- Joined
- Nov 30, 2000
- Messages
- 375
tony,
sal and the rest of the crew work very hard to ensure that their knives will function properly when used as designed. i dig with my merlin, could carve furniture to sticks, and the next time it sees my sharpmaker, it will still be like new. sal, being one of the more stringent of quality control advocates in the knife industry, runs rigorous tests and destroys these things regularly during them to ensure that the point of destruction is well beyond what a KNIFE should reasonably be used for. i suspect that if i send any of my (maybe even abused) knives back that i'd get a quick edge job and they'd come back (for a very small fee-less than the local flea market guy would likely charge). these implements are simply built too well to fail in general, and when there are reasonably discernable flaws in them, spyderco blows them out for cheap (there have been posts here in the pasts for models that worked fine but weren't quite up to the quality standard). if you replace a buck 1000 times, it's still a buck. there are some buck models that are unlikely to need replacement. spyderco tends to build knives that rarely require replacement, but if you try to pry or use the hammer limbchop test on MOST folding knives, you will find it failing, be it the 1st knife or the 1000th knife. my suggestion? buy a knife that is appropriate for the use you are going to give it. spydercos are meant to cut things. if the things you choose to cut are tough enough that you need a hammer to cut through them, then you're probably better off spending 3 or 4 times as much on a knife that is built to do as much, or if it pleases you, spending similar or lesser amounts of money on knives that will break down under regular use. your call. not intending to be cruel here, but if sal looks at a knife that he tested to his specs and offered under warranty to be used within said specs, that's the end of the road. i've put spydercos through car doors that look less beaten than that one (and a bloody shame, too, because i love the hawkbills!)-if the news changes (e.g. sal deciding for some reason that the hammerlike marks were representative of reasonable use), consider this entire message irrelevant. i wish you luck in finding a knife that functions and performs both like a spyderco and like a prybar/stonecutter/etc in a remotely comparable style and price range. please let me know should you find one. i'd have to betray my favorite brand, but i choose spydies because they offer what i want at a price i can justify. i have plenty of hammers/wrenches/pry or demolition bars/chunks of metal. i use them as intended as well, usually.
sal and the rest of the crew work very hard to ensure that their knives will function properly when used as designed. i dig with my merlin, could carve furniture to sticks, and the next time it sees my sharpmaker, it will still be like new. sal, being one of the more stringent of quality control advocates in the knife industry, runs rigorous tests and destroys these things regularly during them to ensure that the point of destruction is well beyond what a KNIFE should reasonably be used for. i suspect that if i send any of my (maybe even abused) knives back that i'd get a quick edge job and they'd come back (for a very small fee-less than the local flea market guy would likely charge). these implements are simply built too well to fail in general, and when there are reasonably discernable flaws in them, spyderco blows them out for cheap (there have been posts here in the pasts for models that worked fine but weren't quite up to the quality standard). if you replace a buck 1000 times, it's still a buck. there are some buck models that are unlikely to need replacement. spyderco tends to build knives that rarely require replacement, but if you try to pry or use the hammer limbchop test on MOST folding knives, you will find it failing, be it the 1st knife or the 1000th knife. my suggestion? buy a knife that is appropriate for the use you are going to give it. spydercos are meant to cut things. if the things you choose to cut are tough enough that you need a hammer to cut through them, then you're probably better off spending 3 or 4 times as much on a knife that is built to do as much, or if it pleases you, spending similar or lesser amounts of money on knives that will break down under regular use. your call. not intending to be cruel here, but if sal looks at a knife that he tested to his specs and offered under warranty to be used within said specs, that's the end of the road. i've put spydercos through car doors that look less beaten than that one (and a bloody shame, too, because i love the hawkbills!)-if the news changes (e.g. sal deciding for some reason that the hammerlike marks were representative of reasonable use), consider this entire message irrelevant. i wish you luck in finding a knife that functions and performs both like a spyderco and like a prybar/stonecutter/etc in a remotely comparable style and price range. please let me know should you find one. i'd have to betray my favorite brand, but i choose spydies because they offer what i want at a price i can justify. i have plenty of hammers/wrenches/pry or demolition bars/chunks of metal. i use them as intended as well, usually.
.
