so I chipped my nmfbm...

Lycosa said:
lol! Rob- If I HAD to it, ok. But my knives are tools and I was taught to respect my tools.
You are correct tho, INFI can take anything.
OINK!! :D
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Welcome back my friend --- we thought we lost you for a minute :)
 
Yea...I was shocked. ....I post pics of a Busse blade having seen much use and hear critical comments from people I thought were supportive of such use? Confused the hell out of me too. Won't do that again. Just goes to show ya I guess.
 
zombieassassin said:
Yea...I was shocked. ....I post pics of a Busse blade having seen much use and hear critical comments from people I thought were supportive of such use? Confused the hell out of me too. Won't do that again. Just goes to show ya I guess.
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That tglb is a true test to what a busse blade should be capable of. I like the pics of the tattered edge. I means it's done work
 
Thanks b! It's nothing that can't be fixed right up by the amazing BEEF anyway. It is due for a spa trip soon once I beat the rest of the edge and finish off of it.
 
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You may want to give that TGLB a good sharpening though to remove all that deformed steel at the edge, bending/deforming steel weakens it and makes it more susceptible to further damage. Just my opinion, but YMMV.
 
Spent more time on the stones with the mistress, polished her up a little.
Got the day off, had nothing to do so had some tequila and decided to baton some wood for a bonfire.
She did well, even struck the concrete (by accident, been drinking) and to my surprise, no dent no roll no chip.

Doing what she was born to do, break stuff.



Not to my surprise, polishing the entire blade made it so much easier to baton.
 
So I've never stripped and mirror polished an entire knife before --- I'm about to receive an awesome coated NMFBM --- I wanted to know realistically how long it takes to do both these, how labor intensive it is, and how much attention to detail it requires. I would be doing everything by hand/chemical solution. Also when stripping with a chemical solution -- does it by any chance alter the overall integrity of the steel? Thanks guys!

-Rob Abyane
 
Rob_Mob said:
So I've never stripped and mirror polished an entire knife before --- I'm about to receive an awesome coated NMFBM --- I wanted to know realistically how long it takes to do both these, how labor intensive it is, and how much attention to detail it requires. I would be doing everything by hand/chemical solution. Also when stripping with a chemical solution -- does it by any chance alter the overall integrity of the steel? Thanks guys!

-Rob Abyane
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Mirror polishing is very labor/time intensive, that's why it's not often done. Any stripper that is safe for stripping steel shouldn't harm the steel at all.
 
Red Angel Dragnet said:
Mirror polishing is very labor/time intensive, that's why it's not often done. Any stripper that is safe for stripping steel shouldn't harm the steel at all.
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Thank you for the quick response -- definitely much appreciated. If I could just ask a few follow ups. I wanted to know how tedious the mirror polishing is and I also would love just a ball park time frame for a super refined mirror polish. Thanks brother!
 
I've heard for years that "factory" edges can sometimes be compromised due to the high speed sharpening & subsequent friction heat build up and that they may deform, in various ways, with heavy use...

I've also had brothers advise to "erase" the factory edge by drawing the edge perpendicular to a med/coarse stone and "get into the virgin, good steel" with a thorough re-apexing & resharpening...

I will add the disclaimer that I've never had a problem with a factory edge from Busse...but I thought I would just put it out there because some of the guys who passed this on to me carry a lot of weight in my book...YMMV
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
I've heard for years that "factory" edges can sometimes be compromised due to the high speed sharpening & subsequent friction heat build up and that they may deform, in various ways, with heavy use...

I've also had brothers advise to "erase" the factory edge and "get into the virgin, good steel" with a thorough resharpening...

I will add the disclaimer that I've never had a problem with a factory edge from Busse...but I thought I would just put it out there because some of the guys who passed this on to me carry a lot of weight in my estimation...YMMV
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Hey Petey!

As always your input is very much appreciated. Your posts are actually what led me to shoot for a thinner NMFBM and TTKZ. It certainly does make sense about the edge -- I haven't really had any problems -- but any virgin edge is going to have to be "better". The fact that it's protected from even microscopic corrosion and since factory edges are quickly grinded means they have to be on some level less "strong" than a hand sharpened fresh edge.

I put mirror polished V edges on all of my Busse knives. The reason being that I used the Wicked Edge system which allows me to ensure perfect edge uniformity. Do you think the newer TTKZ's ground by the shop with a mirror polished V edge would be significantly disadvantaged by a re ground full convex to zero edge? I hope not -- haha -- but I'll accept reality if that's what I have to do. Thanks!
 
You're welcome Rob!

I'm not a "hard-use" type, but I'm ever-willing to share my limited experiences with all the brothers...

I'm a V grind secondary, with microbevel guy ( mainly cause that's what I'm used to )...I've found it to be a very versatile easy to maintain edge...:thumbup:

I'm unsure about what you call a "re ground convex to zero edge"...I'm guessing you're talking of a hybrid, or modified edge treatment? :confused:

To me, a zero treatment is just one wedge from spine to apex, perfect triangular flat sides in cross-section with the apex at the most acute vertex-- no secondary grinds, or rounded transitions...

I've never run a zero edge, the closest I've come is a Scandi...they have lots of positive points, but they tend to remove more metal from the bevels than the way I like to sharpen...

but you know the saying, "horses for courses" :cool:

And I've never had an INFI edge suffer significant damage running a V-edge & microbev that I couldn't work out by hand...but I am not too proud to send it back to the factory for re calibration if I get in over my head...

I don't think you're gonna see a QUANTUM leap in performance with all the different edge geometries...go with the treatment you're able to sharpen best & enjoy most...:)

But with thinner overall stock and thin behind the edge...now that's where I've seen a noticeable upgrade in performance in slicing & chopping :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
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I've stripped and polished a couple of my babies, well all the didn't come satin, and it takes a while.... Strip it, and when you do, let it sit for an extra bit of time. Sanding off that little bit of coating that didn't have stripper get tonit isn't fun. Also. Use some isopropyl alcohol to get a bit closer to bare metal, it saves a bit more time.

From there, its just patience, and making sure that you get a nice even sheen as you progress up the grit number ladder..... I end up at about 5 micron finishing film that I get from the employer, don't tell through.

Then I hit er up with some 3 and then 1 micron lapping paste on newspaper for a nice even mirror polish.

Takes me the good portion of 2-5 sessions of 3 hours after work for a SteelHeart Ergo.
 
Ok, i think my nmfbm is finally done sharpening. It will slice rolled wax paper, which is sharp!

This Wednesday I'm heading out to my mom's place and help her clean an oak tree that fell last winter from the storms.
 
HwangJino said:
Ok, i think my nmfbm is finally done sharpening. It will slice rolled wax paper, which is sharp!

This Wednesday I'm heading out to my mom's place and help her clean an oak tree that fell last winter from the storms.
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The infi has made you a do gooder.... Bless those fallen trees
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
You're welcome Rob!

I'm not a "hard-use" type, but I'm ever-willing to share my limited experiences with all the brothers...

I'm a V grind secondary, with microbevel guy ( mainly cause that's what I'm used to )...I've found it to be a very versatile easy to maintain edge...:thumbup:

I'm unsure about what you call a "re ground convex to zero edge"...I'm guessing you're talking of a hybrid, or modified edge treatment? :confused:

To me, a zero treatment is just one wedge from spine to apex, perfect triangular flat sides in cross-section with the apex at the most acute vertex-- no secondary grinds, or rounded transitions...

I've never run a zero edge, the closest I've come is a Scandi...they have lots of positive points, but they tend to remove more metal from the bevels than the way I like to sharpen...

but you know the saying, "horses for courses" :cool:

And I've never had an INFI edge suffer significant damage running a V-edge & microbev that I couldn't work out by hand...but I am not too proud to send it back to the factory for re calibration if I get in over my head...

I don't think you're gonna see a QUANTUM leap in performance with all the different edge geometries...go with the treatment you're able to sharpen best & enjoy most...:)

But with thinner overall stock and thin behind the edge...now that's where I've seen a noticeable upgrade in performance in slicing & chopping :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks for the response brother! I was indeed referring to modifying a factory profile to a single bevel from spine to apex. For some reason I was under the impression that you had advocated for that -- must have been some one else --- I too prefer a secondary V. Although I skip the micro bevel. Glad to hear your experience has been more than sufficient with that grind. I'm definitely interested in optimal performance and I know that it all has to do with blade geometry and edge thickness. I definitely thin the shoulders and put refined edges on my Busse's so I hear you loud and clear there. Thanks for the input.
 
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