Sharpening equipment question

[nhyrum]

I'm not even sure it's an "oil stone" how do I tell the difference between a water and oil stone?

Also, it's a 10 dollar combination stone, I'm not THAT strapped for cash. I'll just keep it as a lesson/souvineer

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[bucketstove]

I'm not even sure it's an "oil stone" how do I tell the difference between a water and oil stone?

Also, it's a 10 dollar combination stone, I'm not THAT strapped for cash. I'll just keep it as a lesson/souvineer

Hi,
If its stone from ACE hardware, and its not diamonds, its an oil stone.

hardware stores mostly carry oil stones. even some asian grocery stores carry "oil" stones (hancook, lion)

another way to tell usually, oil or water is mentioned on box somewhere, maybe a "soak" time.
if neither oil nor water is mentioned on box, its probably oil stone.

another is to test/use the stone,
if it does not release copious amounts of grit, then there is benefit to using oil,
if it releases slurry really easily (low psi) if its making mud as soon as you look at it,
then there is low/no benefit to using oil as a lubricant, even if its sold/marked for use with oil.
see for example norton economy review,


all stones require a little maintenance, some before they're even used,
but the ace hardware stone is reportedly flat and will float oil right out of the box,
so it is a "quality" stone,
just scratch with nail

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

"...but the ace hardware stone is reportedly flat and will float oil right out of the box,
so it is a "quality" stone,

On that point, the ACE stones are pretty good quality. However, they don't float oil when new, but instead suck up oil like a dry sponge, quite literally. They clearly aren't pre-loaded with oil, but are instead dry when new. I have at least 5 or 6 of ACE's current line of stones, in varying sizes and in both SiC and AlOx, and I still 'feed' them with more oil every time I use them. On one of mine, a 4" AlOx stone, I'm beginning to see it's appetite for more oil is slowing down a bit now. And I keep one 3" pocket SiC stone permanently submerged in mineral oil in a jar, so that one's always sufficiently lubricated. But the others are still very thirsty.


David

 

[HeavyHanded]

Yeah, this ace stone I got is making me for sure take a step back and get quality stones

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The Ace stone is a very good representation of the breed, it just has to be used with a bit of care. They all come a little glazed from the factory when they are trued up after being baked, especially the coarse side. Just use it. It can be scuffed up with a hacksaw blade, old file etc, use oil.

 

[scott.livesey]

I'm just the kind of guy that likes to be able to do things the stone age way first. Learned gas welding first, then the newer, better, etc ways. Learn to drive on a stick before automatic, I guess doing things that way forces you to learn what's really going on and understand it in practice.

I want to learn to sharpen on a stone, freehand, then I'll get a sharp maker, edge pro or wicked edge sharpening system

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hi, i would suggest two items for getting started. first would be a Norton coarse/fine 8"x 2" stone like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-Pike...983711?hash=item1c6a63675f:g:JDoAAOSwanRXhXEh. i use this with light mineral oil to do edge repair and setting the edge angle. once the edge angle is set and all damage is cleaned up, i go to this http://www.harborfreight.com/4-sided-diamond-hone-block-92867.html i bought one on sale and have been very happy with the results. i use it dry with very light pressure and wash it in soap and water after use. i find an edge finished to 600grit does everything i need done in the kitchen. i have taken the edges down to 3000grit, but saw no increase in performance.
finally, go to a thrift store or good hardware store and pick up an Old Hickory knife to practice on. Old Hickory knives are 1095 at Rc55-57, easy to sharpen, and a great way to get your skills down.
scott