Rust-proof Steels -- H1 vs. X15 T.N.

i have read the steel analysis of elements.
i find that :
x15 :have ,more mo & v
h1 : have more ni(about 7%.).

in conclusion , i guess h1 will be more corrsive resistance,but not tough than x15 because of the higher content ni content.
but, x15 is more tough as it with more mo & v.

anyway , i prefer to choose x15
 
Ming65 said:
I've seen the 'soaking the H1 in salt water for 3-months' threads. But I'm wondering about the lack of oxygen in these tests. Regularly exposed to salt water then exposed to the air would be more likely to produce rust IMO (as Steven did).

From this day forth, in the interests of furthering mankinds essential knowledge of steel, I resolve to never clean the salt water, sweat and grime off my P-Salt. Results to follow.
Click to expand...


I thought of that. This is how I tested an early Pacific Salt:


I filled the jar enough that half the knife is out of the water so that it is exposed to air. Once a day (or every other day when I forgot) I gave the jar a shake so that the exposed part gets a new dunking in the seawater. Every few days I took the Salt out and checked it for signs of rust. When I put it back in, I flipped it around so that the half that was above the water was under water.


Here’s a summary of my salt water torture testing:


No rust after over a month in the salt water/ salt air.

No rust on the H1 parts after another month with a copper wire wrapped around the Spyderhole to induce galvanic action (did get a tiny bit of rust on one of the non-H1 pivot washers…these washers have since been replaced with a different material to eliminate the possibility of rust).

No rust on the H1 parts after a week in a 50/50 solution of bleach and sea water (did get heavier rust on the pivot washers and some on the edges of the non-H1 steel clip where the coating was worn away…..the pocket clips have since been changed to titanium).


Details here -

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344293



I also did an H1 edge holding comparison on cardboard with VG10 in plain and serrated edges.

A plain edged H1 Atlantic Salt cut through 204 feet of cardboard before I decided it was time for a visit to the SharpMaker.

A plain edged VG10 93 mm Rescue made it through an impressive 570 feet.

A Serrated H1 Atlantic Salt cut 858 feet.

And a serrated 93mm Rescue went 876 feet.

I thought that H1 edge retention was quite good for a rust proof steel and that the results in serrated guise was close enough to VG10 that I would prefer H1 to anything else for serrated edges.

Here are the details:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=372653






- Frank
 
Thanks Frank. Your tests are exactly why I said a while back, (half jokingly) that Spyderco could just make H1 their default steel when someone wants a serrated edge.

I am a big fan of H1. The one thing that stands out to me about it is that yes it typically won't keep up in a cutting test like the plain edge H1 vs the VG10 blade mentioned above by Frank, but H1 comes back up to a super sharp edge again much easier than anything else I've ever sharpened. In fact I venture to bet it takes about 1/4 the work or time to bring an H1 blade back to biting sharp. At least that has been the case for me.

So the lack of edge keeping for long term cutting is somewhat negated for me because of this. Just a few strops on a flat board with some polish paste, or a leather with some on it, or even a flat cardboard from the back of a legal pad and its up and running again.

STR
 
Thanks for posting that Frank - I remembered the thread but was too lazy to go searching for it myself (as we know, typing 'H1' into the search function can be fiendishly difficult:) )

I like the ease of sharpening too, it makes for a great field/utility steel for someone who isn't sharpening retarded. Overall I'm still waiting for my H1 knives to turn into pumpkins at midnight......
 
If I was looking for a rust proof knife, I'd want it done right. Screws, springs, whatever is in the knife should be consistent throughout. If H1 requires a little more frequent sharpening/honing, I actually don't mind that much since I enjoy sharpening knives anyways.
 
My EDC for the last several years has been the Salt 1 plain edge and I could not be happier.

It's a pretty tough little knife that is very easy to sharpen, with a stronger tip than the regular delica. It's also a knife that does not scare the crap out of regular non-knife people when you offer to cut something for them, and also will do a good job on a porterhouse at your favorite restaurant!

When I'm working outdoors heavy use I go with something more substantial but combined with a good multi-tool the Salt 1 is a great choice for EDC. I was so impressed that I ended up purchasing the Pacific and the Aqua versions for use during trips to the beach.
 
As a addendum to my previous post, another thing that I love about the little Salt 1 is that I can clean it just by sticking it in the dishwasher. I've probably run that thing through 100 times and have had no problems. The black finish on the clip did start to come off, but I sanded it with high grit sandpaper and to me it looks better w/o the finish.

From my experience the Spyderco Salt series are the ultimate in low/no maintenance knives, other than requiring periodic sharpening of course.
 
I too have been carrying a Salt 1 for a while. I swap between a plain edge and serrated one. Both are nice, get really sharp, and are even lighter than my regular Delica. I carried each in a salt water pool for an afternoon, and both had some spots on the "1" in the "H1" laser etch on the blade, but no where else.
 
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