Slipjoint stuff...

[KnifeHead]

Kerry,

1. Yes, the handle will always be longer, generally speaking(this being the folksy forum, I'll not go for the obvious x-rated zingers)....but by how much or little....the handle is to store the longest blade possible, IMO.

2. Was just talking to Win Heger about this "irritate the hand" thing. A lot of makers have serious callous and loss of feeling in their hands, so the knife may feel great to them, and I am definitely talking about veteran makers with solid skills, BUT, us wussy, desk-jockey types will be much more sensitive to unbroken or barely broken 90 degree angles than cause us to flinch when limp wristing open the day's trust fund envelope(ha-ha, lol)....difference of perceptions...I suggested to Win that it might benefit the makers to have the wife, girlfriend or sister handle it, and give feedback before shipping. What do you think about that?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Both excellent points!

Handle shape does determine how long and deep you can make the blade. There is a certain amount of aesthetic appeal that was taken into consideration when the old patterns were designed but, generally speaking, It looks to me that the blade/handle ratio was not one of the considerations. I think the focus was on being able to carry a knife around in ones pocket and not how balanced it looked when the blade was open. And while I'm talking about balance, the weight balance issue isn't taken into consideration much on slip joints, especially on multi bladed knives.

That is a great idea about getting someone with soft hands to handle a finished knife to test it out. My wife handles the ones I make and she will tell me if something isn't right...but she never finds anything bad

 

[Blues]

I won't quibble with an 1/8" unless we are talking about a pile of $100 dollar bills.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Now we're getting back into my former life. (Let's not go there. )

20 lbs. of $100's makes a million (give or take a few bucks).

 

[KnifeHead]

I just measured mine (MY KNIFE) and it is 4.5" long and the blade from the point as it exits the bolster is exactly 3.75". Is that ok (I have room for about .125" more blade in the handle)

 

[Blues]

I won't quibble with an 1/8" unless we are talking about a pile of $100 dollar bills.

The model that I have, by another maker is 4 1/2" handle, and 3 7/16" blade, which is again, about 1/4" +/- too short.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

My 4.5" trappers:

P.J. Tomes "Bullet" Lockback (slightly under 4.5" closed): 3.5" blade, tip to bolster

Joe Allen "BackPocket": 3.5" tip to bolster

Queen "Mt. Man" Lockback: 3 5/8" tip to bolster

The Queen is somewhat wider and beefier than the customs.

 

[KnifeHead]

Now we're getting back into my former life. (Let's not go there. )

20 lbs. of $100's makes a million (give or take a few bucks).

I bet I can run like hell carrying a 20lb sack of $100s

 

[KnifeHead]

My 4.5" trappers:

P.J. Tomes "Bullet" Lockback (slightly under 4.5" closed): 3.5" blade, tip to bolster

Joe Allen "BackPocket: 3.5" tip to bolster

Queen Mt. Man Lockback: 3 5/8" tip to bolster

The Queen is somewhat wider and beefier than the customs.

Hmmmmm....interesting

 

[Blues]

STeven,

What you need is my 4 5/8" Moore Maker sodbuster. Blade is 3.75" tip to scales. :thumbup:

Or, having read Kerry's reply, you need Kerry to make you a knife.

 

[KnifeHead]

What about the "wasted space" due to the exposed tang? That is going to vary greatly from maker to maker probably.

 

[Kohai999]

STeven,

What you need is my 4 5/8" Moore Maker sodbuster. Blade is 3.75" tip to scales. :thumbup:

Brass liners, tho', right?

Trying to get all stainless handle construction, Elliott.

At some point I am going to sell/swap off all the factory slipjoints that I have, except for the Queen, in hope of convincing a maker to work on the handle I mentioned above, and the Case/Bose SS factory collab slim trapper that I got last year.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[Blues]

Brass liners, tho', right?

Trying to get all stainless handle construction, Elliott.

At some point I am going to sell/swap off all the factory slipjoints that I have, except for the Queen, in hope of convincing a maker to work on the handle I mentioned above, and the Case/Bose SS factory collab slim trapper that I got last year.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Yep. Forgot about your brass/stainless preferences. Still, shouldn't be too hard to find someone to do it the way you want.

 

[Thomason]

I'm with Kerry. Nothing worse than a "hot" edge on anything but the cutting edge.

I like that term, "hot edge". I have a custom two blader. Each and every edge is hot. Makes the knife very uncomfortable to handle. It's a shame too. Everything else about the knife is very well done.

I've seen pictures of several Ohta's but that one of yours really appeals to me, STeven. Could it be you are a little more folksy that you like to admit?

 

[2Shot]

Kerry,

You claim that you can still get ".125" more length?? Well, this knife doesn't seem to be up to normal standards or specs, so I'll PM you my address, and you just mail that "just not quite right knife" to me, and I'll just tuck it away, in my front pants pocket, and then you won't have to worry about that "little .125"! :thumbup:

And who said that this Looong winer doesn't get to us!

Kent

 

[RAN]

Blade lengths and handle Ratios on Back Pockets seem consistent
some makers taper the width in front the bolster which gives the illusion of a more blade but the length is there..fluting and rounding of the bolster also gives you that visual...

 

[KnifeHead]

Kerry,

You claim that you can still get ".125" more length?? Well, this knife doesn't seem to be up to normal standards or specs, so I'll PM you my address, and you just mail that "just not quite right knife" to me, and I'll just tuck it away, in my front pants pocket, and then you won't have to worry about that "little .125"! :thumbup:

And who said that this Looong winer doesn't get to us!

Kent

It's my first one so a tiny flaw like that won't hurt a thing....gonna keep it thank you very much.

 

[Tony Bose]

When Blues said he thought the blade looked short on the BP I told him it was like a womans legs, they go from their feet to their ass. He thought I was cocking off but I wasn't. If the geometry is right on the tang and the knife is closed the end of the spring will be even with the end of the tang. The blade will go to the other end of the knife as close to the end as you can get it without rapping the spring. When a slip joint snaps shut the blade goes on down in the pocket and snaps back up in place and you can't see it do it. If it's too long it will rap the spring and put a flat place on the edge.which would cause a lot of squalling. Since the BP has a lanyard in it the spring raps around so the tube won't show which means the blade can't go any farther then it does or it would rap the spring. If you didn't bring the spring around you could let the blade go on back but knives made like that are weak and would collapse with little pressure.
My BP is 4 1/2 inches closed and the blade is 3 11/16 long, it can't be any longer.

I agree that the angle of the photograph can make them look shorter. I hope this helps.

 

[Kohai999]

My BP is 4 1/2 inches closed and the blade is 3 11/16 long, it can't be any longer.

Thanks for taking the time to respond, Tony, does Reese make a shorter blade than that, or did he at one time?

Because that is what I saw, and measured it(a shorter blade to handle than that)...your measurements are about perfect for what I expect, but the likelihood of my ever coming across one of your BP's, let alone owning one are very slim....

'bout as likely as my owning a Loveless Big Bear, Lake interframe, Walker Zipperlock or other unobtainium items...although one of your slim 2 blade wharncliffe trappers would likely send me into heart failure...try to keep my expectations grounded in reality.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[Kohai999]

I like that term, "hot edge". I have a custom two blader. Each and every edge is hot. Makes the knife very uncomfortable to handle. It's a shame too. Everything else about the knife is very well done.

I've seen pictures of several Ohta's but that one of yours really appeals to me, STeven. Could it be you are a little more folksy that you like to admit?

Rob,

I can break the edges for you..... did it on my Grizzly with a cork belt on this BP in my pocket, it took an hour, but was worth it in satisfaction and carryability.

I like slipjoints, have been carrying one since my early teens(EDC about 6 knives)....that said, tend to ruffle feathers of the folksy folk, and you have a nice sub-Forum here with a tight group of folks, so mostly I keep to my beloved customs....where sensibilities and banter run to the more jaded, caustic and cosmopolitan as befits us high-minded, black-hearted city dwellers(grew up in the Mohawk Valley region of upstate New York, commonly referred to as Little Appalachia).

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[Durwood]

Personally, STeven, I wish you would stick around and stir things up a little more often I think the forum could stand a little more pointed and insightful discussion from time to time

...FWIW, I agree very much with your assessment that some makers leave far too many sharp edges and I've passed this along gently to some of them.

 

[Tony Bose]

Remember folks we don't put on a cape and mask when we go into the shop. It's possible that some blades are a little shorter than others but if they are we can't throw them away. That's how we buy groceries and they are a hand made knife.

If you look at the old Sheffield catalogs they say they have full round handles. There shouldn't be anything square on the handle. Round them over men and make them feel good.

 

[Kohai999]

Personally, STeven, I wish you would stick around and stir things up a little more often I think the forum could stand a little more pointed and insightful discussion from time to time

...FWIW, I agree very much with your assessment that some makers leave far too many sharp edges and I've passed this along gently to some of them.

Thanks Durwood, appreciate the comments.

As far as the sharp edges go, I really do think it boils down to the makers skin sensitivity in the hands....suggested to more than one maker that they run the liners and spines along the BACK of their hands, if they don't have a missus......SMART and very observant makers have missed this stuff, which seems so blatant to me, but I have hands like a little girl.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson