• Happy Thanksgiving to all of you! I hope that you all have something to be grateful for this year and for many years to come

  • The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/

  • America has reached 250 years, and I am grateful to be here, in the best country in the world. Thank every one of you who helps make this country a better place, those who have gone before and risked it all, and those who've paid the ultimate price to make the United States what we are today.

    Happy Birthday America! Let Freedom Ring for all time!

RAT Fire Kit

R.A.T. said:
Personally, I'm all for doing away with the magnesium rod altogether and going with a 3/16" diameter ferro rod instead. Brings the price down.
Click to expand...

This was totally my thought when I examined the specs on your photo. Awesome idea on the integrated capsule. I will definately buy them when they come available.
 
I like the idea of the 3/16 fero rod better, I don't like mag fire starters all that much.

Awesome idea Jeff.
 
ROCK6 said:
That's a great design; my only recommendation would be to make the ferro rod larger and the magnesium a little smaller.
ROCK6
Click to expand...

I'm with ROCK on this point. The ferro rod gets the most use, but I still like magnesium as a back up.

Very tidy looking unit!

Doc
 
Looks interesting. I'd ditch the magnesium myself. With a capsule full of VCB's, you'd be golden. A 1/2" rod with that combined canister would make a great piece of gear.
 
We will probably build a 3/16" "ferro only" model as the initial release for this unit, then build optional units in the future. More than likely this unit will be sold through our normal dealer/distributor network. I've sent out an email to our dealers asking if they are interested in stocking it. Now it's just a matter of working out pricing and finalizing the initial design and we're off to the races.
 
Jeff,

One other consideration. Don't put a lanyard hole around the top of the cap since it can wiggle and unscrew if dangled. Can a lanyard hole be placed lower down or somewhere on the main body of the unit instead? I wouldn't want a user to have just a cap when the chips are down.
 
man that looks like cool...:thumbup: i like the all in one idea..:eek:

i'm definately in for a few...:cool:
 
The only problem with moving the lanyard hole down would be losing the waterproofness of the unit if you drill through the housing. It could be done by milling a tab on the outside of the unit's housing but now you're talking about running the price way up. I'd like to keep this a simple CNC lathe bar fed project instead of adding a procedure which requires live tooling (another axis) on the machining process. I don't think the cap is going to un-screw easily with the O-ring seal.

As for options on this thing, we've got a lot of planned for this idea so everything you guys are saying as options will probably come true. The main thing is getting the initial unit to market first.

Just wait until you see our next idea that we have already got in the can as far as designing goes...
 
Jeff,

If you cut a ranger band and put it around the capsule, it would keep it on for sure. The rubber could be used as a flame extender too. I understand what you're saying about driving the price up. With the cost of a std. fire steel, you want to keep it competitive.

Nicely executed idea so far though!

I'd love to see one and will probably buy one from you once released.

kev
 
I like it.

I am not sure if you are looking for suggestions or just showing what it will be, but if I was to change anything, it would be what the cap is made out of. I would use steel and square off the top edge where your lanyard is so the cap could be used as an emergency striker.

The other thing I would do is cut a groove around the body so you could dummy cord the cap to the body with some braided twine without compromising the waterproof body. You will still be able to remove the cap from the body to use as a striker if needed. It will also make it much more difficult for the cap to actually completely unscrew over time if you keep the dummy cord short enough. Kind of like a plastic G.I. canteen cap.

You are only adding one step in the manufacturing of the handle, and that is cutting a groove while it is on the lathe.

Then it really is a self contained fire kit. I like others hate using my knife as a striker.
 
Nice compact idea. I'll buy a few when they make it to production. Keep up the good work!
Akos
 
How is the rod attached?

If you run out of the rod it is nice to not have to throw away the cannister with it.
 
1_BIG_BUNKER said:
I like it.

I am not sure if you are looking for suggestions or just showing what it will be, but if I was to change anything, it would be what the cap is made out of. I would use steel and square off the top edge where your lanyard is so the cap could be used as an emergency striker.

The other thing I would do is cut a groove around the body so you could dummy cord the cap to the body with some braided twine without compromising the waterproof body. You will still be able to remove the cap from the body to use as a striker if needed. It will also make it much more difficult for the cap to actually completely unscrew over time if you keep the dummy cord short enough. Kind of like a plastic G.I. canteen cap.

You are only adding one step in the manufacturing of the handle, and that is cutting a groove while it is on the lathe.

Then it really is a self contained fire kit. I like others hate using my knife as a striker.
Click to expand...

They are some good ideas - especially the steel scraper cap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top