Thanks Gunsnknives!
Weather wasn’t cooperating with us this week
Patrice and I were chatting about materials and the idea came out to find a piece of wood that would mimic the SanMai pattern through the handle. I also wanted to keep the look Dark to match the Brute De Forge Finish. I searched my supply and found nothing that would work.
In my haste I contacted Mark From Burl Source and he (As Always) said he would find some stuff that might work and throw it in a box for me. As well as some pieces I ordered for some other projects in the works. Mike Davis also stepped up with a beautiful piece of Ironwood he had, and he would send it my way for consideration as well. I am always amazed at the generosity found here in the knife community.
Yesterday This showed up in the mail from Mark:
Mikes Package hasn’t shown up yet, No fault of his I am just running short on time. So I looked through the pieces and found the absolute perfect piece. Mark Nailed this one! The bottom left piece is Black Spalted Maple Burl with a perfect EKG line running length wise down the block.
I didn’t have a lot of room to play with, I lined the tang up how I wanted the line to run. The scales are book matched so I wanted to keep them even. I clamped them together, and put them in my drill press vise, making sure the scales were flush with the top of the vice. This will keep everything square during the process.
I don’t like drilling through thick material, the bits tend to grab and heat up more. I drilled 2 alignment holes.
I then separate the scales and insert assembly pins into the alignment holes. Using white out pen outline the tang and again clamp the tang to the scale.
I take each scale to the drill press and finish drilling the remaining holes. Leaving the Assembly pins in place.
Here we have both scales drilled and the tang outlined with white
I am using ¼” and 1/8” Pins, I drill the pin holes a little bigger to allow for easier assembly and better epoxy adhesion. I drill the holes again with #F (1/4” Holes) and #30 (1/8” Holes)
I then drill shallow Epoxy holes to assure Glue will remain in contact with the tang when clamped up.
I decided to add a G10 Liner between the Steel and the Spalted Maple so I Epoxied them up… Normally I do this before any drilling.
here I carefully drill through the Existing holes with the F and 30 bit to punch through the liner material.
I reapplied the White marker to the liners
and Drill the shallow Epoxy holes again, making sure to just reach the Maple scales to increase strength.
I then use the band saw to cut just outside the lines, that way the Epoxy will pool around the tang filling any voids and cracks.
Now I need to make sure the Front of the scales are finished exactly as I want them because I will not be able to work on them when they are attached to the Blade.
Sorry for the blurry photo
I am ready to Epoxy the scales to the Tang. I sand all the surfaces that will be glued with 100 Grit sand paper. Then wipe the surfaces with Acetone to remove any dirt or oil. I use Acraglas from Brownells and love it.
Once I have the pins cut to size I always do a dry run, nothing worse than getting the glue spread everywhere only to find you can’t get it to go together.
I mix the Acraglas (8:2) for larger knives (Or 2 smaller knives) or 4:1 for a small knife. Stir it lightly for 4 minutes then I added Black Dye
I spread the epoxy evenly over both scales making sure to fill all the holes.
I then twist the pins into the appropriate holes to evenly spread glue around them.
I then Slip the tang into place over the pins, and fill the voids with Epoxy
Then I slip the other scale on to the pins, and clamp them in place. Using Acetone I remove any glue that is in the ricasso area, then apply a very light coat of Oil in that area to ensure it is clean.
Now the Acraglas needs to cure….