Sharpening Kuks

Well that would certainly explain my oversized large hat size I expect. Another one of life's mysteries solved today.

Many say my purpose in life is to set a bad example, makes some sense I guess, I'm good at it.
 
I keep all my kuks, axes, tomahawks, everything razor sharp. Just like my knives. I use them all hard. On stuff they should cut of course. I like to use sand paper mostly. But use ceramics, diamond steels, stones, files, I even strop sometimes, just about everything there is to sharpen with I probably used. I feel the tightest I can get the metal, the better the blade cuts and slides into the wood or whatever is getting cut with the least friction . Just like a polished finish is easier to maintain than villager/ unfinished steel. When the steel is completely finished, oxidation or stains have a harder time getting in. My two cents. Dang I'm tired
 
sawgrass said:
Yes, I did read that the HR was different at different parts of the blade, including a very soft spine to keep from breaking. I am using about a 32% bevel and yes a convex blade will not ever get as sharp. A convex blade is always a better, more controlled chopping blade and so a kuk needs to be convex. I guess I just prefer a blade that will shave my arm and I cont get it to that point. I think it is possible to do that, but maybe a person needs to be more skilled than I. Thanks for all of your input, it is great.
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Don't sell convex edges short. Some of the all time sharpest edges I have ever felt, used, or made, have been convex. Convex edges can whittle long curly, multiple curls on a free hanging hair. Convex edges will, can and do get as sharp as any v-edge you can dream of.

You can get a khukri edge as shaving sharp as you want.

The softer steel can be hard to get sharp, and add the recurve on the edge and it gets more complicated.

I have used a thin sandpaper, strop combo, belt sander, thin diamond stone, and ceramic stick all to great effect.
 
Sawgrass,
The spyderco sharp maker sticks work great. I think any of the cross crock stick sharpeners would work. The large Smith's sharpeners with the cross ceramic sticks work also.
I don't want to tell you something you already know. So cuss me if I do. With the mousepad, phone book, be careful that you don't apply pressure past the point that you see the pad rise above the blade edge when you pass the blade across the sandpaper or the edge will continue to slightly round on each side and you won't achieve exact angle connect.
 
leebrewer said:
I keep all my kuks, axes, tomahawks, everything razor sharp. Just like my knives. I use them all hard. On stuff they should cut of course. I like to use sand paper mostly. But use ceramics, diamond steels, stones, files, I even strop sometimes, just about everything there is to sharpen with I probably used. I feel the tightest I can get the metal, the better the blade cuts and slides into the wood or whatever is getting cut with the least friction . Just like a polished finish is easier to maintain than villager/ unfinished steel. When the steel is completely finished, oxidation or stains have a harder time getting in. My two cents. Dang I'm tired
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I need to get into tomahawks.
 
interesting video of the UK guy (a brommy?) sharpening his kyoory recurved knife, which appears to be a machine made mass produced khukuri like-object (KLO) rather than a real khukuri. :)

i noted he only seemed to sharpen the tip area, and also only shaved with the tip, rather than sharpening the sweet spot area further back on the belly where he should be contacting with.
 
Most of the blade can be used, and can be sharpened., from the tip to the beginning of the valley. At that point, it is too soft to take an edge.
 
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One of the cheapest and best investments for honing a blade, a strop and honing compound,
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The honing compound makes a difference, and will last for a long time.

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Dobe_1 said:
Most of the blade can be used, and can be sharpened., from the tip to the beginning of the valley. At that point, it is too soft to take an edge.
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Not true. I have yet to receive a blade that was not fully sharpened or not been able to sharpen the entire edge.
 
If you can sharpen the valley of the recurve, take a video of it, and post it.

The steel is too soft in this region, next to the cho, and for a reason no doubt. See the area below.
And of course the definition of sharp may need to be defined.

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Dobe_1 said:
If you can sharpen the valley of the recurve, take a video of it, and post it.

The steel is too soft in this region, next to the cho, and for a reason no doubt. See the area below.
And of course the definition of sharp may need to be defined.
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I can sharpen there. No I'm not going to make a video.
If it came sharp, it can be resharpened. If you can't, try a different technique.
 
Karda said:
I can sharpen there. No I'm not going to make a video.
If it came sharp, it can be resharpened. If you can't, try a different technique.
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I have sharpened there. Use that area for stick feathering. I just use the chakma, and if needed, a ceramic rod.
 
Karda said:
Its part of my job here, aside from having to bonk Bawanna on the noggin once in a blue moon. ;) :D
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Well, lets try and keep you busy then =)

... I seem to remember reading somewhere Uncle Bill talking about the 'magic stones' - among other points being some comments about the elements involved re. stropping step ... any idea what thread I might be remembering from? (yeah, I'll try searching too... =)

Cheers, Max
 
the 'valley' when sharpened makes a dandy draw knife. it may not be as hard as the sweet spot which is harder by design to take the impact of chopping chores the tip and 'valley' are not. the tip is softer justincase you miss the target & hit the ground or a rock with the tip, so it doesn't snap off. but it is still sharpened and useful, as is the valley. all my khuks, historic and HI are sharp tip to cho.

i re-sharpen with a 10" oval diamond covered 'steel' and a mouse pad with emery cloth to finish. i'll go to 2000 grit if i feel like it. if i'm in the mood i have some 3m polishing papers that go to 6000.
 
I like to use the Sharpmaker rods in a pinch, but sandpaper works great too. My dad and I make jewelry as a hobby, so there's a bit of 15, 3, and 1-micron diamond paper lying around. Who's seen a mirrored khuk egde before? It cuts like a lightsaber :D

When I sharpen my khukuris, my goal is not to treat the edge like a normal bevel, but rather treat the whole last bevel as the egde, if that makes sense. With gentle pressure, it's relatively easy to achieve a convex zero grind, which to me is the best balance between v and convex. No angles to add friction, but the edge is at a significantly steeper degree than the rest of the bevel. Sometimes on a full-sized blade that will get a lot of use, I'll do a microbevel on the sweet spot, and leave tip and recurve without. It's tricky to explain, but it gets the blade hair-shaving sharp and it holds an edge very well.

And to back up others, my knives are also sharp tip to cho. The recurve area is actually easiest to sharpen in my opinion. It's just softer steel, that means it takes an edge easily but doesn't hold it as well. I achieve shaving-sharp everywhere but the tip, because that doesn't need it to me, so I'd say check your technique
 
No need to go for a round sharpening stone. Even flat sharpening stones of 1/2 inch width are able to follow Kukri curves. I do it at 4 different angles to achieve what's effectively convex. Works better for me than free handing on mouse pads. Maybe with more training and developing a better feeling I'll do mouse pads in the future.

All my Kukris shave. Some came shaving sharp from auntie and some needed a bit more polishing.
Just make sure you maintain the angle the Kamis put on it and don't thin out the edge. Once too thin it might roll or chip more easily.

What's also cool even after chopping hard wood some Kukris still continue to shave. The heavier ones seem to be better that way, but that may be just me.
 
I cheat. I use a one inch belt sander. :D To get a new kukri razor sharp I pass it over 120 grade one or two times each side, followed by 240, 400, 600, 800, 2000, 2500 once each side and then a leather strop, but I have also had some kukri models come razor sharp eg. the Tamang. I am ever so careful to do this reasonably lightly and by changing paper all the time I never allow the blade to get hot. I have no idea if this is the correct way of doing it but I end up with a razor sharp convex edge that seems fairly durable. I have to admit though that I only seek a razor sharp kukri when it is going to see use in the kitchen.
 
Dobe by the color of your strop I guess you are using Green, aren't you?
 
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