Sharpen a Busse

I am REALLY new to Busse knives, but have used and sharpened 2, a SHSH in infi and an NFMSH. I have only stropped them on a Flex Strop Rudis Paddle I got from usamadeblade.com. These knives were SUPER easy in acquiring a SUPER sharp edge. I mean SUPER sharp! At this point, I have very limited use in the woods, but they'll get t through workout very soon. Anyway, my point is, I have a fair amount of experience sharpening knives and maintaining their edges; I own and cook in a restaurant. I have never found a steel so easy to sharpen as infi. This stuff seems completely amazing! When I have wanted to "convex" an edge, I have used wet/dry sandpaper, wet, on a firm closed cell foam pad, then moved to the Flex Strop with grey then green compound. If you google this, there are plenty of videos on this method.

-Will
 
Gravelface said:
I was just looking at a Worksharp. Wondering if they are really worth the price tag. I was checking out the Ken Onion edition and by the time you get a few attachments and belts.....you're looking at near $300. Almost by a decent belt grinder for that.
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I've had mine for a while now and other than a couple of belts I have the base system and have been pretty happy with it. It can't really be beat for large knives. I was looking at the Wicked Edge there for a while too but for the money my EdgePro does everything that it does although I finish all my knives in a fairly low grit and then microbevel on my Sharpmaker Ultra Fine stones.
 
Has anybody seeing a video on using the KO work sharp to sharpen a convex edge? I use the KME for regular sharpening and although I am limited with the 11" maximum and can not do my 1311. I think it works very well. Of course I can not use with a convex so I was looking at the KO work sharp but see nothing of how to use it for that purpose
 
Once you have the proper edge on a busse, all it takes to maintain it is slight strop. Here is what I carry with me which usually does the trick. I get mouse pads and cut them in half. Then I glue a piece of 1000 grit on it. You can even cut them into quarters for better packing. I then draw the blade spine first across the pad using light pressure. The pad gives enough to aid in maintaining a convex edge. It also removes very little steel and keeps the edge very sharp. I actually think that the old assymetrical edge Jerry created on the original line might just be the best edge I have ever seen on a knife. Pure genius and I am sure it came to him in a drunken stupor. The edge was 1/4 inch on the convex side and less on the straight side. The hardest part was learning how to maintain it and probably why he went away from it. He did send instructions on how to do it, but I lost them. That edge was both tough and razor sharp.
 
I think the Mean Street has an asymmetrical edge. Please correct me I I am wrong. The edge is wider on one side then the other. I am New to BUSSE
 
I want it for a bit of "experimenting". Also, dropped my Southard and destroyed the tip. I've never had an issue with getting them "work" sharp, but also never been able to get them shaving sharp.
 
You should try to polish your edge after sharpening, i was a very bad sharpener for years, but with some micromesh on a rubber (eraser? gum? my english is not good) and moving it on the edge, i was able to get a mirror finish shaving sharp edge, very fast and with no technique.
 
Gravelface said:
I want it for a bit of "experimenting". Also, dropped my Southard and destroyed the tip. I've never had an issue with getting them "work" sharp, but also never been able to get them shaving sharp.
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My 400 - 600 grit working edge from my EdgePro will shave hair no problem. Even before the microbevel. And I'm lazy.. I only go up to 400 - 600 on my EdgePro because it's too much of a hassle to change out stones and then re-calibrate it for a different thickness stone but since it's easy to switch belts out on the KOWS I do go up to around 2000 on that.
 
I have the Worksharp KO edition and I have the Wicked Edge Field and Sport Pro (waiting to get additional stones and strips). I'll share a few points about each:

The Worksharp KO Edition
The Good:
1. It has great belts that work very well
2. It has variable speeds
3. It has the ability to reprofile very quickly
4. It's easily transportable
5. It can accommodate a wide variety of edge angles
6. It can effectively produce a mirror polished edge very quickly
7. Attachments are available and allow for a variety of different steel edges (chisels, axes, scissors, knives, hooks, straight razors, etc.)
8. Cost is around 150 for sharpener and 2 packs of belts

The Bad:
1. Cost (although this is relative)
2. Belts wear out faster than I'd like
3. Belts are not sold individually, so you have to buy the pack
4. THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM: the angle guides MOVE!! Meaning when you apply lateral force/pressure against the guide -- the guide moves and therefore changes angles. The original Worksharp did NOT have this problem.
5. In my experience, thicker knives -- especially ones with coating -- do not easily get sharpened at 20 degrees or less.
6. Steel can sometimes be removed too quickly
7. If you're not careful (even with the KO edition) tips can be rounded off

The Wicked Edge Field & Sport Pro
The Good:
1. Transportable
2. Works pretty much anywhere and everywhere
3. The level of precision is unrivaled
4. With the accessory stones and strops there is nothing out there (including paper wheels) that can get your knife super sharp and precise.
5. Once the measurements are learned the sharpening process becomes essentially the exact same every time you sharpen.
6. The diamond stones cut steel fast and they last a really long time
7. This is what you want to use on super expensive knives. Truly perfect edges are fairly easily achievable.

The Bad:
1. It's freaking expensive
2. There's a learning curve
3. There's inherent safety issues/dangers with the knife edge facing up
4. Re profiling can take too long if the angle change is too drastic
5. Different knife blade designs require slightly different techniques that need to be learned
6. Diamond particles can scratch the surface they fall on (e.g glass, wood, etc.)

They each have their perks -- but if we're comparing both -- the wicked edge is clearly dominant in the end result that is produced. Hope this helps!

-Rob Abyane
 
Rob_Mob said:
I have the Worksharp KO edition and I have the Wicked Edge Field and Sport Pro (waiting to get additional stones and strips). I'll share a few points about each:

The Worksharp KO Edition
The Good:
1. It has great belts that work very well
2. It has variable speeds
3. It has the ability to reprofile very quickly
4. It's easily transportable
5. It can accommodate a wide variety of edge angles
6. It can effectively produce a mirror polished edge very quickly
7. Attachments are available and allow for a variety of different steel edges (chisels, axes, scissors, knives, hooks, straight razors, etc.)
8. Cost is around 150 for sharpener and 2 packs of belts

The Bad:
1. Cost (although this is relative)
2. Belts wear out faster than I'd like
3. Belts are not sold individually, so you have to buy the pack
4. THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM: the angle guides MOVE!! Meaning when you apply lateral force/pressure against the guide -- the guide moves and therefore changes angles. The original Worksharp did NOT have this problem.
5. In my experience, thicker knives -- especially ones with coating -- do not easily get sharpened at 20 degrees or less.
6. Steel can sometimes be removed too quickly
7. If you're not careful (even with the KO edition) tips can be rounded off

The Wicked Edge Field & Sport Pro
The Good:
1. Transportable
2. Works pretty much anywhere and everywhere
3. The level of precision is unrivaled
4. With the accessory stones and strops there is nothing out there (including paper wheels) that can get your knife super sharp and precise.
5. Once the measurements are learned the sharpening process becomes essentially the exact same every time you sharpen.
6. The diamond stones cut steel fast and they last a really long time
7. This is what you want to use on super expensive knives. Truly perfect edges are fairly easily achievable.

The Bad:
1. It's freaking expensive
2. There's a learning curve
3. There's inherent safety issues/dangers with the knife edge facing up
4. Re profiling can take too long if the angle change is too drastic
5. Different knife blade designs require slightly different techniques that need to be learned
6. Diamond particles can scratch the surface they fall on (e.g glass, wood, etc.)

They each have their perks -- but if we're comparing both -- the wicked edge is clearly dominant in the end result that is produced. Hope this helps!

-Rob Abyane
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Thanks rob through as usual. Have you done convex edges with the KO? I know you need the attachment for it. I like cobalt idea and post as well. I think I will try that with a cheap knife first haha
 
rickshooter said:
Thanks rob through as usual. Have you done convex edges with the KO? I know you need the attachment for it. I like cobalt idea and post as well. I think I will try that with a cheap knife first haha
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The KOWS only does convex edges unless you have some attachment that would sit behind the belts..
 
rickshooter said:
Thanks rob through as usual. Have you done convex edges with the KO? I know you need the attachment for it. I like cobalt idea and post as well. I think I will try that with a cheap knife first haha
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No problem! Actually all knives sharpened on the original Worksharp and the KO edition get a convex edge. The reason for this is that when the knife edge comes in contact with the belt-- the belt gives a little and as a result the the belt creates a convex edge. The concept is similar to stropping and similar to using the sandpaper mousepad technique -- which creates a slightly convex edge.
 
Gravelface said:
I was just looking at a Worksharp. Wondering if they are really worth the price tag. I was checking out the Ken Onion edition and by the time you get a few attachments and belts.....you're looking at near $300. Almost by a decent belt grinder for that.
Click to expand...

I bought one and really did not like it. I felt like there was not enough control. I sold it to a wood carver. I use a simple Sears craftsman belt sander and belts from jantz. Then strop with black than green compound. That is only after damaged or if the edge is not quite as sharp as I want . After that I usually only have to strop.
 
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I have the KO Worksharp and the original. Most of what Rob says is true but I tend to disagree on a few points,

Belts, yes you do have to buy the originals in packs mostly (I think though you can get them individually direct from WS), I buy micromesh belts for mine is larger lots (as there is a minimum out here) but in the US this should be easier.

The moving guides take some getting use to but I actually find it an improvement over the fixed guides as it lets me know when I am pressing out too far (you can tighten them up if you wish but you need to loosen them again to change angles).

I had no trouble with my thicker blades Rob, did a .32 ASH that is a bloody big razor now... ;)
 
I have the original Worksharp and seem to do better without the guides. Before that I had always used my oil stones, and still do on small knives. Rob ain't kidding about rounding tips though. Don't down a few beers and put your Fremont Jack across it (I did, to my dismay). Sheep's foot and Wharncliffe blades need stones - at least if I'm doing the sharpening.
 
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Andy the Aussie said:
I have the KO Worksharp and the original. Most of what Rob says is true but I tend to disagree on a few points,

Belts, yes you do have to buy the originals in packs mostly (I think though you can get them individually direct from WS), I buy micromesh belts for mine is larger lots (as there is a minimum out here) but in the US this should be easier.

The moving guides take some getting use to but I actually find it an improvement over the fixed guides as it lets me know when I am pressing out too far (you can tighten them up if you wish but you need to loosen them again to change angles).

I had no trouble with my thicker blades Rob, did a .32 ASH that is a bloody big razor now... ;)
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Andy!!!! I want to believe brother I want to believe. Show me the way. Make a video and be my hero! :)
 
So is the WS just a tip eater? Or with a bit of care, could be overcame?

And I appreciate all the input!!!
 
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