Reeve Aviator: Compact Survival Knife

I haven't needed to sharpen it yet, just a few passes on the kitchen steel. CPM 3V holds a good edge a long time. Fehrman knives are very sharp out of the factory.

The blade on the Fehrman Peace Maker has a flat grind across the 1.25" width. It slices much better than the thicker blades. The PM wasn't designed to be a pry bar but rather a superior utility/general purpose knife.
 
Vermonster said:
Skammer,
I do not need to prove anything to you or anyone else. And if my sharing has caused anyone reading to think I something I am not then they are reading into it or just trying to start crap. I have NEVER portrayed to be something I am not, nor will I ever.

If a poster has a veiw point I have the right to question that point. You as the poster have the right not to answer. If you feel like your point means something you will defend it. If not its drivel.
This is an open forum, people who do not wish to be questioned start your own forum where you won't be.

This is not personal in any way.

SKam
 
Be nice everyone or I am shutting down this thread.

If you want to be contrary, be polite about it.

Vermonster started a good discussion and it got bogged down by others jumping in with less than cordial responses. Chill out. It's only an internet forum.

Cliff tends to have time to get more specific than anyone else around here, and I often just breeze past his posts because they are often bogged down in minutae that have nothing to do with reality of use. I personally do not bring a microscope and concrete block into the woods.

Skam, chill out, please.
 
I personally do not bring a microscope and concrete block into the woods.
Neither do I. I often examine edges under a scope when I return though as the nature of how the edge behaves is informative. Without examining the edge it is unknown if the edge is blunting by wear, corrosion, fracture or deformation, this is rather critical if it is of interest to you to improve its performance.


Asn an application of the scope work, if for example you take your blade out for a days work and you come home and have to sharpen it because it is blunt. if you don't examine the edge and the damage is slight you have no way to know where to go for performance. If you do look at it though then you can tell and you can proceed to find a harder blade if it is rolling, a tougher blade if it is chipping, a more stain resistant blade if it is rusting, and so forth. Performance is in the details.

If you talk to Glesser, J.J , Busse, Lee, and many more they all will say that they learned a tremendous amount about steels by looking at the edge under a magnifier. It has a lot to do with actual performance "in the field". Then there is the massive difference it makes to ease of sharpening. A poster recently had problems with a Benchmade which prevented sharpening, as soon as I checked it under mag I knew exactly what the problem was and it could then be addressed.

As for the block, there is no need to take them out into the woods, there are enough rocks and other inclusions out there. The concrete block chopping in the reviews, which is done on rare occasions, not the majority of times, is usually at the request of the maker of the knife and intended to simulate such impacts - just another one of the minute details.

-Cliff
 
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