Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Depends on what you are doing with it, you can't chop or impact it, but you don't want to do this with D2 either. I have several really hard blades, I use them all the time, and I don't baby them, I don't pry with them, and don't torque on them, but I will cut most anything.nenofury said:... real world use would destroy a knife that hard
You don't need to go as extreme as the ones I listed however, that is just how I would run them for cutting blades, if you want to take about digging, prying, chopping, metal/bone cutting, and so on, then yes, stainless starts to become really problematic.
Less than five minutes with benchstones and a Sharpmaker to remove visible size chips if the edges needed to be actually reset. The ones I have are really easy to sharpen due to the way they are ground....and how many hours would it take to sharpen it after a suffering a chipped edge or one that is simply worn?
Most sharpening problems come from starting with too fine a hone, I use a 220 grit SiC waterstone. It chews into steel fast, you can make a much more aggressive one from a 80 grit AO belt and a stick of hardwood.
I agree there, you can easily find better carbon than stainless, I would not argue that, but not all carbon is better than all stainless.If corrosion/rust resistance isn't an issue, there is no reason to go stainless.
Both.Your comments about 52100...are you talking stock removal knives or forged?
Consider the forging more of a shaping process than anything else. It has other effects, mainly on grain refinement through dislocation density increases, but this isn't the only factor in steel performance, much of the performance will come from how it is hardened after the forging.I would think a forged and differentially treated knife of 52100 would be able to survive almost anything.
-Cliff