- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 157
Here's a couple recent choppers I did:
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I can't stop looking at this blade. I wish I could zoom in more to appreciate it. I can't even begin to imagine how long that took you to make
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Here's a couple recent choppers I did:
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Here's a couple recent choppers I did:
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Very nice.So about one year ago i bought a piece of land.
A lot of work, wood work, chopping treas and preparing the area for future house building.
At about the same time i made a cleaver.
I used it a lot. It was my primary tool when working with wood, as my chain saw was old like hell and really shitty.
The cleaver was about 12" long blade made of 5mm thick 1065 steel. Amazing tool to be honest. But after some time of using it i came to a conclusion that it could be bigger, longer definitely heavier. Maybe I've got stronger using the first knife?..
So i made a new design. 14" blade, 7mm thick NZ3 high impact resistance tool steel, about 1150g. Longer and chubbier handle with flared butt and front of the scales.
This is my favorite handle profile, for big knives, very safe and comfortable to use.
Though this handle is extra long. What i learned about working knives, choppers,, is that some slim handles are really comfortable to hold but the long and chubby ones are really comfortable to work with... And it matters a lot when chopping for few hours in a row.
For the new design i decided to go with almost full flat grind to keep small bevel angle and slightly rounded spine with no false edge. I wanted it to be head heavy. Another thing i added were these plunges on the spine.
Sometimes when i work with wood, treas and want to trow away a big log from my way i need to use both hands, though i do not want to put away my knife just for a sec. So I used to use a spine of the blade holding it in my one hand to help the other hand with trowing a log away. Like on my movie. I couldn't really do it with my first knife as the spine was flat and the false bevel sharp.
With those plunges now this operation seems to be fairly more easy and secure.
I guess there are still few things i could do better,and different people have different needs and preferences but Im really happy with this design. and i think i made a great tool for hard work in forest. I love all types of knives but using a tool like this I really feel the power of the steel and making working knives seams really purposeful.
Woodsman Cleaver
Steel/thickness: NZ3/7mm - ~S1/0.275"
Blade length/ Overall lengthi: 38/55cm - 15.000/21.500"
Handle materials: vulcanized fiber/Brown canvas micarta
Weight: 1175g - 41.500oz
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You can see how it chops on my new FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/Giedyminsbigblades/
Best regards
Giedymin
So about one year ago i bought a piece of land.
A lot of work, wood work, chopping treas and preparing the area for future house building.
At about the same time i made a cleaver.
I used it a lot. It was my primary tool when working with wood, as my chain saw was old like hell and really shitty.
The cleaver was about 12" long blade made of 5mm thick 1065 steel. Amazing tool to be honest. But after some time of using it i came to a conclusion that it could be bigger, longer definitely heavier. Maybe I've got stronger using the first knife?..
So i made a new design. 14" blade, 7mm thick NZ3 high impact resistance tool steel, about 1150g. Longer and chubbier handle with flared butt and front of the scales.
This is my favorite handle profile, for big knives, very safe and comfortable to use.
Though this handle is extra long. What i learned about working knives, choppers,, is that some slim handles are really comfortable to hold but the long and chubby ones are really comfortable to work with... And it matters a lot when chopping for few hours in a row.
For the new design i decided to go with almost full flat grind to keep small bevel angle and slightly rounded spine with no false edge. I wanted it to be head heavy. Another thing i added were these plunges on the spine.
Sometimes when i work with wood, treas and want to trow away a big log from my way i need to use both hands, though i do not want to put away my knife just for a sec. So I used to use a spine of the blade holding it in my one hand to help the other hand with trowing a log away. Like on my movie. I couldn't really do it with my first knife as the spine was flat and the false bevel sharp.
With those plunges now this operation seems to be fairly more easy and secure.
I guess there are still few things i could do better,and different people have different needs and preferences but Im really happy with this design. and i think i made a great tool for hard work in forest. I love all types of knives but using a tool like this I really feel the power of the steel and making working knives seams really purposeful.
Woodsman Cleaver
Steel/thickness: NZ3/7mm - ~S1/0.275"
Blade length/ Overall lengthi: 38/55cm - 15.000/21.500"
Handle materials: vulcanized fiber/Brown canvas micarta
Weight: 1175g - 41.500oz
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
You can see how it chops on my new FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/Giedyminsbigblades/
Best regards
Giedymin