So you want to rub some sticks together?

THE STRING - part 6

Those other parts? Don't mean a thing, unless you got a string! (Sorry about that.)

The string is probably responsible for more failures than any other component. When I was learning how to do bow drill, I read in more than one place how a leather boot lace was ideal, so I went and bought some. Well, they stretched, they broke………………. I was really pissed off. I had worked really hard, got some smoke, a ton of broken string, AND NO COAL!

The problem? String slippage. If the string slips, it heats up (especially synthetic strings like faux para cord), or abrades, and breaks. It also 'rounds' the drill and reduces the speed of oscillation. All these things spell: F-R-E-E-Z-E Y-O-U-R
A-S-S O-F-F-! Every effort must be made to reduce and eliminate string slippage. Shape and size of your drill can help. This has already been covered - larger diameter drill where cord rides and hex shape drill. There are also some user techniques that help. We'll cover them once we put all the equipment together.

So for string, what I would like you to get is some cheapie cotton clothesline. The stuff I'm talking about is just a tad under 1/4" in diameter. Cotton because it doesn't overheat the way a synthetic does. See picture of string on my bow in part 5. Now you may not have access to this, so if not, some of the faux para cord (the white stuff that looks somewhat like 550, but is a bit smaller in diameter and does not have the 7 internal strands, will work, but you have to reverse twist it. Do you know how to reverse twist to make cordage? If not, check out: http://www.primitiveways.com/cordage.html . The reason to reverse twist is the bumps and grooves of reverse twisted cordage help to catch on the hex shape of the drill and provides better traction, therefore less slippage. This is especially important with this kind of cordage because being nylon, it has a tendency to slip. Failing this, some standard boot laces, but they must be reverse twisted. Make sure it is long enough - it must be able to have a loop at both ends, which extend from the handle to the forks and have enough slack so that the drill can be wrapped one time, with it.

We're just about there, the rest is easy. If you have gathered up the materials, and made the pieces the way I outlined, equipment should not be a problem. All we have to do now, is refine your technique. Really, it isn't that hard. Once you've done, say 4 or 5 coals in a row, you'll wonder why you had so much trouble.

OK, you have the ball. Run with it. When you have your parts to the bow drill tool ready, email me unless you have some questions, then by all means, don't wait.

Until then, cheers!
 
LET'S MAKE A COAL - part 1A

OK, all the gear is assembled, the string is on the bow. Find a nice, flat, level place on which to place the hearth. (I'm not just mentioning these things to exercise my typing fingers, please make sure it's flat and level and that there are no unusual distractions, like a nearby airport, expressway, etc., I want your full concentration on what you're doing.

String up the drill. The drill should be difficult to get into position. If it's not, the string is too loose, and you want to adjust it at the forked end. The drill should be on the outside of the string, like this:
Coal1.jpg




Not, like this:
Coal2.jpg





Place the tip of the drill in the dimple, place the arch (not the ball or the heel) of the foot on the board, with the foot as close as possible to the drill without touching. If the drill rubs on the shoe, friction is lost.
Coal3.jpg
 
LET'S MAKE A COAL - part 1B

Lock the inside of the left wrist against the left shin as solidly as you can. This reduces lateral movement at the top end of the drill. The right knee should be on the ground and back so it's out of the way of the bow hand.

Now start bowing. You have not yet created the notch to the depression. Keep bowing until you are burning a depression into the board. When the depression is the diameter of the drill, stop bowing.
hearth4-1.jpg




Take the saw blade of your Victorinox Champ, or knife blade and cut a 'V' shape notch into the depression from the edge, almost, but not quite to the centre. If you go all the way to the centre, you will develop a long point on your drill that will take away some of the friction where you most want it.

This notch should be about 1/8th of the pie of the charred depression. If you make the notch too wide, the drill will pop out, usually, when you have just about got your coal. If you make it too narrow, it is more difficult to build the proper pile of char dust.
hearth5-1.jpg
hearth6-1.jpg


Once you have removed the wedge, then undercut the sides, such as in the following:
hearth7-1.jpg



This allows more oxygen to get to the ember. It also helps to concentrate the pile of char dust.

Be back in a minute - have to make a phone call. I think I will finish this off when I come back'

Doc
 
Some woods have stringy or interlocking grain. You'll get fuzzy stuff sticking out when carving your notch. Cleaning that up makes a difference.

I like carving basswood, but it is not common where I live. Willow, Aspen, Cottonwood and Sycamore are though. I suspect the differences in wood used will have some affect on the need to clean up the notch.
 
LET'S MAKE A COAL - part 1C

Now take a piece of coarse sandpaper and sand off most of the char on the end of the drill, taking care to retain the shape of the end. It should now be rounded. Also sand out most of the char from the depression, once again try to retain the shape. Take a dry leaf, a piece of dry bark, or a piece of wood shaving and place it under the notch. This is called a fire pan and it is to protect the char powder from the dampness of the ground and also to provide a way that you can transfer the coal to the tinder bundle. Now start bowing - foot should be in the same place as before and left wrist should be firmly locked against your left shin. Try to keep the bow level. Also, try to use the full length of the bow.

Don't try to get a coal yet. Just get used to the bowing motion, warm up the drill and hearth. Don't tighten up your shoulders - this only leads to premature muscle fatigue. Bow some more. Most of all - DON'T PUT TOO MUCH PRESSURE DOWNWARDS ON THE DRILL!

This is a common mistake. Most survival books that talk about friction fire, emphasize over and over about putting downward pressure on the drill to increase the friction. Generally, the amount of pressure used to keep the drill in the hearth and the headpiece plus a little bit, is enough to get it smoking. Too much pressure creates 3 problems. 1- the grindings you produce are coarser than if less pressure is used. Coarser grindings require higher temperature to make them ignite (glow). 2- Too much downward pressure slows the drill, once again making it harder to get a coal. 3- Too much pressure will prematurely fatigue you, once again contributing to failure.

When it starts to smoke a lot, you can pick up the speed just a little and maybe, just maybe, add a touch more downward pressure. In a very short time you will see a separate bit of smoke coming from the char powder, separate from the smoke from the board. This is the coal. Drill just a touch more and stop. Don't move anything. Fan the charred powder with your hand, and even if it seems to stop smoking, don't stop fanning. Fan very vigourously. If you still have the coal, it will enlarge and start to visibly glow. I've had times when the smoke stopped, and reason told me the coal was dead, but I kept fanning and it started smoking again. Some people advocate blowing gently with your mouth to help the coal increase in size, and, in truth, I have done this, but, there is concern that the moisture in your breath could be counterproductive to nurturing the coal and I am trying to eliminate any possible problems for you, with this ever-important first coal.

At this point, take the tip of your knife and kind of secure the coal and char powder with it, and gently remove the hearth.
 
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CHECK LIST

LOCK WRIST AGAINST SHIN.

NOT TOO MUCH PRESSURE DOWNWARDS.

WARM UP BOARD AND DRILL FIRST.

THEN WORK ON INCREASING SPEED, NOT SO MUCH ON PRESSURE.

FAN WITH HAND, DON'T BLOW WITH MOUTH.
 
Well, that's it. Comments please, pro and con. I want help to make this an effective tutorial.

There is one other page, but you don't get it until you go and make that first coal. And if you don't, you won't be missing anything helpful. You'll also have to email me for it.

Good Luck,

Doc
 
Doc,

I think one more post is needed - blowing the coal into a flame with a tinder bundle.

This has caused a lot of failures for me. I was so focused on my coal - that I didn't have anything to do with it when I got done.

TF
 
I've followed this one through from the beginning without comment. It did not need my input. Sometimes folks need to know the "why" to do or not do things. You covered that quite well, and I am guessing that you also covered the "why not" of using your mouth to blow on the coal in the last page you mentioned (moistness is my own take on that). Yes, I already know how to make fire with this method, but could never explain it so clearly as you have done. And I always am ready to learn to do things a different way. Some of your steps are easier than mine.

This bowdrill tutorial, as with many of your posts, points out to me and others just how valuable you knowledge and experience are to this forum. I look forward to the next lesson.

Codger
 
Talfuchre said:
Doc,

I think one more post is needed - blowing the coal into a flame with a tinder bundle.

This has caused a lot of failures for me. I was so focused on my coal - that I didn't have anything to do with it when I got done.

TF
Click to expand...

Hey TF,

My goal with the tutorial was to help people get their first coal. Once they achieve that, they are not going to quit, but many quit before that . You do, however, raise a good point. A coal by itself is pretty useless, so rather than alter the tutorial to transform that coal into a flame, I think that perhaps an adjunct tutorial covering that and also the use of coal enhancers, 2 stick fire boards, damp woods, etc. is in order. Perhaps somebody else would like to take that up?

Codger, you are too kind!

No the moisture in your breath is not covered in the last page. As I mentioned, there is really nothing of an educational nature in it. I think you're right, it would be a good addition. Thank you.

Doc
 
Something I should mention, and it's only a suggestion - as you experiment with different woods and techniques, keep a log and record your successes and difficulties. This makes it easy to go back and check which wood combinations were easier, which more difficult, etc.

Also, if somebody asks about certain combinations, you can find the answer. Friction fire abilities grow with time, memory doesn't. :(

Doc
 
Doc,
Thanks for this post it is GREAT!!

Does anyone have a photo or diagram of "Wrist locked against shin"? I don't quite get this step.
Ira
 
Sharp Eye said:
Doc,
Thanks for this post it is GREAT!!

Does anyone have a photo or diagram of "Wrist locked against shin"? I don't quite get this step.
Ira
Click to expand...

Thanks Ira. I'm going to check in my files to see if I have a picture but basically, you are bent over the fire board and your left arm (assuming you're right handed comes around your left leg holding the top bearing in your hand. The inside of your wrist is held tightly against your leg to help prevent lateral movement. - If I find a picture I will post it for you.

Doc
 
Great job Doc, and way to keep your composure, even with the back seat poster along for the ride.:D
 
Liam Ryan said:
Great job Doc, and way to keep your composure, even with the back seat poster along for the ride.:D
Click to expand...

Hey, he was asking for advice... ;)

Doc,

I have to ask - why do you shoulder the bottom of the spindle when I see most people leave the bottom alone and shoulder the top?

TF

EDIT:

I just went and built a kit essentially like the one you instructed Doc. Expereince is the best teacher. I was using Spruce on Spruce. A 1x6 I had purchased at Home Depot.

I got a GOOD coal the first time and thought that I had, essentially, and easy time of it - in comparison to my own trials. This tutorial delivers!

Thanks again.
 
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Talfuchre said:
Hey, he was asking for advice... ;)

Doc,

I have to ask - why do you shoulder the bottom of the spindle when I see most people leave the bottom alone and shoulder the top?

TF

EDIT:

I just went and built a kit essentially like the one you instructed Doc. Expereince is the best teacher. I was using Spruce on Spruce. A 1x6 I had purchased at Home Depot.

I got a GOOD coal the first time and thought that I had, essentially, and easy time of it - in comparison to my own trials. This tutorial delivers!

Thanks again.
Click to expand...


Hey TF,

If Liam was referring to you, my response is that I wanted critical input, pro and con and you were one of the few to step up to the plate and I really appreciate it. BTW, Liam, thanks for compliment.

We all like to hear our efforts are appreciated but in the greater scheme of things, input will hopefully serve to make things easier for those looking for that first coal.

You ask why I shoulder the bottom, but really the answer is that I thicken the upper part. Making the whole drill the diameter of the bottom would work well, but for the first time fire maker, especially, string slippage is a major concern so I feel that the increased traction is worth the drop in speed.

I have never seen anybody shoulder the upper end. What would be the purpose?

Doc
 
Doc: I think Liam was referring to me. I responded to your request for input. I hope it was received in the manner I meant it, which was to be helpful.
 
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