Ripped off

If batonned correctly, a hidden tang knife will not break.

If you are holding it hard enough that it breaks while batonning, you are doing it wrong.
Hold it loosely and hit the back of the blade.
 
deluxewarplaya said:
This knife is not my first knife. It is however, one of my latest ones.
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If anything you should be less surprised at the result you got from the knife.

the title of the thread is "ripped off", which to me relates to value.
If you had done your homework as everyone says, you probably would have gleamed the actual monetary value of the knife and thus expected less from it.

It sucks that your hard earned money went toward something that just broke like that. but dont forget the lesson here, dont listen to a word anyone at king of knives says. you should go ask them what they think full tang actually means and watch them fail.
 
FTO_dude said:
If anything you should be less surprised at the result you got from the knife.

the title of the thread is "ripped off", which to me relates to value.
If you had done your homework as everyone says, you probably would have gleamed the actual monetary value of the knife and thus expected less from it.

It sucks that your hard earned money went toward something that just broke like that. but dont forget the lesson here, dont listen to a word anyone at king of knives says. you should go ask them what they think full tang actually means and watch them fail.
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Very well. I shall heed your advice. :thumbup:
 
Deluxewarplaya,

If you elect to weld an extender to the real steel tang of your broken knife, I second the idea of a cloth/epoxy wrap to fashion a new handle. Be sure your cloth is fully saturated with no air pockets before you wrap, and wrap tight enough to squeeze out some excess resin. You can clamp the cloth wrap in stretch wrap while it cures to contain the mess and hold the outer layers tight to the inner layers.

The only die-cast part worth keeping is the finger guard and just enough of the false tang to anchor the guard well to the real tang. Do it and post some pics here!

Bill
 
Bill1170 said:
Deluxewarplaya,

If you elect to weld an extender to the real steel tang of your broken knife, I second the idea of a cloth/epoxy wrap to fashion a new handle. Be sure your cloth is fully saturated with no air pockets before you wrap, and wrap tight enough to squeeze out some excess resin. You can clamp the cloth wrap in stretch wrap while it cures to contain the mess and hold the outer layers tight to the inner layers.

The only die-cast part worth keeping is the finger guard and just enough of the false tang to anchor the guard well to the real tang. Do it and post some pics here!

Bill
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I was looking through my garage a few nights ago and found an old, unused fibreglass repair kit. I bought it for my boat ages ago and never got round to sealing it. I thought it might be useful in repairing the knife. Anyway, the kit has three main ingredients.

1) A big sheet of dry fibreglass, rolled up into a neat little package.
2) The resin, which contains 33% Styrene and
3) A catalyst (to get the reaction started)

My question is, is it worth using the fibreglass sheet or stick to the canvas/denim idea?

Kit 1 is the one I have.

http://72.47.234.130/files/downloads/Cons_Fibreglass_Kits_PDS_Aug10.pdf

As for the pics, I won't have time until December or thereabouts, but I'll definitely post some progress pics and the finished product when it is complete. Stay tuned.
 
Psycoman said:
You need to get a esee or becker that has a REAL full tang for battoning.
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^this!

I have a KA-BAR Becker BK-7 and a BK-9 - I am not afraid to baton with either and don't expect either to fail doing it. The ESEE 6 or Junglas would also handle batoning just fine - they cost more but have better sheaths & handles. The BK-9 sells for ~US$70 and can handle chopping & batoning much better than that POS that broke!

My BK-7:
http://www.gigatech.co.nz/Knives/Camping 2/IMG_8431.JPG
http://www.gigatech.co.nz/Knives/Camping 2/IMG_8432.JPG
http://www.gigatech.co.nz/Knives/Camping 2/IMG_8433.JPG
http://www.gigatech.co.nz/Knives/Camping 2/IMG_8444.JPG
http://www.gigatech.co.nz/Knives/Camping 2/IMG_8446.JPG
 
Batoning, baschmoning. Stuff breaks. That is just the way it goes.
It's too bad that some here are trying to find fault in your research of the knife/ experience or technique. STUFF BREAKS GUYS !!

The knife looks salvagable.
I think your ideas about fixing it are good.
It'll be a one of a kind and have a good story to go with it.
 
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FYI, you are not supposed to hit the handle, but instead the spine. Try that, sand I bet you break less knives...

BTW, I would love to hear Muela's response.... I'm bettin' abuse ain't on the warranty.
 
Nice little collection deluxe , but nothing there made to suit batoning. I notice you like stainless steel blades ? What experience have you had with non stainless steels , It would certainly be my preference in a fixed blade knife , due to toughness and ease of sharpening.
 
jimh0220 said:
BTW, I would love to hear Muela's response.... I'm bettin' abuse ain't on the warranty.
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It may be as simple as "WE never claimed that model was a full tang knife, take it up with the store if someone there gave you incorrect information". So far the only real rip off has been when the OP was sold a knife that he was told was full tang when clearly that knife isn't. Sometimes it is just that salesman trying to push product that is giving information that isn't true and you can't really blame the knife manufacturer for that.

Having said that - I wouldn't buy a knife with that tang/handle design for AU$120. Maybe my Mora Bushcraft Triflex doesn't have any stronger a handle *shrug* but it was only US$20 so I'm happy with that.
 
Yeah , whilst using the baton method , in OZ , on OZ hardwood isnt recommended , (seriously , its super hard stuff , I used to live out bush where I had to bust it up so I could have a hot shower for cooking etc) the shop dude totally led you astray , I dont think it matters if you ground down the guard . Seriously , go back to that store at peak hour , with a bunch of other shoppers there , and demand a refund or replacement if they try to shunt you off , ask to speak to the manager . I really think they owe you a repacement , I mean , you left the store thinking you had the correct tool right ?
Get an esee or Becker knife thats designed and warranted for your use. Esee even have a no questions asked warranty.
 
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bigbadboom said:
Yeah , whilst using the baton method , in OZ , on OZ hardwood isnt recommended , (seriously , its super hard stuff , I used to live out bush where I had to bust it up so I could have a hot shower for cooking etc) the shop dude totally led you astray , I dont think it matters if you ground down the guard . Seriously , go back to that store at peak hour , with a bunch of other shoppers there , and demand a refund or replacement if they try to shunt you off , ask to speak to the manager . I really think they owe you a repacement , I mean , you left the store thinking you had the correct tool right ?
Get an esee or Becker knife thats designed and warranted for your use. Esee even have a no questions asked warranty.
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Yeah, but I've got no receipt. What good is complaining without a receipt to prove the date I purchased it, for them to send it back to the manufacturer and get me a replacement or even worse, store credit, which frankly I don't want.

I'm happy to accept my loss after reading this thread and continue on with fixing the handle. The idea that I can turn my loss into a gain with a few scraps of steel, is very appealing to me. What was a, I dunno, US$60 or what I paid AU$120, I can turn it into a real knife that should last a lifetime and learn so much along the way.

Besides, I can't justify more money thrown into buying a new knife after only a short while from buying this one.
 
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