Sharpening S30V blade

Thanks for the info Ben. I looked on chef knives to go, but the only item I found was a double sided coarse/extra coarse plate. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/dmt2x6diplfo.html is the link. Would this work? And would I need to mount it to a blank? The video says it will fit, but I question how well it would hold it. Also, if I were to mount it on a blank, I'd be losing the extra coarse side. I kind of hate to do that, but I may have no choice. Also, I noticed that was about the same price as the single sided coarse plate from the DMT website. http://www.dmtonlinestore.com/6-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond-Bench-Stone-P16C26.aspx

Otherwise I'm looking to get the EP apex as Jens and yourself suggested with the setup you outlined. I just wanted to find out what I should do about the above issue before I got to ordering everything. I've heard it's best to buy the EP direct from their website, so that's what I'm planning. Thanks again.


The chefknives to go website is hard to navigate if you aren't familiar with it.

They have a single sided 2X6 DMT mounted to an EP blank on, I believe, the EP page. If you have a problem finding it, call them on the telephone. That's the easiest way to go.
 
Per the linked article posted by Martin ( :thumbup: ), it sounds like Phil Wilson likes coarser edges on the blades he does. At that 'toothy' level of finish, there likely won't be much shaping/refining of individual carbides going on anyway, but instead it'll be more about shaping the matrix overall by displacing and exposing carbides along the edge. Most of the grinding being done is in plowing away the matrix steel supporting the carbides, instead of upon the carbides themselves. Hence less of a need for a harder abrasive (diamond) to do the refining of the carbides.

He also points out that, for a diamond hone option, he likes the DMT 'Fine' as an all-around good option for steels like these. Compare it's rated grit size (25µ) to the average vanadium carbide size for CPM-S30V, which is 2-4µ (as published by Crucible). With 25µ abrasive grit, there won't be much refining of individual carbides taking place, using grit particles 6X-12X as broad as the carbides themselves.


David
 
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Remember, most of Mr. Wilson's customers are hunters who know very little about knives. Additionally, unless they've been taught the proper way to dress an animal. They cut through from the outside and dull the blade on hair. This gives the toothy edge an advantage, but makes for a ragged, "cut and tear" type of operation instead of the precise, almost surgical operation some of us prefer.

I would imagine that most of them send the knife back to Mr. Wilson when resharpening is required.

The point remains that both methods work quite well. A toothy edge is fine for the "rip and tear" hunters, and a finely polished 10,000 grit, well stropped edge is fine for the other group. I prefer the highly refined. It has never let me down.
 
Remember, most of Mr. Wilson's customers are hunters who know very little about knives. Additionally, unless they've been taught the proper way to dress an animal. They cut through from the outside and dull the blade on hair. This gives the toothy edge an advantage, but makes for a ragged, "cut and tear" type of operation instead of the precise, almost surgical operation some of us prefer.

I would imagine that most of them send the knife back to Mr. Wilson when resharpening is required.

The point remains that both methods work quite well. A toothy edge is fine for the "rip and tear" hunters, and a finely polished 10,000 grit, well stropped edge is fine for the other group. I prefer the highly refined. It has never let me down.


Ben, how many animals are you cleaning a year, and how many between touch ups to the blade?

What knife/knives are you using?
 
Hi Ben, I guess I am a rip and tear as well. I know the rules, never cut hair and cut from the inside out. I just like the feel of a good grabby edge and prefer to sharpen that way. Deer and antelope, elk are one thing but when skinning a wild pig you are cutting through the bristles that go all the way through to the inside. Funny thing is I have never gotten a knife back for sharpening. Yes surprises me as well. I admire your sharpening ability and thanks for your take on the subject. If you are who I think you are-- you sharpened a S90V blade for me one time at the Oregon show and I was amazed at the result.


Obsessed with Edges... Thanks for the credit but I have only made a few folders and none with S30V. Maybe some day but right now full up with fixed blades and fillet knives.
Phil
 
Hi Ben, I guess I am a rip and tear as well. I know the rules, never cut hair and cut from the inside out. I just like the feel of a good grabby edge and prefer to sharpen that way. Deer and antelope, elk are one thing but when skinning a wild pig you are cutting through the bristles that go all the way through to the inside. Funny thing is I have never gotten a knife back for sharpening. Yes surprises me as well. I admire your sharpening ability and thanks for your take on the subject. If you are who I think you are-- you sharpened a S90V blade for me one time at the Oregon show and I was amazed at the result.


Obsessed with Edges... Thanks for the credit but I have only made a few folders and none with S30V. Maybe some day but right now full up with fixed blades and fillet knives.
Phil

Thanks Phil, my bad. I have a nice S30V folder that's branded as 'Wilson', but not yours (obviously, now for me) as you've clarified.

Very much appreciate your input to the thread here as well. Much thanks. :thumbup:


David
 
Thanks for popping in on this topic Phil. As many here think Norton's SiC stones can't sharpen S60V or S90V. The high vanadium steels. Thanks to HeavyHands for the link on your sharpening recommendations. I'm glad you stated in this that you sharpen to the fine crystolon (230grit)and it gives a good edge which "lasts a long time". As many here think one must sharpen to a zillion grit in order to have a decent cutting edge. This is great to hear from someone of your caliber and extensive knowledge on knife sharpening to give us the real story on what works and can be done with just a two grit Norton SiC stone. Thank you so much and come back for a post more often to set us straight. DM
 
Hi Dave, I have always used the Norton stones and they do cut the high vanadium steels just fine. Silicon Carbide is harder than Vanadium carbide so seems logical to me. I do like the diamonds as well. I have a EZ lap diamond bench stone that is about 600 grit and it works very nice as well. I have to credit Wayne Goddard with helping me figure out knife blade sharpening. good to hear from you. Phil
 
But is it ?

At least not according to this chart:

http://www.tedpella.com/material_html/charts.htm

Silicon Carbide 2480 Knoop
Vanadium Carbide 2660 Knoop

There's the rub. Put another way, Crucible has listed vanadium carbides at anywhere between 80-85 HRC (equivalent). Not too many abrasives will be hard enough to grind them (specifically), besides diamond and similar (CBN). The main reason users can get away with grinding steels with high vanadium carbide content, using SiC or similar (AlOx, etc.), is that the grinding usually is done at a grit size that's much coarser, and is therefore plowing away matrix steel (supporting the carbides) at much lower hardness (50s-60s HRC) than the carbides themselves. The carbides get dislodged from the edge as the supporting matrix steel gets removed, without being significantly abraded or shaped themselves. Sort of like using a softish chisel to chip away at mortar supporting stones in a wall, to knock the stones loose; the chisel would have a much harder time breaking down the rocks themselves. Hardness of the carbides becomes more of a factor as one pursues additional refinement using abrasive grit sizes closer to the size of the carbides themselves (S30V's @ 2-4µ, average). A shaving edge is at it's best when the apex width is ~0.5µ or less along it's entire length (and thin edge angle, of course). At that level, the 2-4µ carbides need to be honed down in size to get that additional refinement at the edge, and lesser abrasives usually won't quite be enough to get that done.


David
 
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But is it ?

At least not according to this chart:

http://www.tedpella.com/material_html/charts.htm

Silicon Carbide 2480 Knoop
Vanadium Carbide 2660 Knoop

There's more to it than that - IIRC Vanadium Carbide doesn't form with uniform properties of hardness and durability, this is determined by some fairly precise combinations of temp and available carbon among other factors. Their potential high end for hardness exceeds SiC, but many of the Vanadium Carbides that form will fall beneath the level of SiC and some will be in the range of high purity AlumOx. Another factor is that minerals have durability qualities that may not correspond to their Knoop or Moh's rating, enabling them, depending on how they make contact, to fracture materials they might not otherwise be able to scratch - in effect sharpening by another method.

Martin
 
I've read this before here and thought that this high hardness rating for heat treated vanadium sounded excessive. Still, I do not hold a degree in Metalurgy yet in my circles I know gents who do. So, I'll approach them. In the mean time, I thought ok, Norton's SiC and India stones should not sharpen these high vanadium steel. So, I took my Buck 110 with S30V to Norton's JUM-3 stone and low and behold with some patience it did rebevel that blade. Then I took a knife I built using S60V to Norton's fine India stone the IB-8 model. I had set the bevel on a X-coarse DMT and again low and behold after 15-20 passes this stone indeed did further refine/ sharpen this blade. So, the proofs in the pudding. When the numbers say 'NO' this is not possible yet the stone can do it. Then either the figures are too high or there are factors occurring during heat treating that cause this mineral to NOT attain as high hardness. Either way, rest assured there are folks reading stuff here and then putting it to the test to see what can happen.
Jeff Hubbard, a long term Buck Knives employee who has done considerable testing at Buck. Is noted for saying: "Data in the real world beats lab data any day." DM
 
Sounds as if some commentary is being misinterpreted to imply an argument that SiC/AlOx doesn't work at all; so I'm thinking a lot of the larger point is being missed here.

At the relatively coarse grit levels favored by many, such as with the Norton SiC and India stones (I'm betting neither of these are working to grit levels approximating the 2-4µ size of the carbides), it's more about the abrasion of the steel, and dislodging carbides, than about really refining and finely shaping individual carbides. At this somewhat coarser level, I see no argument implying that an S30V blade can't be made very sharp using SiC. At the point where one begins to polish a bevel and thin an edge to mirror or very nearly so, with very fine abrasive grit working at the sub-3µ level, that's when the vanadium carbides begin to be a much bigger obstacle.

Again, I don't see anyone arguing that SiC won't work at all, in sharpening the blade. I'm just saying it's likely doing most of the work at a level affecting the supporting steel matrix, and less refinement on the carbides themselves. If a coarser & toothy edge is preferred, like something approximating the 25µ finish of the DMT Fine, it's not as much of an issue anyway, because the grit used is too big/coarse to do much refining on the small carbides anyway, and instead is just moving them out of the way with the matrix steel being removed.

If going further to guarantee an apex that's extremely fine (sub-micron/polished) in it's entirety, then it's more of a consideration to ask if the carbides are getting in the way of the finer abrasives used (see quotes from Crucible below, regarding the significance of small carbide size vs. grindability of the steel). At this level, I'd rather use a fine abrasive that's 3X as hard as the carbides and a certainty to abrade and shape them specifically, rather than one which may be only marginally harder (if at all), and might only burnish or lightly polish carbides and do little more. All the more important, if expecting to do any refining or polishing on strops that are anything less than very hard-backed. A marginally harder abrasive on a softish strop likely won't work at all, on the carbides.

From Crucible ( http://www.crucibleservice.com/eselector/general/generalpart1.html ):
"Because the microstructural distribution of carbides in P/M steels is so fine and uniform, higher amounts of carbide-forming elements may be added. Thus, higher wear resistance may be developed, without the toughness and grindability limitations inherent in conventional steelmaking. "
and...
"This carbide segregation causes two basic problems. First, areas of high concentrations of hard carbide particles may be difficult to grind, resulting in fabrication difficulties. Second, when these segregated areas are physically elongated during rolling or forging, they result in a directionally oriented microstructure, and reduce the material toughness along the transverse direction. Vanadium levels over about 3% are high enough to cause particular grinding and toughness difficulties. For this reason, despite its benefits for wear resistance, vanadium is usually limited to about 2-1/2% max. in conventionally manufactured tool steels."

David
 
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If going further to guarantee an apex that's extremely fine (sub-micron/polished) in it's entirety, then it's more of a consideration to ask if the carbides are getting in the way of the finer abrasives used (see quotes from Crucible below, regarding the significance of small carbide size vs. grindability of the steel). At this level, I'd rather use a fine abrasive that's 3X as hard as the carbides and a certainty to abrade and shape them specifically, rather than one which may be only marginally harder (if at all), and might only burnish or lightly polish carbides and do little more. All the more important, if expecting to do any refining or polishing on strops that are anything less than very hard-backed. A marginally harder abrasive on a softish strop likely won't work at all, on the carbides.

David

David, I have often speculated whether this type of steel can actually have the carbides refined with a strop, no matter what abrasive is used. An effect can certainly been seen, but what of the carbides themselves? If they have considerably more scratch resistance at a given amount of pressure than the surrounding steel, any stropping activity is going to "attack" the steel support material at a much faster rate per pass, even if diamonds are the abrasive. It would seem to me the only reliable way to work those carbides would be with an abrasive affixed to a base that has virtually zero give such as a steel plate or vitreous stone.
It would make an interesting work-up. If one has an optically smooth surface made from this material (largest point to point deviation of .2u or less), they could etch and micrograph the carbides in the steel matrix - certainly this can and is done, with the carbides being approximated at 2-3 microns. They could then strop with diamond or CBN to a lower finish and gauge relative differences in the scratch pattern created, and how it changes as it cuts across the surface of the exposed, polished carbides. Do Vanadium Carbides even take a scratch pattern or do they simply fracture down like silicon carbide, diamonds, and so many other durable minerals?

Edit to add: I have taken micrographs of D2 and s30v after being worked with SiC, on a stone, sandpaper, and with compound over thin paper. I have observed nothing that looks remotely like 2-3u defects along the apex even when worked with relatively fine particle sizes, and the apex and surrounding surface can be worked to pretty uniform finish as well. I have noticed that in use, these steels all seem to perform better (greater longevity primarily) when left at a medium finish, leading me to speculate about the carbides fracturing under use - leaving them larger to start would have a considerable effect on this.

All speculation ^.
 
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David, I have often speculated whether this type of steel can actually have the carbides refined with a strop, no matter what abrasive is used. An effect can certainly been seen, but what of the carbides themselves? If they have considerably more scratch resistance at a given amount of pressure than the surrounding steel, any stropping activity is going to "attack" the steel support material at a much faster rate per pass, even if diamonds are the abrasive. It would seem to me the only reliable way to work those carbides would be with an abrasive affixed to a base that has virtually zero give such as a steel plate or vitreous stone.
It would make an interesting work-up. If one has an optically smooth surface made from this material (largest point to point deviation of .2u or less), they could etch and micrograph the carbides in the steel matrix - certainly this can and is done, with the carbides being approximated at 2-3 microns. They could then strop with diamond or CBN to a lower finish and gauge relative differences in the scratch pattern created, and how it changes as it cuts across the surface of the exposed, polished carbides. Do Vanadium Carbides even take a scratch pattern or do they simply fracture down like silicon carbide, diamonds, and so many other durable minerals?

Edit to add: I have taken micrographs of D2 and s30v after being worked with SiC, on a stone, sandpaper, and with compound over thin paper. I have observed nothing that looks remotely like 2-3u defects along the apex even when worked with relatively fine particle sizes, and the apex and surrounding surface can be worked to pretty uniform finish as well. I have noticed that in use, these steels all seem to perform better (greater longevity primarily) when left at a medium finish, leading me to speculate about the carbides fracturing under use - leaving them larger to start would have a considerable effect on this.

All speculation ^.

On the question of whether vanadium carbides fracture or not, my own impression has always been they don't. Or, if they do, it would take some extreme forces to make it happen. Don't think I've ever read anything mentioning vanadium carbides themselves breaking down or fracturing; always seems to come down them dislodging or tearing out in use, when 'wear' of vanadium carbide-heavy steels does occur. I suspect this is part of the basis of their reputation for extreme wear-resistance, aside from hardness alone. A lot of users here have frequently commented on the difficulty in truly polishing vanadium-rich steels like S30V; based on that, if the carbides do take a 'scratch pattern' per se, I'd assume the scratches would be very shallow anyway. There are examples posted of high mirror-finishes on S30V and other similar steels, and I'd bet most/all that were done by hand were likely done using sub-micron diamond/CBN on strops, at least in part.

Other 'hard' materials, like SiC, are also known for fracturing pretty readily under use (best example I've seen: how the abrasive quality of SiC wet/dry paper becomes effectively finer with more use, as the abrasive breaks down in size). That's another reason I'd question SiC's ability to really abrade the vanadium carbides. If both are very close in hardness, but the vanadium carbides are less prone to fracturing (maybe much less prone), I think most of the end result would be the SiC breaking down under pressure from the carbides, limiting SiC's ability to keep working at the same aggressiveness.

I agree with the idea that diamond or any other abrasive being used on the carbides, for stropping, would likely have to be very firmly rooted in an unyielding substrate, in order to be fully effective. The ~3X difference in hardness of diamond over vanadium carbide might help it work to some limited degree on a slightly softish backing, but as with using any other abrasive on a strop, the effective grit of the abrasive would be reduced by the yielding/cushioning effect of the substrate.

I do have a lot of questions (speculation also) about a lot of this, myself. But, at least in terms of the well-established hardness differences between the abrasives (diamond vs SiC/AlOx), and the apparent nearly-same hardness values established for SiC/AlOx, versus the vanadium carbides, it seems as though the diamond would ensure a more predictable result in grinding/refining the carbides themselves. I think this is what's alluded to in the remarks from Crucible about 'grinding difficulties' encountered in vanadium-heavy steels, when the grinding media has to work directly on the vanadium carbides.

And, in reading more from Crucible about the intent/goal of their CPM process, it's all about minimizing the size of the carbides from the beginning (and homogenizing their distribution), so their effect on grinding/finishing operations is mitigated anyway. This is why I also feel, like you, that S30V and similar steels can still work excellently at less-refined finishes (like DMT's 25µ 'Fine' and maybe down to the 9µ EF), in which case, the refinement of individual carbides isn't as necessary.


David
 
I'll have to look into this some more. I can't even find a reference for the proper etchant needed to reveal VC under a microscope (at least not without paying for the download). Without this there isn't much to go on.

As I imagine a lot of these abrasives taking on VC I have to wonder - a material like high purity AlumOx is extremely durable, well beyond its Knoop or Mohs rating. Is it possible for this to fracture the VC in place? Likewise, when an entire field of SiC in a vitreous bond is moving across those carbides, they present a steady march of very sharp facets, even as they break down.

All very curious. I have no doubt for finer finishes the diamond is going to become the better choice for these steels. AlumOx in the form of a ceramic block, just won't have the same abrasive potential. SiC doesn't come in a vitreous stone any finer than approx 600-800 grit, leaving diamond the last man standing for a hard fixed abrasive at finer finishes. Am still dubious about the effects of stropping, even with diamond, on the actual carbides.

From what I can gather, a lot of the difficulty (from a machining standpoint) when dealing with higher vanadium content has more to do with the grain structure and overalll toughness of the steel itself, and not working the individual carbides. I'll have to do some more reading up on this before I take any pics...
 
I hope that someone can summarize into layman's terms of hows best to put on an amazing point on our s30v in the end. It's getting very scientific which is really good but setback is not all can understand and benefit. Thank you gents and god bless. Vijay
 
Ben, how many animals are you cleaning a year, and how many between touch ups to the blade?

What knife/knives are you using?

Generally 3-4 animals per year. No touch ups needed in the field. Light stroppong after returning home.

For years, my "go to" hunting knife was a Dozier of D-2 that I polished up to almost mirror.. The last few years, I've have used Spyderco Mules in S90V and CPM M-4. I will be using the S110V ot K390 next season. The k390 made it through 4 week long camping trips last summer without touch up, so next season, I'll try it on game if I'm still able to hunt. (I'll be 70 YO in March).

Hi Ben, I guess I am a rip and tear as well. I know the rules, never cut hair and cut from the inside out. I just like the feel of a good grabby edge and prefer to sharpen that way. Deer and antelope, elk are one thing but when skinning a wild pig you are cutting through the bristles that go all the way through to the inside. Funny thing is I have never gotten a knife back for sharpening. Yes surprises me as well. I admire your sharpening ability and thanks for your take on the subject. If you are who I think you are-- you sharpened a S90V blade for me one time at the Oregon show and I was amazed at the result.


Obsessed with Edges... Thanks for the credit but I have only made a few folders and none with S30V. Maybe some day but right now full up with fixed blades and fillet knives.
Phil


Mr. Wilson, an honor to have a knife legend like you on the forum!:thumbup::):):thumbup:

I haven't hunted hogs. I was taught early on to cut from the inside, and not try to "baton" through bone. And no, I'm not Ben Dale:o

I've always admired your work greatly. I've only actually handled two of your knives, but the workmanship was on a par with Bob Loveless. If I was a few years younger.....................

Oh well! I hope I have a few more seasons. But if I don't, I've had a very good run! Several antelope, a deer or two, an elk almost every year. And even a couple of moose for good measure.:D
 
I hope that someone can summarize into layman's terms of hows best to put on an amazing point on our s30v in the end. It's getting very scientific which is really good but setback is not all can understand and benefit. Thank you gents and god bless. Vijay

Barring any technique issues that may or may not be getting in the way, if I were doing it, I'd go straight to a diamond hone in either Coarse or Fine grit. I don't know what access you have, in Malaysia, to vendors/dealers of major brands like DMT or EZE-LAP (both good brands). But if possible, a Coarse/Fine DMT hone would be my first choice. For all of the reasons I explained earlier (or at least attempted to :D ), I think that's the easiest and quickest way to repair/restore the edge on such a blade. Assuming it's genuine S30V with good heat treat from Spyderco, diamond should ensure you'll get the absolute most out of your sharpening efforts.

As I'd mentioned quite earlier in the thread, the silicon carbide sandpaper had also left me wanting for a little more, with this steel. In the short term, if that's all you have access to, you might look for something slightly coarser in grit, like 400/600. It may be that the 800 you used might not be aggressive enough to repair the edge, if it's significantly worn or blunted. More so, if the edge or tip are very thick/wide in angle, and need thinning. If used affixed or glued to a very hard backing like glass or stone, it'll work a little more aggressively to hopefully repair the wear or damage to your S30V blade.

If the thread got a little 'technically' side-tracked due to myself or any others, I apologize for that.


David
 
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