Reeve Aviator: Compact Survival Knife

V

Vermonster

Joined
Jun 17, 2000
Messages
262
At this time I really believe the CRK Aviator is the best compact survival knife going. It is a full package deal. Has the saw for notching traps, hooch poles and makeshift tools. This of course is not a saw to make a log cabin. You have to keep it real.

The knife is compact enough so that there is no excuse not to have it on your belt or in your pack or cargo pocket. It’s small enough to fit in a lumbar pack or fanny pack.

The handle holds just enough stuff to see one through.

Contents of mine at this time:

1 large safety pin
1 small safety pin
3 small trout hooks
15’ fishing line
5/32 x 1 ¾ inch ferro rod
1 small light stick
1 bundle of waxed tinder
2 sewing needle
10’ sewing line
3 small sinkers
Snare wire

I have 10 feet of 550 cord around the outside of the sheath between the belt slots.


The A2 steel is tough enough to handle the toughest chores with ease such as batoning and separating wood. The blade coating keeps it somewhat corrosion free. The knife is easy to sharpen and keep sharp. It holds a incredible edge.
 
I went with the 4" Shadow III. I specifically didn't want teeth, but other than that it's a very similar knife. I haven't filled my handle yet. You have a nice kit, good place to start.
 
Nice kit in the handle.

I just got a Neil Roberts Warrior, and going back to the one piece handles is going to be hard.
 
I am a strong believer that Chris Reeve One-Piece knives are the best out there. I carry the Mountaineer II with me all the time. I have several in the 4" versions but personaly prefer the 5.5" ones. CRK just can't be beat.
 
I have used a Project and Green Beret, for general wood craft I would take a Becker Combat Bowie. The high flat grind has better cutting ability, especially in thicker woods and the handle much less prone to rolling. In regards to the hollow handle, you can prepare a similar kit and put it in the little add on pouches most sheaths come with.

As for the smaller Reeve blades, again compare them to similar Beckers or Swamp Rats like the Ritter MK12, Howling Rat, or even Mora 2000 if you are more into the school of higher cutting ability lower toughness. The Mora would cut traps and in general carve woods many times over more efficiently than the Reeve one pieces.

You can also get high cutting ability and toughness in the convex ground Blackjacks which have very thin edge profiles while retaining thick spines for strength. Get a decent Kydex sheath made from OST or similar and I would bet he would rig out quite a package for not very much money which would handle a much nicer kit than what you could pack into a handle.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,
What is a Ritter MK12? Ritter MK 1 from Benchmade perhaps, but that's a folder.
 
I have the Shadow IV and love it. I'm not much for hollow grinds but this one works very well for an outdoor use blade. It splits wood quite well without compromising edge integrity. Of course the A2 construction is top shelf.
Scott
 
Other than my Chris Reeves the only hollow grind blade I own is my Katz 302.

The hollow grind makes CRKs distinctive, and I like the way it tends not to stick when cutting/chopping thick materials.
 
I would like to break down some of my thinking a bit.

The Aviator to me is a true dedicated survival knife. Why?

Small enough to be carried anywhere at just about anytime. Sometimes larger fixed blades can not be carried for one reason or another ie: to heavy, long, uncomfortable etc. Then there are those that just need or want something small.
Also remember a true survival knife is one that will be with you when the crap hits the fan. I don’t know about you guy’s, I know I don’t run around with a 15 inch knife or even a 12 inch knife all the time. The 4 inch Reeves are knives that again, can be tucked just about anywhere and could be virtually invisible when carried if needed.


Large enough to accomplish most tasks encountered in the woods.
strong enough for most task encountered in the woods. Much more so than Mora type knives.

This knife is thin enough to cut VERY well, yet retains enough thickness at the same time.

Handle can be used for storage of critical items. Yes you can do this with pouches on sheaths, but this adds bulk to the compactness of the package.
 
Vermonster said:
The Aviator to me is a true dedicated survival knife. Why?

Small enough to be carried anywhere at just about anytime.
Click to expand...

That's why I'm considering buying one next time I can afford knife in that price range. :D I have several survival knives, but those don't get carried EDC. I consider the handle as something to carry an extra mini-kit in, so the old arguement about losing your kit if you lose your knife does not apply. How well does the saw work compared to typical saw-backed fixed blades?
 
I'll be getting an ubejane or aviator soon. I had a Nkonka, but it was really too big and bulky. I could carry my Battle Mistress more easily.
 
The saw works, but not like an SAK saw. It does saw small stuff. Think of it more as an abrading tool or ripper. It will make very precise notches and will tear through window or door screen with ease. It is actually made/designed to rip through light aircraft skins. Another use for the saw is to create fine powder from very dry wood for tinder. There are many uses and I think of it as just another feature.

The kit in the handle is last ditch only and should NEVER EVER replace a standard Surv-kit. It supplements the main kit or can act in a stand alone manner if one is unfortunate enough to be in a bad situation with nothing but the knife.
 
I never really felt the saw on saw back knives were really that effective. They seem to be better for notching traps and shelter poles. You still can't beat a traditional saw for actual sawing.
Scott
 
A saw on a knife could never replace a real saw. I have had some knives with sawbacks that did work very well, Parrish, Webster Wood, Dave Beck, TOPS that's just to name a few. Still, they will still never replace a real saw.

Those Bill Sanders knives are awesome and the small ones follow the same compact "true" survival knife theme.
For those that do not want or like the round handles of the CRK's those are a great option. Same price range as well.
 
Obviously it won't work as well as a real saw, but I'm not going to EDC an actual saw. I have a small one on my Victorinox Huntsman. The reason I'm looking at the Aviator is because it is small enough to actually carry EDC and I was wondering how well the saw would work if I happen to lose my SAK. My guess is that notching would probably be faster than with an SAK and actual cutting will be slower.
 
Benjamin Liu said:
My guess is that notching would probably be faster than with an SAK ...
Click to expand...
Notching is faster with a knife, even a quality saw can't cut a notch as fast as you can just chop it. Here is notch for a toggle trigger :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Heafner%20Bowie/hb_notch.jpg

The bottom cut is just one chop with the knife, which is then cleared out with light wrist pops.

Even if you have a light knife like a Mora 2000, just place the knife on the stick you want to notch and baton it.

Lashing points can be made in the same manner, just a quick v-notch.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,
I can make precise notches with the teeth on the back of the knife in no time at all. For small traps, small shelters etc it works well. Cliff, have you used an Aviator? I know you said you have used other knives from Reeve but have you used an Aviator?

Ben, you have just made a point that I am trying to convey.
This is a knife for those times when it's the only piece of gear you have. There are pictures somewhere of a guy that sawed through some 1/2 to 1 inch branches with an Aviator. It will work for small stuff.
I have no way to send pictures or I would
 
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