Sharpening

E

Emery E Mitchamore

Joined
Jan 16, 2021
Messages
38
I did some searching but, as I'm a relative newbie, I didn't find what I need, so here goes: After a lot of study and too many purchases, I believe I have settled on my EDC(s). Now I need to learn how to sharpen them. I'm NOT a fan of any sharpening process, so it MUST be simple and quick so that it will actually get done. That said, I do want to do what is necessary to achieve and maintain a good or very good edge on a variety of EDC-type knives. So, is that too general to deserve some recommendations? I can supply some blade-specific details but I really want a process that is broadly applicable.
 
belt sander and learn the angles ya need to keep sharp on your knives.
 
Emery E Mitchamore said:
Do you mean like the Work Sharp belt sander? I have one but have been afraid to use it on my good knives.
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wasn't thinking that. more a full size where ya have better freehand custom control. I used to use a cheapo harbor freight one for machetes and large choppers and such. super fast. good edges and easy touch ups compare to using stones and freehand.

if you want to do just quick touchups...I'd recommend the sharpmaker and using the sharpie method. very easy way and quick setup and break down.
 
With the sharpmaker, and a decent strop with some aggressive compounds (9-16 micron) you won’t have to sharpen too much. Using these once or twice a week you’ll be able to put off sharpening for a long time… that’s what I’ve been doing lately…
I have a Ken Onion worksharp I use for sharpening (also have a wicked edge, but it’s a PITA compared to the KO)…
I bought the Wicked Edge for my good knives, but the way I figure it, if I’m gonna EDC a knife for a while, it isn’t going to stay looking good for very long anyhow.
So the KO worksharp is my go-to when the strop/sharpmaker won’t do the trick
 
Powered sharpening can remove too much metal and might spoil your heat treatment. I have a top notch 2x72 but wouldn't use it for sharpening. I use a guided system with diamond stones. I just put the edge on a dagger today starting from unsharpened (no final bevel) in about 30 minutes.
 
Richard338 said:
Powered sharpening can remove too much metal and might spoil your heat treatment. I have a top notch 2x72 but wouldn't use it for sharpening. I use a guided system with diamond stones. I just put the edge on a dagger today starting from unsharpened (no final bevel) in about 30 minutes.
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slow speed down and use higher grit belts to remove a lot less material....if ya are careful and pay attention I don't see any issue using it. some factories still use belt sanders for sharpening. I know Buck does.
 
knifesteelnerds.com

Does Sharpening with a Grinder Ruin Your Edge? - Knife Steel Nerds

You have to sharpen a new knife a few times to get it cutting well. Right? Or do you? Are knife manufacturers improperly sharpening their knives?
knifesteelnerds.com knifesteelnerds.com
.

"Knife edges are easily overheated during powered grinding due to the small volume of the edge and the friction buildup from grinding. This softens the edge and worsens edge retention."
 
I think an important question to ask is- What kind of sharpening do you want to be able to do?

Are you only interested in sharpening at home? Or do you also want to be able to sharpen away from home, like on camping/hiking trips, or at work, or anywhere away from home you happen to be?

I believe in starting with the basics, because the basics can be done anywhere. I'm talking about freehand sharpening, using a hone, or hones. That's how I learned, and it's all I've ever done, both at home, and away from home. If my knife gets dull away from home, I don't want to have to wait until I get home to be able to make it sharp again, especially if I still need it.

Freehand sharpening skills may not come easy, but like anything else, if you think it's important, then it's worth practicing until you get it right.

Below is a picture of ALL of my sharpening equipment. A 4" fine DMT diamond hone, a 4" coarse DMT diamond hone, and a fine diamond file for my recurve blade. I carry the two hones in a small pouch. I like knowing that I can easily take my sharpening gear wherever I go, and that I can sharpen my knives wherever I am.

sSxKQL6.jpg
 
jbmonkey said:
slow speed down and use higher grit belts to remove a lot less material....if ya are careful and pay attention I don't see any issue using it. some factories still use belt sanders for sharpening. I know Buck does.
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Yep 👍 I was concerned about this in the past, so I felt the edge after every couple passes. It was barely warm. Low speed, and giving it a few seconds between passes, and I don’t think it will mess up the HT at all. I’ve been using my Eklipse which I sharpened on my KO worksharp and the edge has been holding up very well, especially given the thick geometry of that knife. (I went about 20° per side)
 
killgar said:
I think an important question to ask is- What kind of sharpening do you want to be able to do?

Are you only interested in sharpening at home? Or do you also want to be able to sharpen away from home, like on camping/hiking trips, or at work, or anywhere away from home you happen to be?

I believe in starting with the basics, because the basics can be done anywhere. I'm talking about freehand sharpening, using a hone, or hones. That's how I learned, and it's all I've ever done, both at home, and away from home. If my knife gets dull away from home, I don't want to have to wait until I get home to be able to make it sharp again, especially if I still need it.

Freehand sharpening skills may not come easy, but like anything else, if you think it's important, then it's worth practicing until you get it right.

Below is a picture of ALL of my sharpening equipment. A 4" fine DMT diamond hone, a 4" coarse DMT diamond hone, and a fine diamond file for my recurve blade. I carry the two hones in a small pouch. I like knowing that I can easily take my sharpening gear wherever I go, and that I can sharpen my knives wherever I am.

sSxKQL6.jpg
Click to expand...

killgar said:
I think an important question to ask is- What kind of sharpening do you want to be able to do?

Are you only interested in sharpening at home? Or do you also want to be able to sharpen away from home, like on camping/hiking trips, or at work, or anywhere away from home you happen to be?

I believe in starting with the basics, because the basics can be done anywhere. I'm talking about freehand sharpening, using a hone, or hones. That's how I learned, and it's all I've ever done, both at home, and away from home. If my knife gets dull away from home, I don't want to have to wait until I get home to be able to make it sharp again, especially if I still need it.

Freehand sharpening skills may not come easy, but like anything else, if you think it's important, then it's worth practicing until you get it right.

Below is a picture of ALL of my sharpening equipment. A 4" fine DMT diamond hone, a 4" coarse DMT diamond hone, and a fine diamond file for my recurve blade. I carry the two hones in a small pouch. I like knowing that I can easily take my sharpening gear wherever I go, and that I can sharpen my knives wherever I am.

sSxKQL6.jpg
Click to expand...

THIS!!!!!!!!!

Don't rely on gizmos, they are just a crutch that will in time cripple your ability to sharpen your knife anywhere, anytime. Its not that hard to free hand sharpen a knife, its a lot simpler than you think. The manufactures or the gizmos want you to think its complicated, so you will waste money and time on their overpriced and over engineered gizmos.
 
I want to learn to sharpen free hand but have yet to attend youtube university. What’s the trick to find the bevel and then keep it while sharpening?
 
I suggest you get a knife you don't mind damaging and learn to freehand sharpen. Here's a basic how-to video from a YouTube channel with worthwhile knife content:


As Killgar said, it doesn't have to be a complicated process once you figure it out, and there is no one "perfect" way to do it. As long as the knife cuts how you want and doesn't get too weak then you'll be doing fine.
 
Get a few DMT diamond stones, XC, C, F. And a fine ceramic, like a spyderco fine stone to finish and touch up. That’ll handle almost anything.

And then take the advice above, and ruin a few cheap kitchen knives learning how to use the stones. If you want it to be quick and easy, you need to spend several hours learning the skill until it gets easy through practice. There is no way out but through.
 
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