so I chipped my nmfbm...

I've stripped and polished a couple of my babies, well all the didn't come satin, and it takes a while.... Strip it, and when you do, let it sit for an extra bit of time. Sanding off that little bit of coating that didn't have stripper get tonit isn't fun. Also. Use some isopropyl alcohol to get a bit closer to bare metal, it saves a bit more time.

From there, its just patience, and making sure that you get a nice even sheen as you progress up the grit number ladder..... I end up at about 5 micron finishing film that I get from the employer, don't tell through.

Then I hit er up with some 3 and then 1 micron lapping paste on newspaper for a nice even mirror polish.

Takes me the good portion of 2-5 sessions of 3 hours after work for a SteelHeart Ergo.

Thanks Timmy! You definitely have a lot of patience man! Hats off to you . . .
 
I put mirror polished V edges on all of my Busse knives. The reason being that I used the Wicked Edge system which allows me to ensure perfect edge uniformity. Do you think the newer TTKZ's ground by the shop with a mirror polished V edge would be significantly disadvantaged by a re ground full convex to zero edge? I hope not -- haha -- but I'll accept reality if that's what I have to do. Thanks!

Twas I who suggested convex to true zero geometry. My thinking on putting a V-edge on a full convex primary grind is that it is similar to putting a round peg in a square hole. Sure you can do it if the round peg is small enough to fit in, but it will never truly fit IMO. A good compromise I suppose would be finding the rough angle that the full convex grind terminates at and go just a hair over this degree with your V-grind and keep the bevel as small as possible. In other words don't over sharpen….

But the problem I see is that as you resharpen you keep getting into thicker metal, which equates to having to regrind the primary towards the edge. Basically using a true zero on full convex allows you the thin behind the edge as you sharpen if that makes sense. It also allows for the lowest possible degrees per side to allow for cutting performance.
 
Did some final polishing of the edge, using a chosera 6000.

Also took out most of the chips with a Gesshin 400 and 1000.

Thing is sharp!

 
Yeah found more mini chips along the edge, stoned em out today.
I'm tempted to bash things, but afraid to snap a piece off..
 
Yeah found more mini chips along the edge, stoned em out today.
I'm tempted to bash things, but afraid to snap a piece off..

If they are microscopic or close to it (barely visible), I wouldn't worry much about it and continue as you were. IMO, shock steels such as INFI must be renewed regularly at the edge to prevent weakening of the metal at the apex so it's all just part of maintaining it anyways. Just be careful not to over sharpen and you will get many many years of use out of that beast, YMMV as always though...
 
Twas I who suggested convex to true zero geometry. My thinking on putting a V-edge on a full convex primary grind is that it is similar to putting a round peg in a square hole. Sure you can do it if the round peg is small enough to fit in, but it will never truly fit IMO. A good compromise I suppose would be finding the rough angle that the full convex grind terminates at and go just a hair over this degree with your V-grind and keep the bevel as small as possible. In other words don't over sharpen….

But the problem I see is that as you resharpen you keep getting into thicker metal, which equates to having to regrind the primary towards the edge. Basically using a true zero on full convex allows you the thin behind the edge as you sharpen if that makes sense. It also allows for the lowest possible degrees per side to allow for cutting performance.

I see what your saying -- makes sense. I'll experiment a little and see what I can do to find the right compromise! Thanks man!
 
Did some final polishing of the edge, using a chosera 6000.

Also took out most of the chips with a Gesshin 400 and 1000.

Thing is sharp!



I'm sorry, but I cannot make sense out of that pic at all. I'm sure it is just me, but what am I looking at? Can't even recognize the blade shape.
 
Sorry my photo skills are disgustingly bad haha.

Yeah, edge up and tip away from me. Basically the blue shiny thing is the blade. It's almost mirror polished.
 
Glad to see it all worked out.
That knife looks beautiful.

I just had another meet and greet at my house and we had another chopping/knife competition and a my New MOABolo suffered a few injuries (hit screw heads ) but they sharpened right out.

And my NMFBM (Oinkaliber 2) sliced through a 3" ( 2" actually. it seemed like 3") free hanging rope in one whack. I will post a thread later.

Looks very good my friend.
 
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Glad to see it all worked out.
That knife looks beautiful.

I just had another meet and greet at my house and we had another chopping/knife competition and a my New MOABolo suffered a few injuries (hit screw heads ) but they sharpened right out.

And my NMFBM (Oinkaliber 2) sliced through a 3" free hanging rope in one whack. I will post a thread later.

Looks very good my friend.

Thanks! The polished blade really helps with batoning.
haven't tried free hanging rope, but it sure sounds fun!

Can't wait to see your thread!
 
@ Raoh67

News to me. Could you post a link to the thread on this changed INFI composition, please?
 
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Today I beat on a bucket again, this time the bucket was upside down, figured it offer more resistance.

No chipping this time, at all, took some thinning out. But now it SINKS in.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but chopped on this oak branch, about 7 inch. Whoo it's some hard wood!

 
Today I beat on a bucket again, this time the bucket was upside down, figured it offer more resistance.

No chipping this time, at all, took some thinning out. But now it SINKS in.

told ya so! glad you're happy with her now...thinning (a bit) really does make a big difference in "biting" ability :thumbup:
 
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