Spyderco HAP40 Thread

Also, I reprofiled the stretch today and it reminded me why I love this steel so much. Reprofiled to 30 degrees on the SM with the diamond rods. Took all of 5 minutes and was screaming sharp off the diamonds. A minutes work on a microbevel with the mediums and it was whittling hair. Was having so much fun I couldn't stop. Took it all the way through the UF rods and it slices straight through hanging hairs on contact. Probably 8 minutes of work from diamond re-profile to laser beam. How could you not love this steel??
 
Surfingringo said:
Also, I reprofiled the stretch today and it reminded me why I love this steel so much. Reprofiled to 30 degrees on the SM with the diamond rods. Took all of 5 minutes and was screaming sharp off the diamonds. A minutes work on a microbevel with the mediums and it was whittling hair. Was having so much fun I couldn't stop. Took it all the way through the UF rods and it slices straight through hanging hairs on contact. Probably 8 minutes of work from diamond re-profile to laser beam. How could you not love this steel??
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Gringo...I know you've covered this elsewhere, but do you use anything more than the sharp maker or are all the available rods enough to get most things done? Appreciate your knowledge.
 
BilboBaggins said:
Gringo...I know you've covered this elsewhere, but do you use anything more than the sharp maker or are all the available rods enough to get most things done? Appreciate your knowledge.
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No, I don't use anything other than the sm rods. Honestly, given the results that can be attained so quickly with the sm, I can't really see why folks bother with strops and paste and what not. I don't have the setup and lighting to video it but trust me, even my thin hairs just fall in half as soon as i lay them on the edge...its silly. :p
 
I like that shape better, Lance. More organic. Wasn't a big fan of the first shape, but wasn't going to say anything if it was working well for you. ;)
 
SpeedHoles said:
I like that shape better, Lance. More organic. Wasn't a big fan of the first shape, but wasn't going to say anything if it was working well for you. ;)
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Hahaha, its ok man, you could have said something. I know it was fugly! That initial grind was made purely in the interest of adding functionality for my uses. I was hesitant to blend it because I didn't want to lose that flat bit of spine at the tip. I was careful to keep the radius of the curve short on the tip side when I was blending so I still have a nice long area of flat spine towards the tip that connects (lines up) with the top of the spine above the spyerhole. Kind of like a pm2 with the middle of the spine scooped out.
 
Surfingringo said:
Well, I did some more grinding on the spine of my stretch yesterday. I ground the hump down flat as soon as I got it and ended up with this.


It was perfectly functional but I never really liked the way the tip looked so I decided to smooth the angle out and blend it into the curve. This is what I ended up with. Excuse the scratches...I did some heavy corrosion resistance testing in my kayak and had to clean the rust off with some abrasive. Used heavier stuff than I would have liked but whatever. I'll polish it out one day...maybe.
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I liked the OG grind.. Thought it was sweet looking!
It almost lead me to do it. Then realized, I don't carry it a whole bunch, so didn't want to customize it just yet.
 
Looks good. Scratches don't bother me.

Next time you are taking pictures can you get a pic of the top of the blade. I woukd like to see what it looks like after grinding. Thanks.
 
came in today.


Color is growing on me.


20160321_173218_zpsqqmftgaj.jpg
 
johnny_boy02 said:
Looks good. Scratches don't bother me.

Next time you are taking pictures can you get a pic of the top of the blade. I woukd like to see what it looks like after grinding. Thanks.
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Hi Johnny, I'm too lazy to get a picture right now but it is very easy to make the spine look like it has a factory finish. I find that 180-220 grit paper will give you a finish that matches the factory grind well.
 
Surfingringo said:
Hi Johnny, I'm too lazy to get a picture right now but it is very easy to make the spine look like it has a factory finish. I find that 180-220 grit paper will give you a finish that matches the factory grind well.
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Haha, I like your honesty :)
 
Continually impressed by this steel. I broke down a bunch of cardboard with my DF2 in HAP40 to the point that it wouldn't even think about slicing paper when I was done. I took it to the Sharpmaker medium rods and began to microbevel on the 40dps setting. I noticed after forming a burr that there were quite a few microchips in the apex, but it still only took me around 15-20 minutes to get it cleaned up and back to popping hairs off my arm.

By contrast, I broke down the same amount of cardboard with my VG-10 Delica a while back and it absolutely destroyed the edge to the point that it took me nearly an hour to revive it. By that time I could visibly see the microbevel, which was in fact no longer "micro" at that point. After using it for a while I realized that configuration wasn't going to work well and ended up reprofiling it on the diamond rods.

HAP40 is great stuff!
 
I usually grind my spine down with 60 grit and then finish it with 220 and then 400. I agree with Lance that 220ish gives it a good finish but 400 does to. Either one looks good so take your pick. It does often create either a bur or a sharp edge along both sides of the spine. I usually just knock that down carefully with a brown sharpmaker rod.

I know you didn't ask me but I have done it a few times and this has been my experience. ;)
 
Snagged one Delica while passing the time at the mall...

P3230441_zps0wobq4zy.jpg


It's lighter than my waved Delica

P3230442_zpssf4s4qrt.jpg


But the blade tip is LEEKishly;) thin (Alox Cadet at the bottom for comparison)

P3230443_zps63qgnzbi.jpg
 
Thought I'd drag this thread back up to the top , and see what everyone's thoughts of Hap40 are now that the excitement and fanfare have died down .
It's been out in circulation for a while now , so what are some real world experiences with Hap40

Ken
 
I use the steel all the time and love it. I can't really say much about overall edge retention because I have so much fun keeping it crazy sharp I never let it get dull enough to tell. I know it does better than my Suberblue though.
 
My experience is very positive, as it is with all hss blades I've used.
My only gripe with spydercos version is low optimal hardness.
 
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