Sharpening

Depending on the steel and the geometry, you could strop on your denim jeans, or cardboard, or your palm if you had nothing else. (Admittedly, this would probably require two palms, which perhaps it’s presumptuous of me to assume you have.)

Or, if your preference runs to burnishing, you might use a screwdriver shank, the edge of your car window, or the barrel of a nearby .22 rifle.

Lots of options for finishing (deburring) a 600 grit edge. Some people finish on 600 with a few light strokes and call it good.

Parker
 
I deburr using a Jenga game block. But my Jenga pieces are the knock off painted ones.

I remove the paint on the end across a sanding belt. Get it bare wood, end grain.

Some steels will really burr. The Jenga block will wipe the burr off. After 400 grit when it starts to matter. Jenga rub on 600. Rub after that on 1000.

You can see the burr metal stick in the wood. So you gotta run the block over the sanding belt again to clean the burr material out of the wood. One Jenga block will last forever until you get tired of sanding the end down.
 
TheOne45 said:
I see... Jenga (wooden) block.
So you don't use any stropping compound on the block?
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No Sir.

Let's say you've finished with the 400 grit. There's a good burr you can snag a paper towel on. Before you move to 600. You wipe the edge from heel to point and then point to heel. Two total swipes. Repeat after you're done with 600 and so forth.

Plain wood. No compound. End grain. Here's the current Jenga piece I use. (It needs to be cleaned again.)


 
Now I see. You are not using the wood as a strop but you cut into the wood to tear off the burr.
Right?
 
Does a left on burr cause the edge to flatten out? My S35VN knife must have had something because it got a flat spot after I cut some food on the countertop. No excessive pressure.
 
RugerNurse said:
Does a left on burr cause the edge to flatten out? My S35VN knife must have had something because it got a flat spot after I cut some food on the countertop. No excessive pressure.
Click to expand...


That needs a hone. The super fine edge will roll. A ceramic hone (Butcher's Steel) will straighten the fine edge. Aligns it back.
 
The burr can fold over and make an edge dull at that spot.
S35VN has carbides so I think it's not good to use any sort of ceramic on the edge.
 
Odd that my lc200n and s35 both had gotten flat spots easily (maybe it’s me sharpening them poorly, but I try to make sure the burr is removed), but my SAKs see abuse and never roll
 
That's not been so much my experience. The other option is to use a smooth butcher's steel. Not the ones with tiny ridges along the length. Nothing more then a smooth rod of steel. Like the barrel of a 22lr.

You can find the smooth hones but you have to search. It's more a butcher item then home kitchen related.
 
TheOne45 said:
How do you sharpen your s35 knife?
Click to expand...
Using the Worksharp precision. The edge from the factory was pretty close to 20° so I took the 600 grit and smoothed it out until I got the burr as best I could feel then the other side. Ran it through some wood to deburr and used the ceramic stone and then stropped on leather. No compound
 
Doing that before the use of a kitchen knife? Clamping it up, finding the exact angle for the strop.

Or running it across a hone steel.


You'd have to strop the thing every single day. Clamp up, find the angle and strop. For some onions and potatoes.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
Doing that before the use of a kitchen knife? Clamping it up, finding the exact angle for the strop.

Or running it across a hone steel.


You'd have to strop the thing every single day. Clamp up, find the angle and strop. For some onions and potatoes.
Click to expand...
The knife is the M1 caper from White River. I was using it in a pinch for some pepper slicing while camping. Sorry, that part would have helped to know.
 
TheOne45 said:
I didn't want to start a new thread so I thought it won't hurt if I post my question here.
Lets say that I need to sharpen my knife but only thing available is my folding pocket sharpener with #320 and #600 diamond plate.
How would I get more or less burr free edge only with my folding sharpener?
Click to expand...
Since I'm still learning this stuff, I just reviewed Steven Roman's advice. If the blade is not damaged, you should take a few light strokes with the #600 grit and then strop. I've read several places that stropping should be our "go to" for regular maintenance of undamaged blades but I just received my strop block yesterday, so I don't have first-hand knowledge. I'm assuming that it cleans up the burr and refines the edge so you need to have a portable strop as well as the folding sharpener. Folks used to use the inside of their belts - I remember seeing my dad do that 70 years ago.
 
Emery E Mitchamore said:
If the blade is not damaged, you should take a few light strokes with the #600 grit and then strop.
Click to expand...
I use strops.
I was asking how to deburr just with diamond plates.
No palms, no jeans, no wood, no car glass, no creek stones, no gun barrels,.... nothing.
Just diamond plates #320 and #600.
 
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