Received today: ZT 0566

Bake13 said:
I know this is going to sound ridiculous to most but I am thinking I may actually want to remove the flipper from my 0566. I have the spring removed and prefer using the thumb studs to deploy the blade. The only tool I have to work with is a dremel. Anyone know how difficult it may be to grind the flipper away??
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Easier to sell it to someone, and buy a 550.
 
Bake13 said:
I know this is going to sound ridiculous to most but I am thinking I may actually want to remove the flipper from my 0566. I have the spring removed and prefer using the thumb studs to deploy the blade. The only tool I have to work with is a dremel. Anyone know how difficult it may be to grind the flipper away??

The screws from my clip would not allow it to be moved to the G10 side either.. I haven't contacted KAI yet but yours is not the only one out there with that issue..
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Interesting. That's kind-of an odd mistake with parts.

As for the flipper, I'd say take it very slow, don't overheat anything. Which may be difficult with ELMAX.
 
The 550 may be the way to go... I'll check it out to see how it compares. You wouldn't happen to have side by side pics would you?


Heat was what I was concerned about.. Sounds like it may be more of an issue than I thought.. This is my first ELMAX blade so I don't know much about it yet.
 
Bake13 said:
The 550 may be the way to go... I'll check it out to see how it compares. You wouldn't happen to have side by side pics would you?


Heat was what I was concerned about.. Sounds like it may be more of an issue than I thought.. This is my first ELMAX blade so I don't know much about it yet.
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The 0550 is much thicker than the 0566.
 
Bake13 said:
Doesn't look like a difficult grind but I have never tried anything like that on a finished blade.
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If you have a friend with a bench grinder he could remove the bulk and you finish up with the dremel. Don't let it heat up to much on the bench grinder if possible.
 
rpttrsn said:
If you have a friend with a bench grinder he could remove the bulk and you finish up with the dremel. Don't let it heat up to much on the bench grinder if possible.
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I have access to a bench grinder. I was just thinking of going slower and cooler with the dremel. Could be much, much slower though,, I don't know how tough it will be to get through the ELMAX..
 
Was really hoping to be able to add my thoughts to this thread today. Ordered a 566 from Dave on Friday and was anticipating its arrival today. We are having a wicked snow-storm across NW Ohio right now that may have delayed it. The mailman came around buy couldn't get close enough to the mailbox so he rolled out. Disappointed.
 
Received mine today.

None of the screws were stripped either the threads or torx heads. It disassembled and assembled very easily.
The blade was well centered. Opening the knife was a bit tough at first...stiff...but got better the more I used it.

It is a great knife so far. It fits my hand perfectly. I'm more impressed with this knife than I expected.
 
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Got mine in the mail today. This my most expensive knife I've purchased and its obvious just holding it. Its heavy but that doesn't bother me. Its a good size and carries well in the pocket.

Mine came well centered but like others reported was very stiff to open and close. I deassisted it which has made overcoming the initial detent much easier but it doesn't open fully without any better than maybe 1/5 times. If it doesn't get better I'll probably re-assist it, but I'll give it some break-in time before I do that.

It disassembled and reassembled very easily without any stripping of the screws.

Need more time to formulate a full opinion but I am very happy with the purchase thus far.
 
celtic11 said:
Mine came well centered but like others reported was very stiff to open and close. I deassisted it which has made overcoming the initial detent much easier but it doesn't open fully without any better than maybe 1/5 times. If it doesn't get better I'll probably re-assist it, but I'll give it some break-in time before I do that.
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Check your pivot tightness. Also, what flip method are you using? Just a finger flip (like a lightswitch) or the pre-load, push method? I have MUCH better luck with Kershaw and ZT flippers using the latter.
 
liamstrain said:
Check your pivot tightness. Also, what flip method are you using? Just a finger flip (like a lightswitch) or the pre-load, push method? I have MUCH better luck with Kershaw and ZT flippers using the latter.
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Shouldn't need to preload it with assisted opening. But I agree otherwise
 
liamstrain said:
Check your pivot tightness. Also, what flip method are you using? Just a finger flip (like a lightswitch) or the pre-load, push method? I have MUCH better luck with Kershaw and ZT flippers using the latter.
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I backed off the pivot tightness a bit but trying to keep the blade centering. I am using the preload method which is getting easier but kind of hurts my finger. I think I am still trying to figure out how to hold it without putting extra pressure on the lock bar.
 
I also used the method shown in this video to attempt to find the "sweet spot". I think its just a technique issue and need some more time with the knife.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paRewmjnFl0

The only other framelock I have is a Cryo and it was assisted so I never had an issue with putting pressure on the lock bar during opening. I remember that one being tightish when I got it new too so I'm assuming this will get better.
 
celtic11 said:
I also used the method shown in this video to attempt to find the "sweet spot". I think its just a technique issue and need some more time with the knife.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paRewmjnFl0

The only other framelock I have is a Cryo and it was assisted so I never had an issue with putting pressure on the lock bar during opening. I remember that one being tightish when I got it new too so I'm assuming this will get better.
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Usually what I look for when reassembling knives is the loosest (and thus smoothest) I can get without having any side-to-side play. That usually works for me, though I can see how the video method would also help. I've seen a similar technique used in fixing off-centered blades but not as a remedy for smoothness of opening. I might give that a shot next time I'm messing around with a knife.
 
annasoH323 said:
Usually what I look for when reassembling knives is the loosest (and thus smoothest) I can get without having any side-to-side play. That usually works for me, though I can see how the video method would also help. I've seen a similar technique used in fixing off-centered blades but not as a remedy for smoothness of opening. I might give that a shot next time I'm messing around with a knife.
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Yeah I've used it to center blades before too. Except I used folded up paper to shove between the blade and non-locking scale, but essentially the same idea. I backed the pivot off until the blade was just a hair off the non-locking scale and it didn't seem to help so I just re-centered it.
 
Just an update for anyone who cares, after one day I can pretty much flip the knife completely open every time. I was doing the correct method before but I guess wasn't being quite deliberate enough with the push. I will say its still uncomfortable on my finger. Flipping it open to use it is fine, but for me its not a knife I'm going to sit on the couch and flip open 100 times while I watch a TV.

That said, if anyone has any advice for disengaging the lock I'd love to hear that. I haven't found a way comfortably hold the knife and disengage the lock without fighting my other fingers. In fact, its far easier for me to close the knife with my left hand.

This is still a great knife and well worth the money. People who've had high-end frame locks before probably wouldn't be having some of these issues.
 
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