Recentering Blade?

- perhaps you'd achieve a little more help and guidance if you let members know what it is, who made it, and some photos.

Best o' luck :thumbsup:
 
Chui said:
- perhaps you'd achieve a little more help and guidance if you let members know what it is, who made it, and some photos.

Best o' luck :thumbsup:
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New Case Bose Lanny’s Clip for sale at local gun shop. It’s severely off center. Blade is practically resting on one side, knife is laid on its side. I’ll try and get pics of it. Just wondered if it could be done and if it would be worth the trouble
 
You just need one of these.

waynorth

Thread '"The Stiddy"'

Handy to have around, the cutler's anvil is a neat tool. Also called a steady rest or "stiddy". In place of a horn, there is a thin projection that will fit inside a folding knife for various operations. The old brown one is from an unknown closed cutlery, coughed up by EBAY. The other, a friend made from T-1 steel, blued for appearance.
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Or better yet know someone who has one and has done this before.
 
First, search up 'crinking.' Lots and lots of information here at BF.

Second, may only work on blades specifically annealed where the blade meets tang. Otherwise, there is a chance the blade could snap.

If it is Case/Bose Lanny's (assuming it IS a slip joint and not the new lockback), send it in for warranty. Case will take care of you.

Good luck!
 
Easy to do if you know how to do it right. Otherwise it takes either nerves of steel or the ability to replace a broken blade. Essentialy what you do is prop the blade across a stepped anvil and smack the tang with a punch and a hammer. Broken blades are a very real possibility.

You'd be better of finding another knife or asking the dealer to send it off for repair or replacement. Case may consider an off-center blade to be normal and refuse to warranty it.
 
I thought I was doing it right, but snapped a blade in a nice Remington Muskrat!!
Also, I brought a Queen special Cattle knife to Queen, where a pro cutler snapped a blade right in front of me, in two places!! You gotta know what you are doing, and sometimes it doesn't work out!!
(signed: Bladeless in Vancouver - not!!!) 😂 😂
 
waynorth said:
I thought I was doing it right, but snapped a blade in a nice Remington Muskrat!!
Also, I brought a Queen special Cattle knife to Queen, where a pro cutler snapped a blade right in front of me, in two places!! You gotta know what you are doing, and sometimes it doesn't work out!!
(signed: Bladeless in Vancouver - not!!!) 😂 😂
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Yeah... I've done it a few times mostly just to see if it could be done by a hamfisted clod. My success rate is about 80% or so, I'd never try it on anything valuable. Lucky for me blade centering isn't high on my looooong list of obsessions, so curiosity satisfied is good enough.
 
dsutton24 said:
Yeah... I've done it a few times mostly just to see if it could be done by a hamfisted clod. My success rate is about 80% or so, I'd never try it on anything valuable. Lucky for me blade centering isn't high on my looooong list of obsessions, so curiosity satisfied is good enough.
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I've also done it successfully. Never broken a blade. But, this is a very small sample size. I don't like to test my luck... It took more force than I would've liked and it didn't change things as much as I would've liked. It also introduced blade play which I then had to tighten up in a vise, peen the pin a little bit, sand the bolsters flush, and polish.

More to the point, I did it on knives I didn't mind losing. I wouldn't dare do it on a Case Bose collab knife. Just too valuable. I agree with others here. If it were me, I'd probably look for another one. Or if it's just a really really good deal, either contact case for warranty work or accept it as-is.
 
I get best results beating the blade with a mallet and the blade opened to the half stop position
Lay knife on side with blade tip touching table. Strike with mallet and centering will come to the side toward you ... if centering moves
However, I have snapped a Nontron blade in doing so
That said, I've recentered lots of blades successfully ... but they were only slightly off center

Furthermore and with that said ... you could send the knife back to Case and they will center the blade
I wouldn't hesitate to do so if the blade is so far off it almost strikes the liner
In fact, that far off and I wouldn't attempt anything else but a return to the mothership for a massage.

I've returned one knife to Case (many years ago) just for a recentering and wasn't charged a thing. Not even postage.
Thing is though, you have to contact Case customer service, discuss your concerns and receive return authorization.
But that is the route I would go. Especially with a Case Bose Lanny's Clip and the fact I may never have recentered a blade and had to ask a forum how to do it.

Other than that, I would start practicing recentering on the cheapest knives I own or care nothing about. There is a learning curve.
 
I have a Case Bose Wilfred lockback with a blade that was rubbing one of the scales. I sent it in to Case and they fixed it, but it isn’t perfectly centered and can wiggle when closed. Also the lock felt very different after getting it back. It used to be crisp and now it is…chewy?
 
Chocula said:
I have a Case Bose Wilfred lockback with a blade that was rubbing one of the scales. I sent it in to Case and they fixed it, but it isn’t perfectly centered and can wiggle when closed. Also the lock felt very different after getting it back. It used to be crisp and now it is…chewy?
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I'd bet the pivot pin got bent during the repair.
 
Chocula said:
I have a Case Bose Wilfred lockback with a blade that was rubbing one of the scales. I sent it in to Case and they fixed it, but it isn’t perfectly centered and can wiggle when closed. Also the lock felt very different after getting it back. It used to be crisp and now it is…chewy?
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Hooy....I think lockbacks are a whole different animal to correct...NOT like the slipjoints...

I'm not going to pretend to be an expert and hope someone better can chime in...but...to my understanding, 'some' lockbacks are designed in a way that the blade tightens when closed (no side to side movement) and loosen up (not by much) when closed (with side to side movement). My Case/Bose Lanny's, and Buck 110s are a good example of this.

On the other hand, some are tight, regardless of blade being open or closed. Some are loose open or closed. My Rough Ryders and a custom lock backs are the other examples.

I would think the way to correct blade centering on the above examples will differ depending which way it was designed/built.

Some scenarios...
1) Crink the blade
2) Bend the liners
3) Bend the pivot pin

Any expert thoughts?

Here is a video correcting Buck 110 bending the liners potentially...it may actually be both bending the liner and the pivot pin...


As far as your lock concern, I have no idea 😆
 
I followed this method and it worked flawlessly. I will warn you, you will be tempted to hit the blade a little harder after a few taps. It will seem like the little taps are not working. Then, like magic, the blade will start to center for you. Do not rush the process, especially on that knife.

I would even try it on a cheaper knife. Work it off center and then back to center. That will give you an idea of how light to tap the blade.

 
I've had great success with this on several of my slip joints, including my GEC Bullnose that I bought back in 2012. You do have to be very patient and careful not to smack the tang to hard. The only blade I've ever broken was a Rough Ryder mini canoe that cost me less than $10.
 
The questions I have are:
Are we talking about a full Case Bose limited edition cnc milled liners and all the trimmings super expensive one? Or a run of the mill Case TB one? ...Im guessing the latter....or how would it have passed qc?
Another thing to consider for any bending/ hammering operation/ surgery is ..How did it get off centre to begin with?
Oh yeah and with it being lame is it "for sale" or "on sale" ...I'd be making an offer ...for substantially less than asking price...the knife is sub par.

Cheers.
 
euroken said:
Hooy....I think lockbacks are a whole different animal to correct...NOT like the slipjoints...

I'm not going to pretend to be an expert and hope someone better can chime in...but...to my understanding, 'some' lockbacks are designed in a way that the blade tightens when closed (no side to side movement) and loosen up (not by much) when closed (with side to side movement). My Case/Bose Lanny's, and Buck 110s are a good example of this.

On the other hand, some are tight, regardless of blade being open or closed. Some are loose open or closed. My Rough Ryders and a custom lock backs are the other examples.

I would think the way to correct blade centering on the above examples will differ depending which way it was designed/built.

Some scenarios...
1) Crink the blade
2) Bend the liners
3) Bend the pivot pin

Any expert thoughts?

Here is a video correcting Buck 110 bending the liners potentially...it may actually be both bending the liner and the pivot pin...


As far as your lock concern, I have no idea 😆
Click to expand...
I never considered that lockbacks should be treated differently. And, I had never seen this method. Added to my mental notebook, thanks for sharing that video!!
 
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