These are the ones that came with my latest purchase.
Sorry, I cannot remember all the posts. Which one is that?
The diamond stones I bought separately (The SSATC) are actually pretty good.
Way better than those that came with the Lansky IMO.
You're not the only one to complain about Lansky quality. It used to be considered a solid entry level or portable option. I don't know if they stood still while everyone else evolved, or if process and QC took a nosedive.
Please let me know how long those SSATC plates last.
I can see how that'd be possible ... maybe by varying pressure.
There are range of methods for on-stone burr reduction but I think one thing they all have in common is lighter strokes.
Also, I noticed that the TS Prof goes "with the grain" (parallel the edge) vs fixed angle which go across it.
You mean the instruction is to sweep one part of the stone or plate back and forth along the edge? That's going wear the stone very unevenly. The Edge Pro Professional model has a nice feature (still under patent?) I haven't seen duplicated: the stone ramp. This combined with the stop block on the other end lets you use the full stroke of a 6" stone without having to change direction on the stone, and it extends stone life. It's not recommend to use that at finer grits but it's still there as a catch zone if you over-stroke.
Sweeping parallel to the edge has another problem: you set the scratches parallel to the edge as well. In this orientation they cannot provide tooth to the slice, and if you do not fully remove them with a finer grit they can act as stress risers that weaken the edge.
I use diagonal strokes that vary between each stone's grit so I can see when I've removed the previous grit's scratches.
You've done other polishing, eh? Or clever. That's an excellent method I wish I had thought of myself but I had to pick it up from guides. You can use the change in reflection from the change of scratch pattern see where you are hitting the bevel, like one does using Shaprie. If you set up your work lighting for this it's really apparent without having to make a close examination of the blade. This is helpful on a semi-guided system like the Edge Pro where you can and often should move the blade around during sharpening. May be helpful on clamped systems too if using stones of different thickness.
I have a bunch of magnification options to include a stereo simulfocal microscope and a good camera that goes up to 40x (but I can use whichever magnification I want ... it's just a trade off between field of view vs detail). But ... I was just using a magnifying lens and or a headset which has magnification lenses.
You know ... I've considered buying something kinda like dental loupes that go over your eyes just to see how they work.
I had a business that did SMD // SMT rework (repairing electronics like motherboards, data recovery, etc).
Nice kit.
I wanted dental loupes until I saw the prices. I don't understand why they are custom made items; do you? Is there anything more than interpupillary distance to accommodate if the user does not need prescription glasses?
I think it's just kinda soft steel.
Try greatly increasing the sharpening angle (as much as double) and making two
very light edge leading passes, alternating sides between. Then return to the original sharpening angle and make a few light of edge trailing passes. The idea is to cut off the burr, then reform the edge and clean it up a bit without forming another large burr.
But since you mention it, I think it's where the rate of curve changes (approaching the tip).
The belly is always a bit more difficult. Freehand the curvature requires a slightly peculiar translation to keep the angle unless you instead
angle the stone. On a "blade table" system like the edge pro you may need change the angle of the knife on the rest to keep the edge close to perpendicular to the stone arm. I have yet to use a clamp system but I suspect you will need to control the rotation of the stone arm (about its long axis) to keep the stone stable on the edge; if you don't do this you'll probably round off tips as the stone begins to roll around the end of the blade instead of following the edge.
Another factor that changes flat to belly to is the contact pressure against the stone. The greater the curvature the higher the pressure the same force will produce, so you need to moderate your force in the belly.
I cannot believe how much you know about this topic dude.
Thank you. I actually rate my own knowledge as fairly shallow in most of this with the exception of grit classification schemes, present and historic. I have spent more hours than I can count on that topic in the creation and maintenance of the Grand Logarithmic Grit Chart so I can
really geek out on that.
"Amazing how deep this subject goes"—I had no idea how deep when I began that project.
