Silky Saws...Nothing else compares...Ultimate Hand Saws

lmalterna said:
I use Sandvik and Felco folding saws- how do these Silky's compare?
2Door
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I've used them and they are nice, but the Silky still is the only one that utterly amazed me. It was shocking how well it worked compared to anything I've used.
 
I ended up cutting through a couple 8p finish nails with a Gomboy by accident, so I tried it as a camp saw for awhile because it wasn't clean enough cutter for trim work. It still outcut every other saw I've used for campfire wood duty. Felco makes the best pruners in the world, but I'm not real keen on their saws. Sandvik makes a great product as well, but Silky still cuts faster and is more comfortable. Of course this is all just my opinion based on my experiences.
 
mymindisamob said:
Felco makes the best pruners in the world, but I'm not real keen on their saws.
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Agreed. Can't beat a hand held pruner that has a removable, replacable, and high carbon steel blade- especially if one is a knife nut. Whenever I'm out in my nursery I have my Felco #9 with me and a Silky Woodboy 240 for the stuff that is too large for the felcos to cut. I guess it was designed for woodworking, what with its fine teeth, but I've found it does very well on green branches.
 
roughedges said:
Agreed. Can't beat a hand held pruner that has a removable, replacable, and high carbon steel blade- especially if one is a knife nut. Whenever I'm out in my nursery I have my Felco #9 with me and a Silky Woodboy 240 for the stuff that is too large for the felcos to cut. I guess it was designed for woodworking, what with its fine teeth, but I've found it does very well on green branches.
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I've replaced all my traditional Dozuki's with the Silky Woodboys. Truly an amazing saw for half the price while doing twice the work without sharpening.:thumbup:
 
I know next to nothing about saws - someone want to clue me in on the difference in teeth sizes and which are best for what materials?

thanks :thumbup:
 
Saw blades are measured in TPI (teeth per inch) and, generally speaking, the less teeth per inch the more aggressive a cutter the saw will be. Also, coarser toothed saws will clear gummy, sappy, or green wood more quickly than a finer toothed one. Finer toothed saws tend to leave a smaller kerf (the width of the cut), are less likely to chip out and can make more precise cuts. For wilderness use, a coarse saw is great but, for detail or finishing work, you'd want something with more TPI.



mymindisamob:

Truly an amazing saw for half the price while doing twice the work without sharpening.
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sums it up very nicely. The Silky saws have amazing quality at that price point.
 
Brian Jones said:
I wondered, too, waba, but he seems to have posted in here about all sorts of stuff, not jus Silky. NorCal, are you associated with the Silky site or sellers in any way?
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LOL. You know I read my post before I posted it and I even said to myself that it kinda sounded like that. I can assure you that I am not associated with Silky in any way other than a user of their product.

Heres the most recent tree I used my Silky Ibuki on. Pine removal.

pinetakedowndj0.jpg
 
Hmm, i think I may need a Pocketboy. Looks like the perfect thing for a pack.
 
I have been thinking of getting one for a long time. I can't find Any with in 50 miles of me. I wanted to check one out before I bought it. I am sure I could get one on line but some times it nice to get your mitts on a new peace of gear before you buy it.
 
norcalblacktail said:
What size firewood are you sectioning? I would recommend something larger than a pocketboy for firewood. Either a Big Boy or Zorin.
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3"-6 diameter, about 24-30" long. Need to cut it in half so it will fit in the firepit. Splitting the wood is done with other tools ;)
 
norcalblacktail said:
LOL. You know I read my post before I posted it and I even said to myself that it kinda sounded like that. I can assure you that I am not associated with Silky in any way other than a user of their product.
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All's well, NorCal, and thanks for replying. When in doubt, I just ask, and your word is good with me. I didn't think it was advertising. Hope to see you around here often.

Best,

~Brian.
 
They sound good; I'm on the lookout for a good saw since my wife confiscated my old gerber for use in her garden.

Best of all, these seem readily available in the UK for a change. Expensive, but good kit is worth the money.

Thanks NorCal for the excellent info.
 
Would the fine or extra fine toothed blades on the pocket model work okay to cut fresh bone? Would that wreck the blade for normal use? I'm thinking about the aitch bone on a deer or elk.
 
roughedges said:
Saw blades are measured in TPI (teeth per inch) and, generally speaking, the less teeth per inch the more aggressive a cutter the saw will be. Also, coarser toothed saws will clear gummy, sappy, or green wood more quickly than a finer toothed one. Finer toothed saws tend to leave a smaller kerf (the width of the cut), are less likely to chip out and can make more precise cuts. For wilderness use, a coarse saw is great but, for detail or finishing work, you'd want something with more TPI.
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much appreciated :thumbup:
 
gunknifenut said:
I just broke my Home Depot $9.00 special..made in Korea..Razorback?? I will have to get it and post a pic...I hadn't used it 5 minutes before it Broke..right at the joint. The Blade snapped when it bound on some wet wood. I guess I have to check one of these out. Gene
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My Fiskars $10 pocket saw has been going strong for 2 years of field use w/o any sharpening:thumbup: It has a 5-6" blade and it slides back into the handle for easy cut-free carry in your pack or pocket. It comes with a belt hanging clip that I don't use.

I know there is a blade length on hand saws such as these that make the work easier in the field, say to gather some firewood, if the blade is longer. For my purposes of a small campfire I've been ok with 6-8"dia wood and under. A longer blade = longer handle = more space for storage if you don't want it hanging on your belt exposed.
 
Spark said:
3"-6 diameter, about 24-30" long. Need to cut it in half so it will fit in the firepit. Splitting the wood is done with other tools ;)
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The Pockertboy 170 will work but I think you would be better off with a little longer blade. Try looking at the Tog Gun, Accel, or Gomboys. Something with a little longer to pull with will get through those pieces of firewood a little quicker.

Hope this helps.
 
Bernoulli said:
Would the fine or extra fine toothed blades on the pocket model work okay to cut fresh bone? Would that wreck the blade for normal use? I'm thinking about the aitch bone on a deer or elk.
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You know I think one with the extra fine teeth would probably work. Ive always thought about it but never had my fine tooth on me when hunting.
 
How would these rate next to a Florian 'Root Saw'? I thought of getting one of those lately, but then this thread popped up.
 
I just got my Pocketboy 130 in the mail. YOWSA! No plastic junk here-- this thing is a *tool*. I have a Kershaw/Bacho folder so I went with the smaller Silky 130 model that has a 5-1/4" blade to save weight and space. These are aggressive saws with a handle that you can work with all day. The pivot screw is a monster. The saw weighs 6 ounces on the nose and folds to 6-1/2". The thong hole is 5/16" so you can get a decent sized line through it. The plastic sheath/case with a hinged lid is very nice and weighs just 1.8 ounces if you want to carry it on your belt or a carabiner.

They do make some of their saws with an orange handle. It would be great to see that as an option on some of the smaller models.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: on this one!

pocketboy130lt.jpg
 
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