Sharpen a Busse

oh, thank you for that guys. Will a ceramic stick work for a convex edge touch up? im guessing the sandpaper is only thing for convex by hand? thanks
 
Horn Dog said:
For big jobs like convexing or reprofiling an edge, I use a Kalamazoo 1" x 42" belt sander.
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Could you tell me what belts/grits you use for convexing and what your process is? I've got a belt sander, but afraid to try convexing a Busse with it until I get some tips. Thanks
 
230grains said:
You'll end up with almost a microbevel and eventually the convex edge will start to straighten out.
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Over time yeah, but for light touch ups they are great, talking about one or 2 strokes on each side. That's all it takes me to touch up my edges with the ceramic rod.
 
Balislinger said:
Could you tell me what belts/grits you use for convexing and what your process is? I've got a belt sander, but afraid to try convexing a Busse with it until I get some tips. Thanks
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Good idea. Work with about 3-6 total crap $10 knives from SMKW to get a feel for that sander. THEN realize that a Busse seems to have "softer" steel than stainless crap knives.

I went workin on a severely beaten kitchen-use (grumble grumble, wife grumble) Culti last night. After a half-hour with 400 grit and getting nowhere, I pulled out the Griz.

HOLY FLEEP! I put the 400 grit WELL USED belt on and it took off steel like it was going out of style. And I've practiced on some junk knives, so I know enough of how to use the belt sander.

The convex on those Culti's is pretty fat. I switched to a something-micron belt and polished out my mistakes and thinned it a BIT.

Frustratingly, there are some bonks on the edge. Just little places where my "put that dirty knife in the sink and let it bang around against the plates" wife flattened the edge. Plus I used it as a steak knife once - not good to use a ceramic plate to cut on. So while it's pretty sharp, it hangs up in one or two areas near the belly.

Until I sharpen it enough to take off the flat spots, they will hang. I'm in no rush for that.
 
Supposedly, one of the best ceramic rods out there is the Idahone. Another good ceramic sharpener is the one(s) made by Spyderco. Try what Spyderco calls the ProFile here is their product page: http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=95 . I like the ceramic hone I got from Handamerican. They also have a really cool glass sharpening rod. Their site hasn't been working lately. For the field , I suggest the Eze-Lap diamond rod. The handle is brass and the rod stows inside the handle. It's metal with diamonds, works great and won't break. Here's their product page: http://www.eze-lap.com/product/roundds.htmor . The DMT double sided diafold which has both a coarse and a fine diamond face is another great product. It's plastic so won't break like ceramics do. Here's their product page: http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/diafold.htm. You can get almost all of this stuff on ebay.
 
Busse needs to bring back their strop. :):):)

"THE BUSSE COMBAT "AIR BLEEDER" LEATHER STROP!

These are great for making your edge so sharp that the "Air Will Bleed" when your knife passes through it . . . .

One side is treated with a Coarse hand burnished compound and the other side is treated with a Fine hand burnished compound. The sides are marked "A" and "B"

The tension is adjustable so that it works just as well on a flat edge as it does on a convex edge.

The idea of an adjustable strop dates back to long before the 1800's and there have been many, many variations on the theme. There was a fella who made a hand-held adjustable strop back in the '80s with different materials that was very effective and served as the inspiration for this model.

Our adjustable strop is made with machined aluminum, vegetable tanned leather, and assorted American made hardware."

Strop%20Side.jpg


Strop%20Top.jpg
 
Bigfattyt said:
I have convexed all mine. All by hand using sandpaper/mousepad. I just maintain my edges on a strop. Easiest way for me by hand. I have a fixed sharpening system that has not seen the light of day for a couple years.

Just do what you know. I will say, that since I switched most of my users to convex edges they are sharper. Not becsuse convex are sharper, but because they are so easy to maintian, that I will just do a few passes per side, whenever they get used.
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Picking up a fresh knife,how long does it take you to put a convex edge on one? Couple hours or just a few minutes?
 
You may find it on the forums for sale once and awhile. Maybe skunk will get a few more in stock one day. It was made by busse and sold at the company store around Jan 2006.


d.weglarz13 said:
oh man, i want one!! does anywhere sell this strop?
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Interesting. I would like to obtain one as well. Anyone with more info, please post away! Thanks for posting clone7!
 
yea, that thing is cool. anyone know a link that shows how to make one? it looks very easy, i think ill try it. thanks again.
 
The Busse strop is basically a loom strop which is available in a range of prices and qualities. I find it useful for maintaining all edges. :thumbup:
 
I am new to BUSSE I recent got an AMS from my brother. I have never been a good sharpener. I am ok. Not great. Years and years ago when I started getting into more expensive knives I stopped sharpening them myself and begin sending them back to the manufacturer for sharpening. I am however going to be a proud owner of the wicked edge sharpening system sometime in the future. my question is this I am familiar with stripping infi on porcelain and leather. Would that be an acceptable way to maintain the edge for a long period of time? I should add I am a user.
 
Horn Dog said:
They used to cost $0.99 each at Smoky Mountain. They are $1.99 now. Just a simple ceramic rod with a wooden handle. I have them all around the house. I keep one in the kitchen to touch up those knives, too. You can see pictures at http://www.eknifeworks.com Look under sharpening and accessories.

They have several models. I have used them for years. When they get slick and loaded up, I just scrub them with Comet cleanser and they work like new again. For big jobs like convexing or reprofiling an edge, I use a Kalamazoo 1" x 42" belt sander.
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That is the sticks I get. They work great. I hardly ever have to resharpen any knife as long as I keep it touched up on one of the sticks.
 
For big/thick knives I've found that convexing them on a KO WorkSharp to be about the fastest and nicest out there. Takes all/most of the guesswork out of it..
 
I was just looking at a Worksharp. Wondering if they are really worth the price tag. I was checking out the Ken Onion edition and by the time you get a few attachments and belts.....you're looking at near $300. Almost by a decent belt grinder for that.
 
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