Sharpening

TheOne45 said:
I didn't understand... experience about what?
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Microscopic carbides effecting a hone on straightening the edge.

Hone straightens. A strop micro sharpens the edge. If the edge is rounded over. The rounded edge will dig into a strop.

It's hone and then strop. But if the edge is straighten back by the hone. It's sharp enough. There's no reason to strop. Unless you want to polish the straighten edge for an extra sharp situation.
 
I took my White River back to the Worksharp precision and tried the “scrubbing motion” back and forth with minimal pressure with the stones. Tried to keep a uniform scratch pattern and remove the burr in between each grit. Burr removal is still hard for me but after I got to 600 I stripped it. Very sharp now and didn’t roll when I hit the edge against the countertop.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
It's hone and then strop. But if the edge is straighten back by the hone. It's sharp enough.
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Edge full of carbides does not bend like plain carbon steel edge. If you bend the edge from one to other side it will get micro cracks. This will weaken the edge and you can't repair all this damage with strop.
But what do I know. I'm so to speak just a tiny chicken who just found the way through the egg shell and all of you are rusters with 20, 30, 40 or more years of sharpening experiences.
 
TheOne45 said:
Edge full of carbides does not bend like plain carbon steel edge. If you bend the edge from one to other side it will get micro cracks. This will weaken the edge and you can't repair all this damage with strop.
But what do I know. I'm so to speak just a tiny chicken who just found the way through the egg shell and all of you are rusters with 20, 30, 40 or more years of sharpening experiences.
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Ok.
 
I would say some of those common sharpening methods used for carbon steels knives does not go well with modern steels full of carbides. Modern steels does not behave exactly the same.
They know this at Spyderco so they sharpen modern steels different way.
 
Spyderco is a pain to sharpen. The way they complete the edge at the heel. Gives it an upside down smile. Preventing the very rear of the edge from having a stress point.

Sharpen that curve out. Running the edge up against the ricasso. Creates a stress point. With most people not wanting a choil added, that'll fix that.

The only thing that will properly sharpen a Spyderco, while keeping the factory designed edge. Is their Spyderco system.
 
Yes, somehow recurved edge. If the knife does not have a choil I just make it.
But I was talking about the edge on micro level-how they expose the carbides from steel matrix without doing damage (cracks).
 
Grasshopperglock said:
Microscopic carbides effecting a hone on straightening the edge.
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I don't think carbides are affecting a hone.

Here is a thing I don't understand. What is 'straightening the edge'? Are there any photos you can point me to? I would like to see, how the edge looks like before and after straightening to better understand this process. Do you 'straighten the edge' before sharpening or after sharpening?

What works best to straighten the edge? Ribbed butcher steel, polished steel, ceramic rod or something else?
 
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I touched up my LC200N salt knife and notified that one side took some time to raise a burr and when I flipped it and removed the burr that side took way less time to form a burr. Is that common?
 
Yes.

Once you've reached a rough apex on one side. It takes less time on the second side. But you have to watch and make sure you're not removing more on one side then the other.

I sharpen down to where I haven't reached the apex. Then I flip the knife. Do that side. Flip it back over. Flip. Slowly as it goes. Burr.

I try to form the apex equally by sharpening both sides about the same amount. Working my way down to the edge. 240grit.

At 400, I'm basically refining the edge.
 
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