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Sharpening Kuks
- Thread starter sawgrass
- Start date
Yeah, green. It works well
I do have a high standard for the word sharp. Out of the 17 or so HI blades I have purchased, only one model has consistent hardness to the cho. That is the KLVUK. I have had 3 of those. I gave two as gifts. I have sharpened all three. Since the blades are generally only around 16-18oz., I don't see the hardness extending to the cho as a problem.
On larger Kuks:
I too have used the valley during a draw knife cut. It will cut, but this area was not intended to take a keen edge nor will it hold one. If you actually hone the edge, you will notice the difference just beyond the valley. This is where the edge hardens enough to form and hold a keen edge. Even if you rough sharpen, you should notice a difference.
The valley will cut, but by design, it's softer. I've worked the valley before on many of my Kuks. For the most part, I'll give it a pass or two with India or slip stone.
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snowwolf
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Hey Dobe, do you include HI knives in that statement?
(I thought knives had a consistent hardness across the whole blade edge.)
Only HI knives in the above statement, although I'm not suggesting others don't do the same. I believe, but can't confirm at this time that Bill Bagwell build his heavy Bowie in the same fashion. The cho is a bending point for a heavy blade when its under heavy stress. This is why this area is made softer.
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snowwolf
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Maybe I didn't spell it right. By knives I mean straight knife like look as opposed as recurve Kukri shapes.
Knives such as Kumar Karda and Bowies as examples don't have consistent hardness?
The Karda that I have are consistent in hardness, and I've sharpened most that have come with my HI Kuks.
I have a Pen Knife and a Kumar BDC, which are recurve also, and both have a soft cho.
I have seen pictures of, but have never seen nor held a Kumar Karda. This is a kitchen knife, isn't it? I'd love to own one. Also, I don't own any HI straight blades other than the kardas, which come with my HI Kuks.
I'm hoping that no one takes what I'm saying as a criticism of the blade design. In fact, it's very much a design attribute for a blade, which will be used heavily.
Years ago, steel consistency was not always the case. Making flex areas for a hard use utility knife was a smart thing. I like it on my Kuks, because I simply use my equipment hard, even to the point of abuse. If I tear it up, Yangdu will never get an email asking her for a refund or exchange.
You should see what I have done to some of my Randall's. Gary has told me that he would not warrant his knives for the way I use them. Yet, they hold up. When a knife doesn't, my search continues.
I have a Pen Knife and a Kumar BDC, which are recurve also, and both have a soft cho.
I have seen pictures of, but have never seen nor held a Kumar Karda. This is a kitchen knife, isn't it? I'd love to own one. Also, I don't own any HI straight blades other than the kardas, which come with my HI Kuks.
I'm hoping that no one takes what I'm saying as a criticism of the blade design. In fact, it's very much a design attribute for a blade, which will be used heavily.
Years ago, steel consistency was not always the case. Making flex areas for a hard use utility knife was a smart thing. I like it on my Kuks, because I simply use my equipment hard, even to the point of abuse. If I tear it up, Yangdu will never get an email asking her for a refund or exchange.
You should see what I have done to some of my Randall's. Gary has told me that he would not warrant his knives for the way I use them. Yet, they hold up. When a knife doesn't, my search continues.
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snowwolf
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The KK are fairly thick - more camp knife than Kitchen.
snowwolf
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No worries with me - I didn't see that as criticism.
You are bringing another angle. All HI blades are deferentially heat treated. That I know (Spine softer than edge).
I also know the HI Kukri style has (simplistic - not accurate) soft tip, hard belly, soft valley.
But what I was wondering is if the relatively straight edge designs (such as KK, KVM-1, Cherokee Rose, Bowies, swords, etc...) had even hardness across the whole edge.
Sorry my friend, I have no experience in this area. I'll make a guess. Kamis are people too, and we all perform task based upon training and culture. If the straight blades are a new design, there is a good chance that the manufacturing techniques are simply carried over.
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Yes they do. The kamis know their craft. They aren't just khukuri makers after all, but blacksmiths who usually make a myriad of items for their village.
Large Kumar Karda vs Chef
First of all, nice blade. Next, here is a simple test. Simply sharpen it. I can see the face of the blade from the picture, but not the edge. The hardness is consistent, if the edge can be sharpened consistently from tip to the ricasso while using the same pressure. You can use a small bastard file, and check for differential hardness this way also. Yet, it will alway come down to whether or not a piece of steel will take an edge (being hard enough to allow for the construction of the edge). Holding or maintaining the edge is next, but first you have to build it. I have dealt with blades that were too soft to ever take an edge. There's not much you can do with those.
If, with the same pressure, you can get the working part of the edge to cut through copy paper, this will be your starting point. The working part is generally where the knife is most useful to the owner. It's almost always behind the tip, and would be an area most likely used when cutting or chopping. If that area will not take an edge, there is a problem. Once this part of the blade will slice through copy paper, keep working until the lower part will slice through copy paper up to the ricasso. I suggested copy paper, because that is one of the easiest papers to cut through. It isn't a real test for a honed blade, but it's a starting point. Once you sharpen toward the back of the edge, assuming you maintain the correct form and pressure, you will notice the edge forming or not. This will tell you where, if any, soft spots are along the edge.
The above is assuming steel consistency in both content and thickness. Obviously an edge which becomes thicker toward the ricasso will be more difficult to take an edge.
Hope this helps. I'm sure you have a fine blade there. Let me know.
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snowwolf
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Thanks Karda - Sorry if I implied they didn't know their craft. By no means it was my intention.
You didn't. No apologies necessary.
snowwolf
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You got me curious when you mentioned the KLVUK were the only one you've seen with even hardness across the edge. Karda clarified that in his reply - straight edge are even hardness.
I can tell it just by the sound and the feel when sharpening with a stone or a sharpening steel. It's just that my level of confidence was not 100% and started to doubt myself.
If you can feel the difference when you sharpen with different pressure and different angles, you have the ability with time and practice to hone a fine long lasting edge. If you are worried about what you will do to a treasured blade, go out and buy a decent K-Bar knife. I say decent, because if you buy a knock-off, the steel will be so poor that you will be wasting your time trying to learn how to hone.
Learn off of the K-Bar. Then transfer your skill set to your more treasured blades.
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I have a Kumar Karda that is kept in the kitchen and gets all it's use there. Been couple weeks since I touched the edge, but I do believe it is consistent hardness tip to handle (there's no cho). It's a great kitchen knife, but I'm still eagerly awaiting my customs 