. yeah I've learned that I had to sand between layers of varnish and I did so. All layers are thin as they should be. Between first 3 layers I used 400 grit sandpaper to sand, wet rag cleaned, dried and continued applying layers. Between 4th 5th and 6th layers I used 1200 grit sandpaper and yesterday I applied 7th layer and it just dried and still got some problems...

I don't know what should I do. Some friends of mine adviced to sanded it with 1500>2000 and then buff with some car polishing paste or something like that idk to be honest. Buffing is needed as even with 2000 grit my glossy finish becomes somewhere between semi-gloss and mat.

Some told me to sand it again with 1200 grit and then spray lacquer it instead of applying by brush. And my problem will be fixed.

Some told me that I have too much free time to care that much about it and just leave it as it is.

I don't really know what to do... I put part of myself in this entire sword and why to leave it like this when I see imperfections in it?
Sometimes I feel tired also and I also think to leave it as it is. It still will get covered up by sageo (cord) beautifully wrapped around it or by leather "carrying shealth" (about which I will ask you guys later).

So impurities and imperfections with shape of little dots are spread all over scabbard lacquer. And glossy finish is unforgiveable to mistakes like that.

Sageo (cord) wrap on scabbard will look like this if you don't know.

imageAOS.jpg


My leather carrying "shealth" (better to say attachment) may pair up with sageo and may look like this (but lets talk about that later ill post pic just for referance)

20200316-090745.jpg


So all of this will cover big part of scabbard while worn but still it wont always be on belt you know lol...

So ive tried to take pics with my crapoy phone that way that those dots could be seen. Just in case "circled" them. Those dots on light shine in pictures.

20200326-004307.jpg


20200326-004111.jpg


20200326-004128.jpg


Also have to mention that on certain angles they aren't seen at all. (But the fact that I know that they exist there is disturbing me a lot lol)

20200326-004352.jpg


20200326-004338.jpg


And one shot in darkness with flashlight

20200326-002632.jpg


Ive workes with wood lots of times because of knives and swords but I wasn't lacquering them. Just oil finish or danish oil or something like that... varnish with brush is pain in the butt for me lol.
Hope there will be somebody to give advices.
Thanks in advance.
Be healthy.

Nika
@TRfromMT could probably offer some advice.
 
Back
Top