Seriously - what to do about quench oil?????????? This is ludicrousness!

ok - I second the use of a 5" by 36" steel pipe for quenching. It works for long swords and knives. It uses about 4 gallons.

Otherwise, I will let y'all in on a big secret.
WATER.

It is, my god, even faster than Parks. Cheap, too. Free if you are willing to wait a little while for it.

For any blade less than 8", quenching in water and interrupting into canola or motor oil or pork fat or whatever you like is really safe. Just leave it a little thicker. It is still safe out to 27" swords, with pattern welding, if you just leave it a little thicker and do an interrupt.

Now, I use Parks 50 for a lot. I use the combo of Water and Parks for a lot. If speed and price are the issues, it a simple one. Not putting Parks down. It is a great tool, and if you can, get it. Just that there are other tools out there, and water meets most of the needs that people have. If you learn to use it right. Just like any other tool.

Water is a much better choice for 1095 or W1 or W2 than the 11 sec oil made by anyone. It just is. There is a small chance of losing a blade, and it will happen more until you get your temp control and grind size worked out. But, it is better than giving someone a blade that is not fully hardened when it is supposed to be.
kc
 
Last edited:
IIRC, both Brownells and McMaster-Carr oil is rebadged Houghton.
 
Question for you as I just made a dual tank so I can quickly switch between water and oil for w2.

How long should the quench be in the water before switching to the oil? Do you heat the water or oil at all?
 
How long should the quench be in the water before switching to the oil?

Long enough to get past the pearlite nose. 4 1/2 seconds for W2 austentized at 1450F.

When we water quenched 1086M (pretty darn close to W2) blades in Howard Clark's katana class, we went into 115°F water for 4 seconds, out for 3 seconds, then back in until the vapor jacket stopped boiling.
 
Back
Top