Solder vs. Epoxy for pinned SS bolster

Horsewright said:
I use to use a carbide tapered reamer and did for years. Then I broke like 3 in one day and they are pretty spendy little guys. Stuck a tapered punch in the hole and smacked it with a hammer. Voila. Still using the same punch 10 years later.
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Now that's a nifty idea!
 
This has evolved into one of the most interesting threads I've read in a while. Thanks to those who have posted.
 
Cushing H. said:
I am debating this myself. Have tried soldering on a couple blades ... and my biggest concern is clean up of residual solder around the front and back of the blade. You need to use a file, and that either does, or risks, scratching the finished blade surface. Epoxy (though i have not done this yet) is apparently very easy to get clean with a q-tip and alcohol (prior to setting of course). I talked to Horeswright about this, and he says he uses epoxy (JB Weld?), and has had no problems with it (and also says he has had soldered bolsters fail in the past). Based on that, My next attempts will definitely be with epoxy.

He also says he peens his mosaic pins, which i am still confused about ... but perhaps i misunderstood. Maybe Dave you can clarify that point here?
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If I use 3mm pin I use 3mm drill bits for hole in bolsters , of course hole in tang is 3mm .
1. Put bolster under tang in position and drill first hole on drill press .
2. Insert one pin through tang and bolster and drill other hole . 3. Glue two bolster with CA glue ,drill hole in other one .
4. Put pins in and finish front and back of bolster
5. Make taper on both bolster
6. Unglued them and clean
7. Put some long cure epoxy on tang and bolsters and insert pins
8. Peen them and wait epoxy to cure
9. Continue on with handle .............
For pin you taper bolster like on this drawing .....RIGHT way is top one ,very light taper .....don t make taper like bottom one .You don t want to make mushroom while peening ......pin must expand inside hole not on surface so when you sand all they will not be visible .....
cG1ipeF.png

PS . If I use 3mm pins I leave them 3mm. longer from both side before I peen them .
 
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This is a very good thread with several good points listed.

Natlek: Your drawing shows very clearly it's desired to have a "taper" to the hole rather than a "bevel".

Dave (Horsewright) mentioned a very good idea about using a tapered drift punch to make the taper for pin holes. I like that idea.

Adam Vigil has made good points for using Loctite Speedbonder rather than epoxy. I understand the Loctite works really good on metal to metal, and G10 type material to metal. Does it not adhere to wood very well? OR, is it the wood is weaker than the Speedbonder?

What about 324 vs 326? Is one LOTS better for our work than the other? Looks like I'll order these two:
(324) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P3L6VY/? and (7649) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FKFGSHE/ Is that the correct combination?
 
TWO-STEP NO MIX STRUCTURAL ACRYLIC ADHESIVES – when in contact with a liquid activator, these no mix materials cure rapidly at room temperature to a weather-resistant bond. Ideal for close fitting parts and where extended open time is required.
Loctite® 324TM SpeedbonderTM
Structural Adhesive
High Impact
Ideal for large gap applications. Offers the strength of an epoxy and the speed of an instant adhesive. Solvent resistant. Cures in minutes. Specially formulated for toughness and impact strength.
Loctite® 325TM SpeedbonderTM Structural Adhesive
High Temperature
Solvent resistant, activator-cured in minutes. Forms flexible bonds on gaps up to 0.40". Designed for severe environments and temperatures to 350°F.
Loctite® 326TM SpeedbonderTM Structural Adhesive
Fast Fixture
An all-purpose bonder. Offers the strength of an epoxy and the speed of an instant adhesive. Solvent resistant. Cures in minutes. Ideal for applications requiring fast fixturing.
Loctite® 330TM Depend® Adhesive
No-Mix
A no-mix high viscosity adhesive for a wide range of materials, including metal, wood, ferrite, ceramic, and plastic.
Loctite® 332TM Structural Adhesive
Severe Environment
An activator-cured, no mix adhesive that provides high temperature capability with thermal durability up to 400°F.
Loctite® 392TM Structural Adhesive
Fast Fixture/Magnet Bonder
Single component dual-cure acrylic. Provides fast fixture speed and tough reliable bonds.
 
K Ken H>

324 has 3-5 min set
326 sets IIRC in 60 seconds.

Folder makers use it on wood, bone, stag etc.
 
I just got some of the 324 in the mail today. I used it to stick some vulcanized fiber to the back of a SS bolster. This stuff is no joke. With in a few minutes it was solid as a rock. I can see this stuff making certain situations much easier and much quicker.
AVigil AVigil Thanks for your insight on this stuff!!
 
Jason Volkert said:
I just got some of the 324 in the mail today. I used it to stick some vulcanized fiber to the back of a SS bolster. This stuff is no joke. With in a few minutes it was solid as a rock. I can see this stuff making certain situations much easier and much quicker.
AVigil AVigil Thanks for your insight on this stuff!!
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Your welcome

I learned it from great knifemakers and everything I know really is from them

* Thin glue works better then to much, just make sure it has a thin layer overall. To much actually can cause problems curing.
 
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Oh I forgot an important piece of advice that from @Don Hanson III when using the speedbonder PUT THE ACTIVATOR on the metal and the adhesive on the bone or wood.

If you do put activator on the bone or wood be sure to spray liberally and let dry.

I have brushed stag with activator and you can watch it absorb and vanish. Spray covers it much more

Spraying the activator is better for me then brushing. A good amount of activator is needed and should be left to dry before using.

Some porous materials soak up the activator and it prohibits the cure.

So thin layer of adhesive and a generous sprayed amount of activator left to dry before putting together.
 
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Steve Beckwith said:
What do you use to clean up Loctite 324?
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Use a coth, just wipe it off. The ooze does not cure and removes easily. Of course I always wipe things down with alcohol all the time to keep clean.
 
Natlek's image pointed out something new makers often do. They make the hole through the tank a snug fit for the pin. If you don't put a good chamfer on the bottom of the bolster holes as in his drawing, the bolster may lift up off the tang as you peen the rivets. This is due to the pin expanding a bit at the tang and the excess metal pushing up on the bolster from the bottom. The harder you hammer the worse it gets.

cG1ipeF.png
 
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