Ripped off

HandofCod said:
What, like a knife?

batoning1.jpg


IMG_0204.jpg
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BustedRecon720.jpg


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328256

Not saying that RS is a bad knife. It is good and can take some beating. But anything can break.
 
EMT_Lee said:
Actually, if you go post this in W&SS you'll get about the same response. Trust me, it's been done. Try running a search on the topic. Regardless, just because a collective group of people believe something doesn't make it true. But, nice job jumping the gun calling people ignorant, and then following up by calling them trolls. Pot calling the kettle black. Anyways, we'll all submit to your superior knowledge of all things outdoors. Cool?
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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781644

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=778189&highlight=baton

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777245&highlight=baton

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=776029&highlight=baton
 
As I recall the issue with the Recon Scout was the stress riser at the hilt/blade interface . . . that and the cold weather. Even then I don't understand how it would break if the stress is all in the blade and the hilt is just guiding the blade. Dynamics at work I don't understand. . .
 
My best guess is it was poor quality control and the blade broke at the weakest point. I've also seen nutnfancy pushing down hard on the handle with the spine pointing upwards. That's asking for trouble.
 
HandofCod said:
I see this pic from 2005 pop up every time I mention Recon Scout. It was from Nutnfancy and he STILL has several and yes, still 'abuses' them without a problem.
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That's the nature of the Internet. In some cases the mistakes of user are blamed on a product.
Once again, I do think RS is a good knife and can take some abuse. I just don't see why one need to abuse it to extreme every time when chance comes up. Take the picture of that broken RS. I didn't read the whole thread, but I'm sure that if there was a tool to cut such big log, there should be a better tool to split it. Otherwise why not to cut a smaller log?
Most of the "proud" batoning pictures I see, people choose the biggest log. Then they go on beating on a knife splitting the log right in the middle. If knife survives it is praised and loved, if it fails it immediately called bad (or flawed), and question rise up "what happened?" Then it spread on the internet, along with other pictures how the same or a different knife survived the same kind of beating, making people believe that this is how one should do it and that's what knife should be able to handle.
After looking at the pics, a new guy goes into the woods and does the same. Biggest log that knife can handle furiously batoned through all the knots right in the middle. When you ask those people, why? They might say it is because it saves time to split the largest log in the middle. I somehow don't believe this. In most cases wood can be chosen according to the tools you have on you. Remember, you have to cut it (or chop it), possibly drag it to the camp site, cut it into the logs, then split it. Processing 5" log is not much faster than two 3" logs. And you have much better chances of avoiding the failure. Batoning doesn't need to be such an extreme procedure if done a bit differently.
 
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HandofCod said:
I see this pic from 2005 pop up every time I mention Recon Scout. It was from Nutnfancy and he STILL has several and yes, still 'abuses' them without a problem.
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yea but you are not on the net saying to everyone that you where ripped off. It is a knife that is a big peace of crap. The people that made the knife dont know what they are doing and that is my point.
 
HandofCod said:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781644

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=778189&highlight=baton

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777245&highlight=baton

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=776029&highlight=baton
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Thanks for proving my point? Mixed responses, just like in this thread. I guess I'm still failing to see your point, though. Are you trying to prove that some knives are capable of being beat through wood? Obviously, they can. I own knives that have done it, and survived easily. But, it's not a true test of -all- knives, and it shouldn't be expected of any "outdoor" knife. I find it's more practical for me to carry a small hachet for chopping/splitting and leave my knives for cutting/slicing/etc. If you don't, that's great.

Was the knife in the OP well made? Not really. It had an obviously weak tang. However, I dare to say that it would have probably provided years of service if it were only called upon to... cut/slice/etc.
 
EMT_Lee said:
Was the knife in the OP well made? Not really. It had an obviously weak tang. However, I dare to say that it would have probably provided years of service if it were only called upon to... cut/slice/etc.
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After I make some adjustments to the handle, I think it will be the perfect weapon for for exactly that, cutting/slicing etc.
 
I didn't realize so many people were against the concept of batoning. I've done it with many knives and never had a problem, and personally would expect any good camping fixed blade to do it.
 
bigbadboom said:
Yeah , its evident the OP hasnt researched his tool or technique. The fact that he went and purchased a knife from a king of knives store says everything right there. They are notorious for charging INSANE prices. I think hes new to knives and just believed whatever he was told.
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sambo. said:
buying any knife from an Australian dealer is just begging to get ripped off in a big way. the markups Australian retailers put on knives is horrific.
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I've gotta agree here.
If OP had done the proper research regarding knife/tang construction, steels and done some proper bargain hunting, he wouldnt have ended up with an extremely overpriced and underspecification Muela.
I own two Muelas, a storm and an outdoors 16. and i know their capabilities.

bigbadboom said:
I'd bet he watched a bunch of North american oriented survival vids , went to the only knife shop he knew and headed right out to the of the city to destructo his knife. ( probly on the recent long weekend we just had)
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or maybe a few too many episodes of man vs. wild

bigbadboom said:
This reminds me of the story I heard about the American woodchoppers that came down-under , though they would whip the locals pants , but they never heard of australian hard wood , so they just broke tools and looked bad.
The whole baton caper is an American thing , Ive never felt the need to baton while camping in Australia.
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This is a fact.
The australian wilderness is dominated by gum trees, not the most ideal wood for batoning.
I thought the purpose of batoning was to reach the dry wood in the middle, not a problem for most of the year in australia

i'd like to extend an invitation to OP to join up at urban conquest
http://www.urbanbunker.proboards.com/index.cgi
you will not find a better price from an australian store.
Ron(the owner) has got an ESEE 6(definately full tang and much more suited to your purpose) in stock for only $40 more than you paid for your Muela.
 
bigbadboom said:
Deluxe , why dont you enter your knife in this thread (and maybe win a knife?) :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=782978
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Thanks for the heads up. I've just posted in that thread.

tabeeb762 said:
What are your planned modifications?

Maybe something like this?
eng5.jpg

eng2.jpg
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I was going to just fill the handle with some epoxy resin and wrap it in duct tape which is probably a stronger combination than the original design anyway.

If you notice in the pic, the real tang stops short.



I've also thought about breaking off all the junk around the real tang and using my mig welder to stick another piece onto the end of it, effectively making it longer than the real tang. Then doing something similar to the rabbet tang as above.

FTO_dude said:
I've gotta agree here.
If OP had done the proper research regarding knife/tang construction, steels and done some proper bargain hunting, he wouldnt have ended up with an extremely overpriced and underspecification Muela.
I own two Muelas, a storm and an outdoors 16. and i know their capabilities.


or maybe a few too many episodes of man vs. wild


This is a fact.
The australian wilderness is dominated by gum trees, not the most ideal wood for batoning.
I thought the purpose of batoning was to reach the dry wood in the middle, not a problem for most of the year in australia

i'd like to extend an invitation to OP to join up at urban conquest
http://www.urbanbunker.proboards.com/index.cgi
you will not find a better price from an australian store.
Ron(the owner) has got an ESEE 6(definately full tang and much more suited to your purpose) in stock for only $40 more than you paid for your Muela.
Click to expand...

It amazes me how so many people like to assume things before asking. This knife is not my first knife. It is however, one of my latest ones. I also own a SOG Seal Pup, Ka-Bar next gen (1221), Muela Pik-As skinning knife (which has been used to skin animals btw) an Ontario RAT 1 folder and a Leatherman Charge TTi. Don't believe me? here's a pic.



I'm getting irritated by peoples assumptions in this thread.

To think that I watched Man Vs Wild and got eager to head outdoors doesn't even deserve a response.

On a lighter note, thanks for the invitation to join those forums. I've just registered.
 
deluxewarplaya said:
I was going to just fill the handle with some epoxy resin and wrap it in duct tape which is probably a stronger combination than the original design anyway.

If you notice in the pic, the real tang stops short.

I've also thought about breaking off all the junk around the real tang and using my mig welder to stick another piece onto the end of it, effectively making it longer than the real tang. Then doing something similar to the rabbet tang as above.
Click to expand...

Thea die cast crap is useless. If it broke once it willl break agan so I say get rid of it.
I like the idea of welding an extension. Instead of just filling you can soak some denim/canvas in epoxy and wrap it tight, then clamp it between two wood boards and sand it to shape when it cures.
 
EMT_Lee said:
Ok, well.. I disagree. If you beat your knife through a log, and it breaks, that's your fault. Don't get me wrong. I don't care if people want to baton their knives and treat them like axes... but, I think it's crazy when they get mad when they break. It's not what a knife is for.

The -only- instance I can see where getting upset would be warranted, would be if the company who made the knife said "This knife is great for beating through logs!" Otherwise, it's abusive.
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Sorry, but that just isn't true.

Sure, it's not what all knives are for, but many knives are designed with exactly this type of use in mind, and can handle it all day long.

Obviously a hidden half-tang bowie knife isn't one of those, though...
 
I don't know why there are people who defend the knife and the company. It's obvious they're cutting corners by using this design. It's just made to fail.

That being said, OP should be criticized for not doing his homework. It's not exactly hard to inform yourself. What the OP was looking for was a survival knife that can take some hard use. There are tons of reviews on the web and on youtube. *cough* noss destruction tests *cough*

Personally I can only recommend two companies: Busse/kin and Fallkniven. These are the only companies of which I have not yet seen reports of a failed blade.
 
Skrapmetal said:
Sorry, but that just isn't true.

Sure, it's not what all knives are for, but many knives are designed with exactly this type of use in mind, and can handle it all day long.

Obviously a hidden half-tang bowie knife isn't one of those, though...
Click to expand...

Ok, granted. Some knives are designed for that type of use. If you'll read my later posts in this thread, I concede that point. I own some of those knives. In fact, many of the knives designed with that type of use in mind are nicknamed 'choppers'.

However, I stand by my assertion that it's not the true test of a good outdoors knife, and it is not the most practical way of obtaining split wood. If your knife breaks from abusive behavior, i.e. beating it through hard objects, you don't have a lot of ground to get mad. Some knife companies warrant their products against that type of breakage, and if that is what you want to use your knife for.. I suggest buying from one of those companies.
 
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