Rough Ryder Reserve: New Premium Rough Ryder Line

Misplaced Hillbilly said:
You mean you don't carry 3-7 knives daily!!!??? :eek:
Uh.. maybe thats just me...but I have kept it down to just two knives lately :p
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Haha, two is typical- usually a SAK recruit for bottle opening, screwdrivers/prying and expendable blades, and then a GEC. Maybe if RRR could produce something a little more straight forward, it could push out the occasional GEC.
 
The RRR line is supposed to come in batches of 4 and these 3 are in the first batch. Number 4 will be in the second batch and there should be at least one more batch after that so there will probably be a lot of knives in this line.

Will try to buy most of the series unless the prices get too high and the quality goes down. So far, in my opinion, the value is there for each knife. For example, may pass on the Barback if it is too high. It should not be the same price as the Whittler for sure.
 
I bought the first three, I would like to collect them all, but who knows how many that will be? It could get expensive...
 
The Kayak one?
Edges do appreciate being convex if you are able to do that, I really like the one I have
G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
The Kayak one?
Edges do appreciate being convex if you are able to do that, I really like the one I have
G2
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I believe so. I can convex it if I want to. I should have it by the end of the week. With the forum knife, I have a knife surge going on. If I can get one of the white bone GEC #19's I will probably do that as well. If I miss the GEC, no big thing....

I got their email today with the premium rough ryder offerings. In the past, they seemed to have sold out pretty quickly, so I ordered along with a few other things to push the total above their free shipping amount.
 
Anyone have a open pull weight on the RRR003 (whittler)? Arthritis in hands, don't want a knife I can't open. Very easy =1, nearly impossible=10.
Thanks
 
I would place the pull on the main blade of the whittler just a little stronger than a Swiss Army medium sized folder, compared to my Pioneer model.

The two smaller blades lighter than the Swiss Army's as you would expect.

One 'trick' if you can call it that, for opening slip joints, I place my thumb nail into the nail nick as far towards the tip as possible to gain the leverage advantage and while my thumb is in place, I do NOT try to move my thumb at all, BUT I pull the knife handle AWAY from my thumb so my thumb nail is stationary and you have more strength by being able to grip the entire handle and pull that away from your thumb nail and opening the blade up or at least as far enough so you can then pinch grip the blade to open it the rest of the way.
G2
 
You're welcome, try that 'trick' on those to see if you get what I was trying to get across as far as an opening method on slip joints.
G2
 
Gary
Yes, that method helps. I've tried it on the Marbles D2 stockman - much easier to open that way and no ripped thumbnail :)
thanks
Rich
 
Great! Glad to hear it and I thought it might help out as we get older our nails seem more fragile.
G2
 
G2

Anything helps. I'm older than dirt ;) Still debating the RRR0003 - like the basic whittler design, but not really fond if large spear points. May have to regrind the back to a clip point. D2 is a b!tch to regrind. Have done it on another brand - grind a little, cool a lot. Still takes a long time, then repolish the blade back. Oh well, might give me something to do besides blankly staring at various Star Trek reruns.:rolleyes:
 
I’m not very fond of fat blades either and my plan was to turn it into a clip but once I got it I am ok as it isn’t too abrupt fat point, so it works ok for me but you never know what I might do next:)
G2

edited to add this shot of mine, you can see how I put a nice convex edge on the blade too;

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
 
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Looks nice and looks like a lotta work
:)
G2
 
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