Session Sharpening

We can be confident of the narrow definition of this axe as shingle axe, by adding up the design features and all that, of course, but I'd contend its usefulness is even more constricted, to what I'd call a " cedar shingle axe " based on the presumption, even from the conceptual moment, that in its context, shingle (wood) = cedar. The edge material/treatment not too suitable for material beyond that from what I can make out till now.
Yes, Sq.P. with some good luck I'm hoping to get all shingled up before snow flies.
 
I’m so provincial, I never knew shingles were sawn/split from any wood but cedar. Tell you what though, shinglers now pay more for crappier shingles than back in the day. When I invent a working time machine, I’m driving it straight back to an old time shingle mill and loading up the dump truck.

Parker
 
Nice specimen, BTW. Is it a Plumb?

I’d probably use a lathing hatchet up on a shingle roof, little lighter and I set my exposure with a purpose made gauge.

Parker
 
Ernest DuBois said:
We can be confident of the narrow definition of this axe as shingle axe, by adding up the design features and all that, of course, but I'd contend its usefulness is even more constricted, to what I'd call a " cedar shingle axe " based on the presumption, even from the conceptual moment, that in its context, shingle (wood) = cedar. The edge material/treatment not too suitable for material beyond that from what I can make out till now.
Yes, Sq.P. with some good luck I'm hoping to get all shingled up before snow flies.
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It's a good point that these are really for cedar shingles.

In Mercer's "Ancient Carpenter's Tools" he shows several much heavier hatchets which are described as "shingling hatchets". At first I questioned if that was accurate. But a little research found that before west coast cedar was widely available DIYers in the NE used white oak as a shingling material. It's much more rot resistant than red oak and a very suitable material for shingling. But it's tough as oaks are and required a much heavier hatchet to work it.
 
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catspa said:
I’m so provincial, I never knew shingles were sawn/split from any wood but cedar. Tell you what though, shinglers now pay more for crappier shingles than back in the day. When I invent a working time machine, I’m driving it straight back to an old time shingle mill and loading up the dump truck.

Parker
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IN fact, my shingle experience is with any wood other than cedar - ok, maybe an exaggeration, probably half and half quercus robur and sweet chestnut with some experimentation in poplar and spruce, I can't wait further explorations in Spruce, yes, and I've seen Larch shingles. Set your machine further back still to when the standard was wedge and froe and get a load of those. Better yet, fuck the machine and make your own to the highest of standards.

catspa said:
Nice specimen, BTW. Is it a Plumb?

I’d probably use a lathing hatchet up on a shingle roof, little lighter and I set my exposure with a purpose made gauge.

Parker
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I think you are on to something with this lath axe substitution. I was struck by the bulk and weight of this particular axe, just as you've named it, as well, the thickness of the blade. Well, my remedy is altering he edge geo. failing that keeping my eyes open for a lath axe for sure. I do have a question on technique for you though, why guage the exposure at all rather than use a line?
 
When laying a whole new roof, I do use a line every 10 courses or so, just to make sure I’m not getting too far from parallel. But most of my work is spot repair, and lining every course is a lot of moving back and forth on old shingles that could be damaged by it. Also, on a steep pitch, I prefer not to be constantly ranging around the edges, rather to install an area within my reach and then the adjacent area.

There are a lot of old cedar roofs around here, and a lot of people trying to make them last “just one more winter”. Very few choose to replace them with cedar shakes or shingles, much more common is to pull the old stripping, lay solid sheeting, and metal over that.

SP, good point about oak shingles needing a stouter hatchet. Dry cedar is pretty easy to shape and split, even with a knife if needed.

Parker
 
Oh yeah, working from an established line the built in mechanism or a dedicated Guage makes perfect sense as you describe. Even with no reference I see the drawback of stretching a line out beyond the edges of the eaves, the advantage being able to deck the first row's nails sufficiently.
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I would take up the generous offer only would not know about the mechanics of such a transaction which I'd not want to detail in a public forum.
 
Roofing hatchets were originally full. I think the extra cutting edge on the bottom was for cutting felt paper and asphalt shingles.
 
Ernest, I’d need your mailing address. I don’t know how to PM on this forum, perhaps we need paid memberships for that. Let me look into it and see what I can come up with.

Parker
 
Okay Ernest, after scanning the first 10 pages of tech support, what I think I understand is that private messaging requires both parties to be basic membership level or above, unless the initiating party is a moderator. Basic is pretty cheap (10 bucks per year).

One option is, we each upgrade to basic, then you PM me your mailing address, then I ship you a lath hatchet, then you whack some shingles with it. Seems pretty straight forward to me, although a little delayed because I’ll have to find a forum mailing address and send them a money order. That sound okay, or do you have a different idea?

Parker
 
catspa said:
Okay Ernest, after scanning the first 10 pages of tech support, what I think I understand is that private messaging requires both parties to be basic membership level or above, unless the initiating party is a moderator. Basic is pretty cheap (10 bucks per year).

One option is, we each upgrade to basic, then you PM me your mailing address, then I ship you a lath hatchet, then you whack some shingles with it. Seems pretty straight forward to me, although a little delayed because I’ll have to find a forum mailing address and send them a money order. That sound okay, or do you have a different idea?

Parker
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Did you try clicking on the purple E associated with my entries? There seems to be an alternative line direct to member profile pages. Please try it and I will as well from your pink C link.
 
garry3 said:
Roofing hatchets were originally full. I think the extra cutting edge on the bottom was for cutting felt paper and asphalt shingles.
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I think you know as well as I do of these modern roofing axes with dispensable blades only mounted on the under-side of the blade. No doubt a tool exclusively for asphalt shingling. I've sharpened this lower edge provision, not taking too much care and until now see it as basically useless in my situation here. By the way, what is this part of an axe called, I wonder.
 
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I have a somewhat older German made carpenters side axe - single bevel - with a similar provisional bevel down there.
 
Garry, the mfgrs might have intended that function, but I’ve never met a roofer who used the under blade or corner on asphalt shingles. They’re quite abrasive, and two squares would radius the corner so as to be about useless. Felt paper, yes - I have seen cut that way a few times, especially during tearoff. But every roofer carries a retractable utility knife, which works much better. (Old coots sometimes carry a nonretractable one, like a Stanley 199 or similar. If they’re real old and coot-y, they have a little stone to touch up the blades. DAMHIKT.)

Parker
 
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